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jasperkins · 07-18-2013, 05:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by daveswenson

I'm not sure on yours. On mine I mounted it right next to the power panel/ converter under the lounge.

I believe the converter is under the master bed in the front of the 27FB. I will look for a spot to mount it there- prior to entering the converter.

Scott J-24 · 07-19-2013, 12:28 AM

In our 27FB the converter is under the curbside pantry behind the circuit breaker / fuse panel. Our factory installed 600watt inverter is mounted curbside under the bed and accessed via the forward storage compartment hatch and under the lifted bed platform.

RAH · 07-20-2013, 09:00 PM

I'm in the same boat as jasperkins - ready to go out and buy the hardwired surge/voltage protection unit from Progressive industries. I've downloaded the PDF and the installation instructions left me a little unsure if I want to try this myself. In my FC 30 the fuse panel/converter etc are below the fridge mid coach. Inverter is all the way at the front by the couch - I can't imagine putting anything up there. Any advice on where to start if I want to install myself?

While I can hire a lot of things done I am getting to the point after 4 months of ownership that I would rather do everything myself - better than giving someone else the chance to mess up the AS!

daveswenson · 07-20-2013, 09:24 PM

If you can get to the back of the converter where the shore power line comes in to the transfer relay and you have room to mount the unit it is really pretty easy. Take the shore power line out of the relay. Connect it to the EMS. Use a piece of 10/3 wire and connect the EMS back to the relay.

Easy.

switz · 07-21-2013, 04:47 AM

Just sayin'....

An issue to consider for the permanently mounted box. A previous poster mentioned that the internal boards can be replaced if there is a surge. Great. If the boards are fried, then one is working in an unlighted, no power available unit somewhere else than at home. That would mean carrying several spare boards sets all the time and lots of flashlights...

The same outfit sells an external unit that also functions as a sacrificial anode in case of a surge. If it does it's job, the trailer wiring is still functional from a generator or different power pedestal. While not inexpensive , a spare would keep the lights on if a better source of power could be found.

Thus the need for an inexpensive circuit tester to be used first before plugging in any power cable or surge protector.

SteveSueMac · 07-21-2013, 05:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by switz

Thus the need for an inexpensive circuit tester to be used first before plugging in any power cable or surge protector.

I ordered the portable version mostly because I have a very healthy respect for electricity (about which I know nothing) and feel pretty confident about plugging it in at the post :-)

I was under the impression it tests for everything you would test with your circuit tester before sending power to the trailer. If so, why do you recommend a circuit tester before plugging in the portable version? Or - are you recommending a circuit tester before plugging in a dedicated surge protector? Thanks!

RAH · 07-21-2013, 12:01 PM

OK, I think I am going with the Portable "at the post" model. I installed a water pump this morning and while it went well and I won't say it pushed me to my limits in electrical skills (two wires!), I think I will stop here. A man has got to know his limitations. Rich

jasperkins · 07-21-2013, 07:10 PM

While I like the idea of simple- which the Portable offers. The security risk concerns me. Even with the plastic box that keeps honest people honest- a hammer or bolt cutter can slice thru my expensive cable.

I was looking at the 27FB and there is LOTS of space under the wardrobe. Also it appears I can get to below the inverter in the kitchen if I remove a few screws. However I am still not sure where to mount it.

Does anyone on the forum have a 27FB and has installed Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C? Where is the recommended place to install?

daveswenson · 07-21-2013, 08:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jasperkins

While I like the idea of simple- which the Portable offers. The security risk concerns me. Even with the plastic box that keeps honest people honest- a hammer or bolt cutter can slice thru my expensive cable.

I was looking at the 27FB and there is LOTS of space under the wardrobe. Also it appears I can get to below the inverter in the kitchen if I remove a few screws. However I am still not sure where to mount it.

Does anyone on the forum have a 27FB and has installed Progressive Industries EMS-HW30C? Where is the recommended place to install?

I don't have a 27FB but my advice would be to place it as close to your converter/ Power panel as possible. You'll be able to use the power cable that comes into the panel as input and a very short run back to the panel.

jasperkins · 07-21-2013, 10:41 PM

It looks like the only place to install it would be to take out the converter below the fuse box and the space behind. Might be tight, however there is not electric below the wardrobe for inline on the 2012 27fb. If i start digging around below the fuse box, and find there is not enough room i will go the inline route. However this looks like the best spot, and maybe I can just attach to the side 30amp input, and leave the front input for my gennies.

daveswenson · 07-21-2013, 10:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jasperkins

It looks like the only place to install it would be to take out the converter below the fuse box and the space behind. Might be tight, however there is not electric below the wardrobe for inline on the 2012 27fb. If i start digging around below the fuse box, and find there is not enough room i will go the inline route. However this looks like the best spot, and maybe I can just attach to the side 30amp input, and leave the front input for my gennies.

That is what I did. I figure my Honda is much cleaner power than I get from the pedestal. My generator input bypasses the EMS.

Bigventure · 07-22-2013, 06:16 AM

This has happened to me. You pull into a campground and hook up. Your surge guard will not let power pass because it says the polarity is reversed.

At that point your dead. If you have a portable unit you can just unplug it and not use it. Essenually bypassing it. If its built in you will have no power at all and cannot read the screen on it if its buried under a cabnet.

Reverse polarity is not good for flat screen TVs and AC but you can still use a toaster, fridge and charge the batterys.

switz · 07-22-2013, 06:35 AM

On our 25FB, the inverter and power switch (front or rear power points) are located inside the bed support frame at the front side inside of the bed support and on the hinge end of the mattress support plywood panel. To access that space, the mattress has to be removed and the mattress plywood support has to be removed in order to have some space to work in that electrical area as there is virtually no work space between the front aluminum wall and the bed frame at floor level (perhaps 4" wide space along bed support frame).

One can purchase a large steel hose clamp with an eye and attach that with a small chain to the surge protector and then to the power post. If a thief wants the device badly enough, they can take the the entire power cord from the side of the tailer connection to the power pedestal.

From my days as an electrician, I have a pocket sized GFI and polarity tester that today costs around $20 at electrical supply houses. I have a bucket full of plug adapters any way, so I can take the standard 15 amp adapter to either 30 or 50 amp and plug it into the power pedestal and verify it is properly wired before connecting the surge unit or the trailer. If one is really concerned, a $20 voltage tester can verify the 120Vac vs 240Vac issue before the polarity tester is plugged in.

I have all the gear I was planning to install in the 25FB (like the switch with real contacts to select either the front or rear power plus, but not both) but that will not happen now as we have a single power point for 50 amp service in the ordered 27FB.

I plan to photograph the building of our unit in January and will be watching for all these "issue" areas presented in many of the forum threads so I can share these hidden areas in the future.

daveswenson · 07-22-2013, 09:53 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bigventure

This has happened to me. You pull into a campground and hook up. Your surge guard will not let power pass because it says the polarity is reversed.

At that point your dead. If you have a portable unit you can just unplug it and not use it. Essenually bypassing it. If its built in you will have no power at all and cannot read the screen on it if its buried under a cabnet.

Reverse polarity is not good for flat screen TVs and AC but you can still use a toaster, fridge and charge the batterys.

I have the built in unit. If I decided to risk putting the reverse polarity power to my rig all i would have to do is plug it into the generator outlet on the front of the trailer, bypassing the protection unit. Best of both worlds.

ROBERT CROSS · 07-22-2013, 11:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by switz

Just sayin'....

An issue to consider for the permanently mounted box. A previous poster mentioned that the internal boards can be replaced if there is a surge. Great. If the boards are fried, then one is working in an unlighted, no power available unit somewhere else than at home. That would mean carrying several spare boards sets all the time and lots of flashlights...

The same outfit sells an external unit that also functions as a sacrificial anode in case of a surge. If it does it's job, the trailer wiring is still functional from a generator or different power pedestal. While not inexpensive , a spare would keep the lights on if a better source of power could be found.

Thus the need for an inexpensive circuit tester to be used first before plugging in any power cable or surge protector.

^
X2

This works well for us...

Bob

SteveSueMac · 07-22-2013, 01:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ROBERT CROSS

^
X2

This works well for us...

Bob

Just ordered the same unit last week, Bob. Their site lists 2 sources, I'm sure there are others. I went with TechnoRV - with free shipping they beat another lower price - got mine for $240. Should get it tomorrow. Might buy a spare for kicks and giggles should it ever be called on to do its job and sacrifice itself in the process! :-)

jasperkins · 07-22-2013, 11:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by daveswenson

I have the built in unit. If I decided to risk putting the reverse polarity power to my rig all i would have to do is plug it into the generator outlet on the front of the trailer, bypassing the protection unit. Best of both worlds.

This is also the reason I decided to go with the internal unit. I can easily bypass the unit via the 2nd pug input on the front of the trailer.

switz · 07-23-2013, 05:54 AM

Unfortunately for those units with 50amp service (usually the factory second A/C causes this event), there is no "additional" generator plug socket in the front of the coach. Thus these units must contend not only with the usual polarity issues, but also verify that they in fact have 120Vac and not 240Vac on the pedestal.

I wonder if clocks and toasters are twice as fast with twice the voltage?

daveswenson · 07-23-2013, 09:30 AM

The Progressive EMS tests for 240 and prevents it from connecting.

daveswenson · 07-23-2013, 10:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bigventure

This has happened to me. You pull into a campground and hook up. Your surge guard will not let power pass because it says the polarity is reversed.

At that point your dead. If you have a portable unit you can just unplug it and not use it. Essenually bypassing it. If its built in you will have no power at all and cannot read the screen on it if its buried under a cabnet.

Reverse polarity is not good for flat screen TVs and AC but you can still use a toaster, fridge and charge the batterys.

I had forgotten, because I hadn't had to use it, but the Progressive EMS has a bypass switch which turns off the computer that analyzes the incoming power allowing you to power the trailer. The surge protection is NOT bypassed and continues to protect your stuff.

FWIW I think this unit is the best cheapest insurance available.