Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
 
Old 06-16-2005, 09:45 AM   #57
Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
 
Inland RV Center, In's Avatar
 
Corona , California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,499
Images: 1
Albert.

You cannot compare city power voltage (120 VAC) and 12 volts DC.

But you can compare wattage.

As Safari Tim pointed out, at 100 % efficiency the Airstream univolt consumes 660 watts of power, only if it is charging at maximum. If it is charging less than maximum, then likewise the consumed wattage goes down.

We are not allowed to post prices on anything we sell. Therefore I have PM'd you the cost.

Andy
__________________

__________________
Inland RV Center, In is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-16-2005, 10:25 AM   #58
3 Rivet Member
 
albert's Avatar
 
1970 29' Ambassador
1959 22' Flying Cloud
1957 26' Overlander
Reno , Nevada
Join Date: May 2003
Posts: 233
Images: 17
Blog Entries: 1
Send a message via AIM to albert Send a message via Yahoo to albert
thanks guys. I get it now. Sure hope wiring it together will be that simple!
__________________

__________________
albert is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-16-2005, 10:36 AM   #59
Rivet Master
Airstream Dealer
 
Inland RV Center, In's Avatar
 
Corona , California
Join Date: Feb 2002
Posts: 16,499
Images: 1
Albert.

One end plugs in to the city power outlet.

The 12 volt wires, are this one, that one, and the other one.............

Not really.

One connection goes to 12 volts positive.

One connection goes to negative.

One connection goes to ground.

This allows you to use the original fuse panel.

Andy
__________________
Inland RV Center, In is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2005, 07:13 AM   #60
3 Rivet Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 159
To anyone who might be interested,
My Univolt model 35 (1970 overlander and also a friends 1971 overlander) has a nominal output of 13.5 volts because of the series voltage regulator inside. If the regulator is shorted the output will be close to the winding voltage which is 17 volts and will cook and dry up any 12 volts battery. Simple check to find out condition. With or without a battery and with different loading, the univolt output should read about 13.5 volts which will never boil a battery unless the acid level is low nor will it overcharge. I have a picture of the regulator board but I am not able to paste it. Is a 98Kb pic too big?
__________________
Live and LET live
FrenchBern is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2005, 07:52 AM   #61
4 Rivet Member
 
sander17's Avatar
 
1996 28' Excella
Okemos , Michigan
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 305
Images: 42
Thumbs up Univolt guts

Quote:
Originally Posted by FrenchBern
To anyone who might be interested,
My Univolt model 35 (1970 overlander and also a friends 1971 overlander) has a nominal output of 13.5 volts because of the series voltage regulator inside. If the regulator is shorted the output will be close to the winding voltage which is 17 volts and will cook and dry up any 12 volts battery. Simple check to find out condition. With or without a battery and with different loading, the univolt output should read about 13.5 volts which will never boil a battery unless the acid level is low nor will it overcharge. I have a picture of the regulator board but I am not able to paste it. Is a 98Kb pic too big?
That is surprising that the '70 and '71 univolts had a voltage regulator in them. My '79 just had a couple of diodes forming a half wave bridge on the secondary of the ferroresonant transformer and producing rectified, but unregulated power. I would be interested in your photo showing how they used a 3-terminal voltage regulator in the circuit. (V(un-reg), V(reg), Common)
__________________
Dave
Okemos, MI
T.V.:'05 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 Quad Cab Cummins
AIR#2276
sander17 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2005, 12:51 PM   #62
Rivet Master
 
Lumatic's Avatar

 
1971 25' Tradewind
1993 34' Excella
Currently Looking...
Estancia , New Mexico
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,642
Images: 16
Blog Entries: 1
The Univolt on my 73 seems to only be charging at 7-8 volts. Which will cause my 12 v system to eventually shut down until I charge the battery with the tow vehicle or a seperate battery charger. What is the likely cause and is it possible to, or worth repairing?
__________________
Lumatic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2005, 01:56 PM   #63
4 Rivet Member
 
sander17's Avatar
 
1996 28' Excella
Okemos , Michigan
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 305
Images: 42
Thumbs down Fixing Univolts

Quote:
Originally Posted by Marshall
The Univolt on my 73 seems to only be charging at 7-8 volts. Which will cause my 12 v system to eventually shut down until I charge the battery with the tow vehicle or a seperate battery charger. What is the likely cause and is it possible to, or worth repairing?
Likely cause: Usually it is the capacitors that fail in these beasts.
Possible?: yes
worth repairing? usually $10 vs. $180 for a new converter

Now the big question: Are you confident working on electrical equipment with LETHAL voltages present? Are you experienced with soldering, riveting the case, using a VOM to test diodes and capacitors?

IF NOT, THEN DON'T DO IT!

A new unit will have a normal 115 VAC cord and the only wires to be hooked up are low voltage (13.5 or so volts).
__________________
Dave
Okemos, MI
T.V.:'05 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 Quad Cab Cummins
AIR#2276
sander17 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2005, 06:37 PM   #64
3 Rivet Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 159
Please someone help me and tell me how to post my picture of the voltage regulator board in the Univolt for Sander17 and anyone else. Why can't I just copy and paste it in the text?
__________________
Live and LET live
FrenchBern is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2005, 07:00 PM   #65
Just a member
 
thenewkid64's Avatar
 
1978 28' Argosy 28
Tampa Bay , Florida
Join Date: Mar 2002
Posts: 4,539
Images: 21
Send a message via AIM to thenewkid64 Send a message via Yahoo to thenewkid64 Send a message via Skype™ to thenewkid64
Quote:
Originally Posted by FrenchBern
Please someone help me and tell me how to post my picture of the voltage regulator board in the Univolt for Sander17 and anyone else. Why can't I just copy and paste it in the text?

Because it is a different file type........


After you have typed your post scroll down on the screen and you will see a box labeled Manage attachment. Then browse to the picture and upload. Wait for it to finish before closing the window. Once the files upload you can close the window and post.....
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	upload button.jpg
Views:	76
Size:	40.9 KB
ID:	13013  
__________________
Brett G
WBCCI #5501 AIR # 49
-------------------------
1978 Argosy 28 foot Motorhome

Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something. -- Plato


thenewkid64 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-24-2005, 07:50 PM   #66
3 Rivet Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 159
God bless you Thenewkid64 for your help. I was using quick reply instead of post reply.

Here's the picture of the regulator board in the model 35 univolt built in 1970.
Attached Images
  
__________________
Live and LET live
FrenchBern is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-25-2005, 09:31 AM   #67
Rivet Master
 
Lumatic's Avatar

 
1971 25' Tradewind
1993 34' Excella
Currently Looking...
Estancia , New Mexico
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 6,642
Images: 16
Blog Entries: 1
Univolt Capacitors, etc.

Quote:
Originally Posted by sander17
Now the big question: Are you confident working on electrical equipment with LETHAL voltages present? Are you experienced with soldering, riveting the case, using a VOM to test diodes and capacitors?

IF NOT, THEN DON'T DO IT!
Thanks, I can handle the soldering and riveting. I'll try and find a volunteer who likes playing with electricity to help with the technical stuff.

Marshall
__________________
Lumatic is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-27-2005, 08:19 PM   #68
4 Rivet Member
 
1990 34' Excella
Windcrest , Texas
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 248
Images: 5
How do you tell if its the converter or the battery?

Hello everyone. I'm now experiencing the joy of 12vdc operation .

Anyway, I charged my deep cycle battery a couple of weeks ago and put it in the AS. After working in the trailer for a few days and running lights, radio and fans, I noticed that when I turned on the 'final' interior light, the radio would turn off. Once I turned the extra light off, the radio would kick back on.

So here's an AS with a humming converter (the original by the looks of it) and I'm not sure which item is the problem. Per your great advice, I've already checked the fuses on the panel and they all seem to be okay.

Any direction you can provide would be awesome. Thanks again.

Mitch
__________________
Swanny is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2005, 03:56 AM   #69
3 Rivet Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2005
Posts: 159
Sorry for the small picture. The 100k picture is small and the 33 k is big. Can't figure that one out. Fixing the Univolt is no problem if I can find the schematic for the voltage regulator board and a parts list. The only voltage that could be lethal is the 120 volts ac.
If anyone happens to be in the western SC, I'll be glad to check your system for free. So there you go Marshall. When I go camping I am usually bored and go around fixing electrical problems. So far 4 trips, 4 request, and four fixes.
I am trying to post that pic again. Here goes.
Attached Images
 
__________________
Live and LET live
FrenchBern is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-28-2005, 08:26 AM   #70
4 Rivet Member
 
sander17's Avatar
 
1996 28' Excella
Okemos , Michigan
Join Date: Apr 2003
Posts: 305
Images: 42
Early diagnosis

Quote:
Originally Posted by Swanny
Hello everyone. I'm now experiencing the joy of 12vdc operation .

Anyway, I charged my deep cycle battery a couple of weeks ago and put it in the AS. After working in the trailer for a few days and running lights, radio and fans, I noticed that when I turned on the 'final' interior light, the radio would turn off. Once I turned the extra light off, the radio would kick back on.

So here's an AS with a humming converter (the original by the looks of it) and I'm not sure which item is the problem. Per your great advice, I've already checked the fuses on the panel and they all seem to be okay.

Any direction you can provide would be awesome. Thanks again.

Mitch
Mitch,
First the easy tests: With the lights on at nite, turn the converter on and off. Since it puts out more than 12 volts, the lights should get brighter when it is on. This is easiest to see at nite. If there is no change, then pick up a cheap digital voltmeter and check the voltages at the fuses with the converter on and off. Check the voltage at the converter itself with it on and off. If the converter is putting out more than 13 volts, try cleaning all the connections. Loosen the big wire clamps and retighten. Make sure the grippers are tight on the fuses.

Disconnect the battery and see if the converter will run the lights by itself. The radio will have a lot of noise, but it will test if the converter is putting out current.
When the capacitors went in my converter, it still made a quiet hum, but no where near as loud as when it was working properly.
Good Luck!
__________________

__________________
Dave
Okemos, MI
T.V.:'05 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 Quad Cab Cummins
AIR#2276
sander17 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -6. The time now is 11:55 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.

Airstream is a registered trademark of Airstream Inc. All rights reserved. Airstream trademark used under license to Social Knowledge LLC.