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Old 12-25-2015, 10:36 AM   #21
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The 1000 watt factory inverter usually powers about three outlets with two of them being the two televisions and perhaps one in the audio center to power the DVD player. As mentioned, the sub woofer is power on 12Vdc with NO switch, the propane leak detector at floor level is always on and the refrigerator and water heater use a little 12Vdc for the control circuitry. There may be a parasite power draw with the bed elevation mechanisms, the power awning circuitry or the electric stabilizers.
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Old 12-25-2015, 10:41 AM   #22
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First things first... get the batteries tested at an Interstate distributor.

Our new Airstream had immediate "battery retaining a charge" problem. The dealership in Denver, CO had this battery jumper setup to hook up a trailer to demonstrate that everything was working. Otherwise... pretty much dead batteries.

Interstate gave me credit on the standard batteries and a difference for the AGM Marine batteries which are sealed. Probably no better nor worse... but I depend on the "experts" to advise me as to what is best. I checked my battery charge and the inside meter reads 12.2 volts. I keep it plugged into 120v and have had the trailer sitting outside for a week now, unplugged from the 120v.

One of the two original batteries had one that was drawing the other down, they say. OK. Reading on the Forums, batteries are like repairing the memory chips in a computer. I just want something that I can depend upon.

Sears had these 60 month warranty batteries, Die Hard I believe. They usually died after four years, you paid the depreciation and paid extra for another... Die Hard in 48 months with a 60 month warranty. Great for business. Our 2008 Toyota Land Cruiser original battery is still going strong. Give me some of those next time.

Our 2006 Airstream with AGM Solar package batteries were still working fine when I bought a 2014 Airstream.

Bum battery or batteries. Interstate will hook them up to the tester and will know immediately. At the company store they will help you, but you have to "remove" them before they can do anything for you. I pulled the trailer onto their parking lot and was nice about it. Some retailer agreement about the factory reps not being able to do the exchange, I suppose. The RV dealership we inquired needed to do a number of things before anything could be done. So I went straight to the factory supplier, mentioned that this was a brand new trailer and I needed my batteries tested. They were decent about it. There was a pallet full of "dud" batteries that did not look very old in front.

Without Solar on our 2014, we are very... very, careful about our battery uses. Everyone points the finger at the trailer owner... but get them tested at a battery shop that sells Interstate batteries. The Airstream dealership probably prompted their demise. I know ours did... I saw them hook them up to the portable batteries and was too ignorant to know that these two batteries were already beyond recovery.

Good luck!
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Old 12-25-2015, 10:44 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsunami View Post
On an outside chance, check to make sure that the plunger for the emergence brake break-away, on the hitch is still plugged in. If by chance that it's out, it will drain the batteries quickly.
@tsunami: Ah, this is a good catch: I had pulled the breakaway wire and taken it with me while I was out running errands. I assumed it was a nice little way to keep someone from messing with the cord while I was away. I didn't realize it would draw down the battery -- I've put the pin back in now.
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Old 12-25-2015, 10:51 AM   #24
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Are the propane tank valves open?
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Old 12-25-2015, 10:55 AM   #25
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Are the propane tank valves open?
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Yep, they're open.
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Old 12-25-2015, 10:56 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by paulsingh View Post
@tsunami: Ah, this is a good catch: I had pulled the breakaway wire and taken it with me while I was out running errands. I assumed it was a nice little way to keep someone from messing with the cord while I was away. I didn't realize it would draw down the battery -- I've put the pin back in now.
You might have more issues with your brakes now that they have been energized by your batteries over such a long time. A missing break away plunger will use the trailer's batteries to stop the trailer in the event of a separation from your 7-way plug in your TV. The magnets in the trailer's electric brakes don't like to be energized for long durations. There is a distinct possibility that you have compromised your trailer brakes and possibly burned out the magnets!!!

First thing to have checked!!!
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Old 12-25-2015, 11:05 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paulsingh View Post
snip>>>I had pulled the breakaway wire and taken it with me while I was out running errands. I assumed it was a nice little way to keep someone from messing with the cord while I was away. <<<< snip.
It is possible you have damaged your brake system, if you left it like this for a long period of time. You might want to double check that everything works properly before getting back on the road.
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Old 12-25-2015, 11:08 AM   #28
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Originally Posted by A W Warn View Post
It is possible you have damaged your brake system, if you left it like this for a long period of time. You might want to double check that everything works properly before getting back on the road.
The breakaway switch was out/unplugged for ~18 hours. Is there something specific I should look for on the brakes before I pull out of this parking lot at the end of the weekend?
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Old 12-25-2015, 11:15 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paulsingh View Post
The breakaway switch was out/unplugged for ~18 hours. Is there something specific I should look for on the brakes before I pull out of this parking lot at the end of the weekend?

^^^^
What Lewster said in post prior to mine.
(he must have faster typing fingers than me ;-)
When you hook up to leave, check the brakes as you pull away. Even if you have brakes, it does not mean all wheels have brakes. Each magnet should be checked separately. The only way I would be comfortable (if it were me) would be to jack up each wheel, spin it manually, then apply the brakes to see if it stops the wheel.

edit: another option would be to apply the brakes on sand/dirt to see if they lock/slide and leave skid tracks.
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Old 12-25-2015, 11:15 AM   #30
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While the refrigerator will not run on the inverter, or 12 volt, it will keep checking to see if 120 volt is available while in auto mode. I use auto when moving between locations with shore power, but manually switch to manual gas mode when boon docking. I have been told by my dealer that the electrical consumption of the refrigerator is noticeable higher in auto mode.
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Old 12-25-2015, 11:19 AM   #31
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Ah, the real problem.

I accidentally pulled my break away switch pin and the brakes were on for 3 days. There was no damage to the magnets and they were powered full time. The trailer was plugged into line power, and the converter/charger kept the batteries up.

I doubt that you damaged anything in the brakes.
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Old 12-25-2015, 11:28 AM   #32
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don't forget to check to see it the storage compartment lights and dump valve light are on. it is easiest to check at night.
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Old 12-25-2015, 11:30 AM   #33
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When driving will the car's battery power the fridge? Not sure what setting to put the fridge on while driving.
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Old 12-25-2015, 11:39 AM   #34
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Every RV-er should have one of these on board:
7 Function Multimeter
Super cheap, yet reads the higher amperage loads that more expensive meters won't. Putting this in-line with your fused circuits will tell you where the offending power-draw is!
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Old 12-25-2015, 12:33 PM   #35
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Best bet is that the refrigerator thinks it has AC - manually switch to propane. Water heater would do it too. The furnace will run all night without running the batteries down to zip and your interior LED lights don't draw that much.
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Old 12-25-2015, 12:35 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drathaar View Post
Do they have 3 way refrigerators now? I was under the impression that only gas/AC was offered.
My previous Hi-Lo had a three way Dometic 'Fridge, that worked rather well, except when the 'thermister' crapped out as it occasionally did.

My new Airstream is a two way AC/Propane that seems to work pretty well too.
I'm kinda nervous though, about driving with the propane on to keep the 'fridge going.
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Old 12-25-2015, 01:02 PM   #37
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When driving will the car's battery power the fridge? Not sure what setting to put the fridge on while driving.
We keep ours on 'auto' so it can switch back and forth as needed.

Some 12 volt is provided through the umbilical cord to the trailer's batteries. The fridge takes its 12 volt power from the batteries to power the LP igniter and circuit board, not a whole lot. The fridge is actually running on propane. You can go several days on battery power for the fridge's needs. The TV will provide some charge for the batteries but it's best to start with them being fully charged.
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Old 12-25-2015, 01:23 PM   #38
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Battery problems

I had the same problem on my 2015 Flying Cloud. Turns out it was a damaged battery. Probably happened when plugged into shore power with the master switch set to "Use". In this mode the battery receives a constant 13.8V charge, enough to fry it if left on too long (a day or two). The Parallax charger that Airstream installs does not regulate charge voltage as the battery charges. To make matters worse, the batteries supplied by Airstream only carry a one year warranty.

Disconnect and check each battery. A defective battery will quickly lose its charge even without load and show significantly lower voltage than a good battery.

Replacement chargers are available that do regulate the voltage so the batteries cannot be overcharged. Not sure why the factory does not use one of them.
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Old 12-25-2015, 03:19 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Amsterdamer View Post
While the refrigerator will not run on the inverter, or 12 volt, it will keep checking to see if 120 volt is available while in auto mode. I use auto when moving between locations with shore power, but manually switch to manual gas mode when boon docking. I have been told by my dealer that the electrical consumption of the refrigerator is noticeable higher in auto mode.
Amsterdamer, I suspect that your dealer meant that when you are connected to shore power, and the fridge is in auto mode, it will actually use electricity from shore power vs. LP to cool and hence it is using more electricity than if it was in gas only mode whether or not you are plugged into shore power. On the other hand, if he/she meant that you will use more electricity when on auto mode vs. gas only when NOT plugged into shore power (i.e., using the 12 volts from the battery to power the computer) he/she does not know what he/she is talking about.
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Old 12-25-2015, 04:21 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paulsingh View Post
@tsunami: Ah, this is a good catch: I had pulled the breakaway wire and taken it with me while I was out running errands. I assumed it was a nice little way to keep someone from messing with the cord while I was away. I didn't realize it would draw down the battery -- I've put the pin back in now.
Four words.... Read the Owners Manual.

...as noted, a thorough check of the brake system is strongly advised.

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