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Old 06-28-2005, 12:02 PM   #71
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Thanks Dave---I'll give this a try over the weekend. When I took the battery to the auto parts store, they told me that they can't use the battery tester on deep cycle batteries. The machine will short out the plates.

They did suggest that I charge the battery overnight, let it sit for a few hours and than test it for voltage. This lets us see if the battery is holding its charge. Does this sound right to you guys?

Mitch
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Old 06-28-2005, 01:01 PM   #72
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Battery testing

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Originally Posted by Swanny
Thanks Dave---I'll give this a try over the weekend. When I took the battery to the auto parts store, they told me that they can't use the battery tester on deep cycle batteries. The machine will short out the plates.

They did suggest that I charge the battery overnight, let it sit for a few hours and than test it for voltage. This lets us see if the battery is holding its charge. Does this sound right to you guys?

Mitch
With the overnite charge test, be sure to use a good digital voltmeter. The voltage difference between a charged and discharged battery with no load is pretty small. If you look on the web, you should be able to find a table of voltage vs. percent charged for deep cycle or automotive lead-acid batteries.

I would still do the simple tests on the univolt to confirm that it can power the systems without the battery in the circuit. Remember that a typical univolt only puts out 55 amps or so. You might check the wattage of the lamps and other 12v circuit items like the water pump and any fans. Light bulbs can add up.
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Old 06-28-2005, 02:13 PM   #73
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Univolt tests

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Originally Posted by sander17

Disconnect the battery and see if the converter will run the lights by itself. The radio will have a lot of noise, but it will test if the converter is putting out current.
What does it mean if the converter will NOT run the lights or radio by itself?

Marshall
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Old 06-28-2005, 02:25 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marshall
What does it mean if the converter will NOT run the lights or radio by itself?

Marshall
Basically it means you have a problem. It is time to start tracing the DC voltage. Start at the converter output. If you do not have voltage there, disconnect both leads and measure again. If you now have voltage, there is a short in the wiring. If the converter has 115VAC input power but no DC output, then you know the culprit. Either replace it or fix it. There are several threads about fixing the old ferroresonant univolts. The newer switching power supply converters are very complicated circuits and unless it has a blown internal fuse, you are probably better off replacing them.

If you have DC at the converter, but not at the devices, look for bad fuses that may look ok but are open, or pinched wires that have been cut by a sharp edge, loose connections, connector corrosion, or mice damage.

Hopefully your diagnosis will not involve belly pan removal...........
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Old 06-28-2005, 03:25 PM   #75
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I am reasonably converse with electronics, and I too have a Univolt converter.
What it is is a large 6 volt transformer. with a voltage doubling circuit to give you 12Vpulsing dc. Your battery is the filter circuit.
Voltage doubling is facilitated with an AC capacitor in circuit. If your unit gives low voltage or does not work you could have .....Bad rectifiers (diodes) fuses.....or the capacitor has failed. It is a very simple circuit and should last and last. IT IS NOT A SMART CHARGER. Which could be expensive and cause much problems.
Have someone remove the unit and check for bad diodes, and a bad cpacitor(note I did not call it a condenser) If the capacitor is faulty it can be purchased at a Motor repair shop. (used for motor starting capacitors). 5 MFDs will work. Simply wire it in and hook it back up.
The capacitor should cost you less than $10.00.
The diodes can be checked with a simple Voltmeter in The OHMS SCALE.in the low scale. RX1.
Putting the leads across the diode you should be a reading in one direction...Reverse the leads and you should not get a reading (if the diode is good.) If it reads in both direction the diode is shorted and if no reading it is open circuit. simply replace the diodes that are bad and VOILA you are an Electronics expert. Remeber simple is better.
If you need further information please E-Mail me. Before Oct 20th
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Old 06-29-2005, 12:27 AM   #76
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I thought I had a bad univolt. I pluged the trailer into camp power on a 30amp plug. The battery had to be charged because the univolt did not work. I finally found the 30amp plug in did not work. I pluged into 110volt plug with an adapter plug and it works now. I felt so stupid.
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Old 06-29-2005, 02:33 AM   #77
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Rae, What model is your Univolt? Do you have a schematic for it?
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Old 06-30-2005, 12:41 AM   #78
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can I pop a question here?

Where do I post or search to find a circuit board for the front control center? I have a 70 Ambassador and I think the board is toast. I want to replace it.
the part # is Airstream 05110

Sorry to inturrupt, and thanks for your time.
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Old 06-30-2005, 08:41 AM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FrenchBern
Rae, What model is your Univolt? Do you have a schematic for it?
I do not have a schematic, and please don't ask me to with much pain get the unit out.

I can and will draw a simple voltage circuit for you which should suffice for your needs..
There is very little in the circuit. Give me you E-Mail addr. and I will draw and mail it to you

rae

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Old 06-30-2005, 10:18 AM   #80
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Albert.

Try a salvage yard.

Andy
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Old 06-30-2005, 11:24 AM   #81
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Circuit Board

Andy, are you suggesting looking in a salvage yard for this particular board? Seems like a needle in a haystack. You must also be saying that people dont have these available? Airstream, you, AS owners?
Is it worth getting it repaired, or should I live with the gauges not working? It sounds like most people live with funky gauges.
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Old 06-30-2005, 03:59 PM   #82
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Albert.

That panel replacemnt has been gone for maybe 25 years.

You might be able to salvage that panel from a wrecked unit, from some salvage yard.

That's about the best you can do.

Andy
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Old 07-02-2005, 12:31 PM   #83
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Question Univolt Update

Okay everyone here's what I've found with all of the tests. I have 12.5 volts at the battery power terminals leading from the converter, with the battery disconnnected. I'm assuming that this is the output from the converter.

With the battery disconnected and the converter plugged in, there is sufficient 'juice' to run the water pump, radio, fans and overhead lights. I also have checked all of my fuses, so my assumption is that the battery is shot.

Since I had a spare in my garage, I've gone ahead and put it into the AS. My question to the group is: Do I have the correct output to the batter (12.5 volts)? I thought I read somewhere that it needed to be over 13 volts to keep the battery charged.

Mitch
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Old 07-02-2005, 12:40 PM   #84
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Unitvolt

If your Univolt is putting out the 12+ volts under the load you indicate, there is nothing wrong with the supply. I think you battery is tired and needs to be retired.

Rae
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