New 25' FC Factory Solar or ??

[mcaslaon4449]

We will be purchasing a 2017 25' Flying Cloud & are questions if we should have Airstream factor install a solar unit, or have the dealer install it or buy a portable unit. To those of you who have solar what is you experience & preference? Also, if you went with a portable unit which brand & wattage would you recommend? Thank you.

[dkottum]

We have had the factory solar/AGM battery package since new in 2011 and are glad we have it. Expensive but nicely installed, as part of the purchase negotiations we got a deal on it. It has worked perfectly but not enough for anything but basic heating, water pump, and electronics.

I think the most efficient, inexpensive way to add solar to it is with a portable supplement than can be aimed directly to the sun's path or moved out of the shade in some campsites. Adding lots of panels to the roof is convenient but expensive, not as efficient. It really depends on individual needs and preferences.

[AirstreamCSH]

Having come out to a trailer with dead batteries after being unplugged for a week with nothing running on a 2-month old trailer, almost doesn't matter what you chose, you're going to want some kind of solar. We are leaning heavily towards the AM Solar option and wouldn't have chosen factory.

[Meeks]

If you have the option of having someone install RV solar locally contact them before buying your trailer to discuss. The system that Airstream and other RV manufacturers install is expensive for what you get and not very good component-wise.

[rodsterinfl]

I suggest that you read around on the Internet about solar systems. I learned quite a bit digging through stories. One particular was a solar engineer who was testing battery storage types (the article did not include lithium) and concluded that lead acid was the most efficient for cost/value which goes against the market. There are so many factors.

Consider that, in optimum conditions, roof panels will get about 5 hours of good sun with adjustment in sunny regions of the U.S. The other challenge is to figure out your power need with about a 20% loss added. Your battery bank will need to have amp hours that support the need (determines the size of bank needed) THEN you have to be able to recharge the consumption or offset it with the panels. I had some help from a solar engineer who had me do some homework- each device I used electrical requirements and how long I ran them, etc. to end up with a total amp hour need rating. I was actually a "light user".

I installed my system myself and used top brand controller and Renogy Panels. I used the company's wiring too. I have 350 watts of panel for a need of 265 watts- sounds odd I know. You will hear all kinds of comments on wiring, battery type, etc. just do your research. The Inverter is another important component that will need planning. The cost? Mine ran about $1000 but other peeps buy batteries costing more than that. Decide what you want to do when not hooked up to electric and how long you plan to be cordless. I recommend tilting roof panels and portable units for camping. You will not always camp in a clearing. The 100-watt Renogy suitcase is so popular that you will have to put your order in and wait.

[Mattirs]

I read a lot, shopped around, made my list then waited for the components to go on sale. Saved hundreds making my own portable system. Tested it in the driveway and it works great, waiting for my first real world test next month. BTW I have a liberal arts degree lol.

[rodsterinfl]

Way to go Mattirs!

The Renogy 100 watt suitcase is $280 with controller and battery cables.

[Trailbob]

My experience with dealer installed solar was "not so good". I suggest you purchase a portable unit and use it while you determine your actual needs. Then take your time and research RV solar before having it installed, either by a pro or yourself. Lots of great threads on this site. Also check out AM Solar and Handybob solar for more info.

When I was researching portable solar, the Renogy 100W system was reasonably priced and had great reviews. I don't own one, but it is the model I recommend to my friends who are looking for portable RV solar.

Good luck and enjoy your new AS!

[AnnArborBob]

We had the factory solar. It turned out to be an over-priced under-performing white elephant. We ripped it off and had Lewster install a system with equipment sourced from AM Solar. It was expensive, but way better than the factory system.

A much better alternative to the factory system if your budget is constrained are the ground mounted portable units. They come in various sizes. Get the biggest one you can carry. There are several good brands available on Amazon. They all seem to use similar components. Zamp is one brand that we've seen used a lot.

[AirstreamCSH]

Trailbob & AnnArborBob,
Was planning on doing the Zamp portable for precisely this reason. Would you recommend in hindsight upgrading the Form 24 batteries now while you figure out the panel solution or wait? I already know I don't want lithium under my bed so it will be whatever fits or can be made to fit on the outside.

[dkottum]

Since Bob M. and I got our factory solar systems, they have increased the panels from 106 watts to 160 watts total, and the battery size from two Lifeline AGM Grp 24 to two Lifeline AGM 27.

I still think its a good foundation system for travelers who use mostly campgrounds with hookups. For additional boon docking, the factory system is wired to plug in a portable Zamp suitcase up to 200 watts for up to 360 watts total, noting the portable panels will be more efficient than the roof panels when aimed to the sun.

[dkottum]

Originally Posted by AirstreamCSH

Trailbob & AnnArborBob,
Was planning on doing the Zamp portable for precisely this reason. Would you recommend in hindsight upgrading the Form 24 batteries now while you figure out the panel solution or wait? I already know I don't want lithium under my bed so it will be whatever fits or can be made to fit on the outside.

Just for your info, two Lifeline GPL-31XLT AGM batteries (250 AH total) will fit in the battery box, tight but they go in. I put them in this past fall, trimmed the steel battery box lip under the hinge, then reinstalled the hinge which covers the trimming. The two electrical cables between the batteries must be increased in size. Use Google for some forum threads on this if interested.

[AirstreamCSH]

Dkottum. What did you use to replace the charger to maintain those Lifeline batteries?

[Toasterlife]

Factory solar sounds good (and we have it) until experience teaches you that you are generally more comfortable parking in the shade, at which point your rooftop solar has just become way less efficient....

[charlesk]

We started with two 100 watt portable panels for our 23d. It was adequate for topping off the batteries for a long weekend. Still always mindful of what we were using and how much battery draw.

Started full-timing in June in a 30' Airstream. Had Lewester with AM Solar install 6 panels on the roof, new batteries and all the supporting electronics. COULD not be happier. Plenty of power and a great system.

AM Solar has a great website with all kinds of helpful information. Lewester is the ultimate professional who is willing to share his advise.

[dkottum]

Originally Posted by AirstreamCSH

Dkottum. What did you use to replace the charger to maintain those Lifeline batteries?

We put in a PD4655 unit this past spring before the two Lifeline AGM GPL-31XT. There's always something that costs more and works better, but this provides what we need for our travel needs ay a reasonable overall cost. Our original AGM's were still functioning well after 1200 nights travel, six years with the original factory charger and factory solar system.

[Robert12]

check out A & M Solar in Oregon. The best.

[Trailbob]

Originally Posted by AirstreamCSH

Trailbob & AnnArborBob,
Was planning on doing the Zamp portable for precisely this reason. Would you recommend in hindsight upgrading the Form 24 batteries now while you figure out the panel solution or wait? I already know I don't want lithium under my bed so it will be whatever fits or can be made to fit on the outside.

I think battery needs depend a lot on how you use your trailer. If you mostly stay at locations with shore power, then the stock battery configuration is fine. If you mostly boondock, then more battery capacity is better. We mostly boondock, and successfully used our stock group 24 Interstates for over 3 years. We had (minimal) solar, and used a generator when necessary. Last year we upgraded to two 220ah Lifeline 6v batteries for the added capacity. I'm happy with the upgrade.

Regarding portable panels, we use a 90w Overland (or similar name) portable panel that connects to the trailer mounted Bogart SC2030 controller via an Anderson SB50 connector and 30' of 8 ga marine romex. I chose that panel because it folds in three sections, is easy to store, and also works well with our truck mounted camper. It does a good job, but I sometimes think that it would be nice to have a larger portable panel just for the AS.

When I was shopping, I researched Zamp, and in fact tried to order one once (but they were unavailable at that time). If I bought a Zamp for an AS, I would probably get the 160w size. The main factor for me would be the balance between ease of storage and deployment vs charging ability.

[rodsterinfl]

I mentioned this but "how much" of a system is also determined by where you will mostly camp. The solar engineer mentioned this to me and I told him I would be camping all over but he said, "probably most in the southeast right?" I agreed. The more tilt required the more difficult it is for charging- larger system needed AND shorter number of hours of optimum solar time. Tilting the panel a greater degree means the sun's arc is lower in the sky and thus less time to charge. So, it matters where you camp most too. Solar panels should always face true south if you are in the northern hemisphere, Here is a chart to give you an idea of tilt from horizontal:

(4 season)

If your location latitude is between 25° and 50° (most of the US), then the best tilt angles are:

For summer, take the latitude, multiply by 0.92, and subtract 24.3 degrees.
For spring and autumn, take the latitude, multiply by 0.98, and subtract 2.3 degrees.
For winter, take the latitude, multiply by 0.89, and add 24 degrees.

Also solar hours per day:

http://solardirect.com/pv/systems/gt...sun-hours.html

You see, like Charlesk in the post in Washington state with the two 100 watt panels, he would get about half of the sun energy I do with the same panels if we camped in our home state.

[ckerrick]

We had our dealership (LA Airstream) install a 100W Go Power system on our 25' Intl in 2014, and have been happy with it over the last two years. That said, the stock Interstate Group 24 batteries were a continuing source of disappointment when boondocking, so we installed Trojan T-105 6 volt batteries and upgraded to a PD4655 converter for more efficient charging. I agree with others that a dealership installed solar system is more expensive than you would pay for perhaps a better quality system elsewhere, but we are happy because the Go Power system works well, was installed nicely, and we don't ever seem to run low on battery power any more. We intend to add add an expansion panel soon but may go with portable rather than rooftop to work around the issue of shady campsites.