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Old 07-21-2013, 09:42 PM   #29
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While I like the idea of simple- which the Portable offers. The security risk concerns me. Even with the plastic box that keeps honest people honest- a hammer or bolt cutter can slice thru my expensive cable.

I was looking at the 27FB and there is LOTS of space under the wardrobe. Also it appears I can get to below the inverter in the kitchen if I remove a few screws. However I am still not sure where to mount it.

Does anyone on the forum have a 27FB and has installed Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C? Where is the recommended place to install?

I don't have a 27FB but my advice would be to place it as close to your converter/ Power panel as possible. You'll be able to use the power cable that comes into the panel as input and a very short run back to the panel.
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Old 07-21-2013, 11:41 PM   #30
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It looks like the only place to install it would be to take out the converter below the fuse box and the space behind. Might be tight, however there is not electric below the wardrobe for inline on the 2012 27fb. If i start digging around below the fuse box, and find there is not enough room i will go the inline route. However this looks like the best spot, and maybe I can just attach to the side 30amp input, and leave the front input for my gennies.
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Old 07-21-2013, 11:48 PM   #31
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It looks like the only place to install it would be to take out the converter below the fuse box and the space behind. Might be tight, however there is not electric below the wardrobe for inline on the 2012 27fb. If i start digging around below the fuse box, and find there is not enough room i will go the inline route. However this looks like the best spot, and maybe I can just attach to the side 30amp input, and leave the front input for my gennies.
That is what I did. I figure my Honda is much cleaner power than I get from the pedestal. My generator input bypasses the EMS.
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Old 07-22-2013, 07:16 AM   #32
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This has happened to me. You pull into a campground and hook up. Your surge guard will not let power pass because it says the polarity is reversed.

At that point your dead. If you have a portable unit you can just unplug it and not use it. Essenually bypassing it. If its built in you will have no power at all and cannot read the screen on it if its buried under a cabnet.

Reverse polarity is not good for flat screen TVs and AC but you can still use a toaster, fridge and charge the batterys.
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Old 07-22-2013, 07:35 AM   #33
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On our 25FB, the inverter and power switch (front or rear power points) are located inside the bed support frame at the front side inside of the bed support and on the hinge end of the mattress support plywood panel. To access that space, the mattress has to be removed and the mattress plywood support has to be removed in order to have some space to work in that electrical area as there is virtually no work space between the front aluminum wall and the bed frame at floor level (perhaps 4" wide space along bed support frame).

One can purchase a large steel hose clamp with an eye and attach that with a small chain to the surge protector and then to the power post. If a thief wants the device badly enough, they can take the the entire power cord from the side of the tailer connection to the power pedestal.

From my days as an electrician, I have a pocket sized GFI and polarity tester that today costs around $20 at electrical supply houses. I have a bucket full of plug adapters any way, so I can take the standard 15 amp adapter to either 30 or 50 amp and plug it into the power pedestal and verify it is properly wired before connecting the surge unit or the trailer. If one is really concerned, a $20 voltage tester can verify the 120Vac vs 240Vac issue before the polarity tester is plugged in.

I have all the gear I was planning to install in the 25FB (like the switch with real contacts to select either the front or rear power plus, but not both) but that will not happen now as we have a single power point for 50 amp service in the ordered 27FB.

I plan to photograph the building of our unit in January and will be watching for all these "issue" areas presented in many of the forum threads so I can share these hidden areas in the future.
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Old 07-22-2013, 10:53 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by Bigventure View Post
This has happened to me. You pull into a campground and hook up. Your surge guard will not let power pass because it says the polarity is reversed.

At that point your dead. If you have a portable unit you can just unplug it and not use it. Essenually bypassing it. If its built in you will have no power at all and cannot read the screen on it if its buried under a cabnet.

Reverse polarity is not good for flat screen TVs and AC but you can still use a toaster, fridge and charge the batterys.

I have the built in unit. If I decided to risk putting the reverse polarity power to my rig all i would have to do is plug it into the generator outlet on the front of the trailer, bypassing the protection unit. Best of both worlds.
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Old 07-22-2013, 12:51 PM   #35
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Quote:
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Just sayin'....

An issue to consider for the permanently mounted box. A previous poster mentioned that the internal boards can be replaced if there is a surge. Great. If the boards are fried, then one is working in an unlighted, no power available unit somewhere else than at home. That would mean carrying several spare boards sets all the time and lots of flashlights...

The same outfit sells an external unit that also functions as a sacrificial anode in case of a surge. If it does it's job, the trailer wiring is still functional from a generator or different power pedestal. While not inexpensive , a spare would keep the lights on if a better source of power could be found.

Thus the need for an inexpensive circuit tester to be used first before plugging in any power cable or surge protector.
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This works well for us...



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Old 07-22-2013, 02:10 PM   #36
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Just ordered the same unit last week, Bob. Their site lists 2 sources, I'm sure there are others. I went with TechnoRV - with free shipping they beat another lower price - got mine for $240. Should get it tomorrow. Might buy a spare for kicks and giggles should it ever be called on to do its job and sacrifice itself in the process! :-)
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Old 07-23-2013, 12:59 AM   #37
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I have the built in unit. If I decided to risk putting the reverse polarity power to my rig all i would have to do is plug it into the generator outlet on the front of the trailer, bypassing the protection unit. Best of both worlds.
This is also the reason I decided to go with the internal unit. I can easily bypass the unit via the 2nd pug input on the front of the trailer.
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Old 07-23-2013, 06:54 AM   #38
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Unfortunately for those units with 50amp service (usually the factory second A/C causes this event), there is no "additional" generator plug socket in the front of the coach. Thus these units must contend not only with the usual polarity issues, but also verify that they in fact have 120Vac and not 240Vac on the pedestal.

I wonder if clocks and toasters are twice as fast with twice the voltage?
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Old 07-23-2013, 10:30 AM   #39
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The Progressive EMS tests for 240 and prevents it from connecting.
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Old 07-23-2013, 11:17 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by Bigventure View Post
This has happened to me. You pull into a campground and hook up. Your surge guard will not let power pass because it says the polarity is reversed.

At that point your dead. If you have a portable unit you can just unplug it and not use it. Essenually bypassing it. If its built in you will have no power at all and cannot read the screen on it if its buried under a cabnet.

Reverse polarity is not good for flat screen TVs and AC but you can still use a toaster, fridge and charge the batterys.

I had forgotten, because I hadn't had to use it, but the Progressive EMS has a bypass switch which turns off the computer that analyzes the incoming power allowing you to power the trailer. The surge protection is NOT bypassed and continues to protect your stuff.

FWIW I think this unit is the best cheapest insurance available.
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