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Old 10-30-2008, 08:13 AM   #15
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the 12+ and ground are reversed on my tow vehicle vs. the airstream owners manual
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Old 10-30-2008, 08:43 AM   #16
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Try this for the connector pin out


Marksrv.com 7 way wiring diagram page

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Old 10-30-2008, 09:28 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by finalcutjoe View Post
the 12+ and ground are reversed on my tow vehicle vs. the airstream owners manual
If that's the case, it would certainly draw down the coach (and tv) batteries fast, pretty much a dead short.
I just scanned through this thread without reading it all, but have you unplugged the umbilical, and checked to make sure the + and - match on both truck and trailer through the connection?
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Old 10-30-2008, 09:56 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by finalcutjoe View Post
Let idle for about five minutes.. no change in Trimetric reading.

Then- while I’m scratching my head, staring at the Trimetric, my helper ‘accidentally’ hits the brakes in the burb, activating the actibrake hydraulic pump in the trailer—suddenly the amp readout jumps from -.09 to 1.12 and shows charge

After a couple of minutes, the amps drop to -.19 (we’re still hooked up, with burb idling)

We repeated this sequence (hitting brakes, showing charge… then a few minutes later showing a drain) several times


Sorry for the lengthy post.. any help would be greatly appreciated...
Would like to mention that Airstream changed the wiring in July 2008.

"New Style Hydraulic Braking Pump - Active Technologies has eliminated the need to run the vehicle charge line through the pumps circuitry. Airstream now wires the charge line to the house batteries through the bus bar located on the interior of the unit."

Would not explain the batteries in your trailer running down, but would explain why you only had charge when the brakes were applied.
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Old 11-01-2008, 11:41 AM   #19
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Verified wiring.
Contrary to my last post, the +12v, ground, ‘blue’ feed, all wired properly…
Neat- I’m trying to reconcile your post with what the actibrake wiring diagram shows… not sure I understand…

Reconnected suburban to trailer… but this time I followed the ‘recalibration’ procedure (as outlined in a/s and actibrake manual), which entails holding the manual brake lever to ‘max’ for 5 sec, after each time you connect umbilical…

Trimetric reads ~1.2A charge
Every two minutes or so, the Trimetric will show the charge drop into a -.07 draw for just a second or two, then immediately swing back to around a 0.6A charge… climbing slowly… until it dropped back to a draw, and repeated the cycle…
I monitored this behavior for about ten minutes while I idled the truck

I also noticed, that when I pushed on my truck brake to activate the trailer brakes, the Trimetric would register a –1.3A draw, while the pump was cycling…
So essentially, instead of getting a fresh charge while logging my 10 hours of travel, I’m slowly draining the trailer batteries… unless of course, I don’t use my brakes…


Regardless of whether this 'yo-yo' charging effect is normal... is an amp-and-a-half all I can expect to get through my trailer/truck umbilical?

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Old 11-01-2008, 06:35 PM   #20
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Joe,

Intriguing. Are you using the Suburban battery to power the Actibrake, or did you wire it to the trailer battery?
The actibrake should be wired to both. TV when attached and house when not.
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Old 11-06-2008, 07:11 AM   #21
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found some relevant info in this thread:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/show...5&referrerid=0

still trying to figure out the actibrake wiring diagram... specifically, the note about providing +12v to the center pin of the 7-way 'auxiliary hot wire'

does this mean my voltmeter should be reading a +13~14v charge across the center and ground?

... I've got a thing or two to say about the dealer I bought from...
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Old 11-06-2008, 11:09 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by finalcutjoe View Post
found some relevant info in this thread:
http://www.airforums.com/forums/show...5&referrerid=0

still trying to figure out the actibrake wiring diagram... specifically, the note about providing +12v to the center pin of the 7-way 'auxiliary hot wire'

does this mean my voltmeter should be reading a +13~14v charge across the center and ground?

... I've got a thing or two to say about the dealer I bought from...
Hi, this is interesting because the center pin on my tow vehicle is for "Back-up Lights" in-which, my trailer doesn't have, nor do I have disc brakes. So this pin is useless on my set up. So let me get this straight, Actibrake wants you to rewire the back-up light circuit on your tow vehicle and connect the, un-used, center pin on your trailer to what?
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Old 11-07-2008, 04:03 AM   #23
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Bob,

I think what they're saying is, use the center post for anything in the trailer that requires auxilary power, and not to use the charge line/Actibrake 12V. line for providing auxilary power. If you had back up lights, you would continue to use the center tap.

It might be because the center tap is typically wired with #14 wire, which isn't sufficient for the Actibrake. The charge line is normally #10 wire.

It's not a clear and concisely worded diagram.
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Old 11-07-2008, 06:01 AM   #24
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distribution bar behind the kill switch
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Old 11-08-2008, 01:46 PM   #25
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finalcutjoe TAKE YOUR UNIT AND TRUCK TO THE AIRSTREAM FACTORY AND GET IT WIRED PROPERLY. sorry

I just went out side to look at my truck 7 pin plug, I can point out 3 posts so far that contradict each other, and the 4th post will be MINE.

all 7 pins on my truck are being used there isn't a positive 12 terminal for charging your trailer, contrary to GMC 30 amp fuse that is supplied for a 30 amp trailer feed?????? the backup pin wiring is being used on the truck and the trailer.

If you start custom wiring this trailer plug you could have problems when towing another trailer.

As before, this post is more negative than it should be but I hope its helpful.

my truck is a 2002 duramax
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Old 11-16-2008, 06:03 PM   #26
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Relative to your actibrake, I hope I get this right;

1) Your actibrake goes to sleep (no power draw) if it does not see a blue wire pulse for some period of time. Not sure what that period of time is, but I think it is around 2 hours or so.

2) The motor/pump gets power from two possible sources; Black wire when not in break away, Brown wire when in break away.

3) Depending up pressure, you can get a very large inrush current into the motor, and at full pressure I think those things can consume say 20 amps or so from black wire.

4) Relative to your current draw, when you hit the brakes you sent a blue wire pulse and thus "woke up" the CPU and such, and thus the actibrake will draw its motor off current for about 2 hours.

I think this is about right.
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