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Ramp · 12-28-2008, 06:08 PM

The neutral is grounded in your house power panel as it should be. Also in your trailer power panel and also tied to the frame and shell. This is to give any current that may be in the shell or frame a path of least resistance to ground instead of flowing trough your body while standing in a damp or wet location and touching the shell. If the current is great enough it will trip the breaker or blow the fuse in the power panel. The breaker or fuse is sized to protect the wiring from overheating not to protect you from shock. The GIF is to protect people from shock and measures current flow between "hot and neutral" looking for a in-balance. You need to make sure your trailer IS grounded at all locations and that the cords are properly polarized as Andy stated. Just because a cord is new dosen't mean it is good. I would turn all switches off and unplug the Univolt then using a clamp on amp meter at the fuse panel check each circuit one at a time until you find the one with current flow. It will be shorted somewhere. Good luck they are sometimes hard find.

pauly g · 12-28-2008, 08:57 PM

Our trailer tripped the GFI until I replaced the old power socket on the outside of the trailer with one made by Marinco. The old connector "leaked" to ground.

Janets Husband · 12-28-2008, 09:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ramp

The neutral is grounded in your house power panel as it should be. Also in your trailer power panel and also tied to the frame and shell.

The Neutral and ground should not be connected in an RV. Please refer to: RV Doctor: RV electrical wiring and home wiring not the same , power systems, RV, Motor Homes ...
There is a difference in RV wiring and house wiring. Please read the following reference: http://www.idph.state.il.us/envhealt...ForCampers.pdf and look for this section : "Do remember; the NEUTRAL MUST NOT BE GROUNDED ANYWHERE ON THE LOAD SIDE OF THE SERVICE ENTRANCES AND THAT THE EQUIPMENT GROUNDING CONDUCTOR (GREEN WIRE) MUST RUN FROM THE SERVICE ENTRANCE TO EACH AND EVERY ELECTRICAL EQUIPMENT in a campground, including those in the RV itself."
There are many references on grounded neutral in RVs.

weiss1957 · 12-28-2008, 09:13 PM

Here is what I found today: The neutral wire on the circuit that feeds all of the AC outlets in the trailer was grounded. I could not find exactly where. It was not grounding at one of the outlets, although I found a badly corroded outlet below the refrigerator. I finally determined that it was grounded in the wall of the trailer somewhere. I traced the ground to a point that I found was in the wire running from the outlet above the sink (first on the circuit) back to the breaker box.

So, I abandoned the wire running from the breaker box to the first outlet and pulled a new piece of 12 gauge solid copper Romex down from the outlet box and then ran it in back, but somewhat below, the oven. I fed that right into the cabinet next to the head and wired it in place of the original line.

The new feed wire for the circuit works great, all outlets are working, show correct polarity, and no floating ground. I do still, however, need to replace the outlet at the refrigerator. That outlet is behind an exterior panel and I can see the seal is very bad and I am sure water has built up on the outlet. I will need to see about relocating it in a better spot.

Thanks for all of your help. I still have a few things to sort out, but the trailer is plugged in and the batteries are charging, I'm not being shocked and I feel I have found that the true meaning of vintage. I had supposed a vintage AS meant it was old, but what I know now is that it means you have a lot of work ahead of you.

Thanks,

Mike

Ifihadtime · 12-29-2008, 12:32 AM

"I had supposed a vintage AS meant it was old, but what I know now is that it means you have a lot of work ahead of you."

Amen!

87MH · 12-29-2008, 06:29 AM

This is what I found "hidden" in the trunk/floor service entrance area when I started working on the '78 Sovereign:

and in the plug itself...

Note that the Yahoo who put the plug onto the cable had the black and white leads reversed from where they were supposed to be - this made the white lead "hot" - then notice which wires were worn through in the first pic - ouch!

weiss1957 · 12-29-2008, 10:22 PM

Monday update: Installed new duplex outlet in refrigerator access panel, tested all AC circuits. 110 VAC, correct polarity, proper grounding at all eight receptacles in the trailer.

Tuesday plan: Install new weatherstrip on refrigerator access panel and tune up hinge attachment and lock.

Thanks to all who shared their ideas for repairs with me. A collective mind is a terrible thing to waste...

Thanks,

Mike

Pic of the after duplex outlet installation complete with stainless steel cover for better oxidation protection...

Inland RV Center, In · 12-30-2008, 08:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by weiss1957

Monday update: Installed new duplex outlet in refrigerator access panel, tested all AC circuits. 110 VAC, correct polarity, proper grounding at all eight receptacles in the trailer.

Tuesday plan: Install new weatherstrip on refrigerator access panel and tune up hinge attachment and lock.

Thanks to all who shared their ideas for repairs with me. A collective mind is a terrible thing to waste...

Thanks,

Mike

Pic of the after duplex outlet installation complete with stainless steel cover for better oxidation protection...

Two things from your photo.

1. You have restricted the vent for the reefer.

2. The LPG line to/from the reefer, should be copper.

Andy

ROBERT CROSS · 12-30-2008, 09:15 AM

FWIW..The new recepticle mounted as shown may be susceptable to moisture build-up. Could it be mounted vertically on side-wall?

weiss1957 · 12-30-2008, 08:46 PM

I considered that its position was not well suited, but went with installing it exactly the way the old one was, complete with rivets and all. I could see mounting it in a better location in a different orientation, but will probably save that for later. I did see one or two things I could improve the condition of in that space and will get to it in time. I am just pleased that I have clean power throughout the trailer at this point.

Also, thanks for the tip on copper tubing. Is the idea that the rubber hose will wear against something and begin to leak? As for the air flow to the refrigerator. Do you think that there was not an outlet in that area stock and that it might have been added there? If so, would someone have an idea of how it was mounted stock?

Thanks,

Mike