Melting 30 amp plug

[handn]

Cords do wear out. When the prongs start to oxidize, replace the cord. You can replace the plug only but I replace the cord because of the possibility of wear and corrosion on the female end which is not as visible. All the suggestions about tight connections are good as well as the one about using a 50 to 30 adapter.
If the problem persists with a new cord and tight connection, something is not right inside the trailer and it is time for the technician.

[idroba]

Originally Posted by dominicjohn

We had a 30A Cable melt down a couple weeks ago. It was the end of the cord that attaches to the trailer and twists on. The back side of the receptacle that it attaches to on the trailer actually melted and the end of the cord attached to it was molten. Could it have been the campground post that caused this at the far end of the cord? I was thinking that we had a short on the back side of the recepacle on the trailer.

That twist lock plug and outlet damage at the trailer would not have been caused by the campground post outlet. It was caused by some problem with the twist lock system on the trailer or the cord which was connected to it.

I doubt it was any short which caused it, more likely just a poor twist lock connection (maybe not inserted fully and not twisted in place possibly).

Older Airstreams had permanently connected power cords and this kind of damage could not happen. By going to a completely detachable cord, a second set of plugs and outlets was introduced. I am not convinced it was a good change but it is what is used now, so we have to deal with it.

[TG Twinkie]

I agree with idroba. The fewer detachable connections the better.
Always turn the circuit breaker off before plugging in or unplugging your coach. There will be arcing otherwise.
Even when the power is off. Use the palm off your hand to push the male end into the female end. Do not grip the male end.
Filing or sanding corrosion off is not a good idea since it removes some metal creating even more clearance between the male and female connection. It also makes the surface rough reducing the contact area of the prongs.
Carry a replacement plug with you. And only replace it if you have the knowledge to do so.




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[Skater]

Originally Posted by idroba

Older Airstreams had permanently connected power cords and this kind of damage could not happen. By going to a completely detachable cord, a second set of plugs and outlets was introduced. I am not convinced it was a good change but it is what is used now, so we have to deal with it.

Originally Posted by TG Twinkie

I agree with idroba. The fewer detachable connections the better.

As someone with the non-detachable cord, I wish it WAS detachable, because it'd be much easier to replace when the cord wears out. As it stands, I have no idea how hard mine is to replace because the cord disappears into the body of the trailer. I don't know if it's hooked directly to the main breaker panel or if there's another box, but either way it's likely to be difficult to replace because of access issues for the box and/or being secured to something inside a wall. I'm hoping it's easier than I think for that day when I have to replace it.

[dznf0g]

My first SOB had a permanently mounted cord. While I agree with the "fewer the better" connection practice, when the cord goes through the wall, the ants come marching in. Even with sealing attempts, the flexing and weight, etc. eventually the seal opens up and you have a potential issue. Been there done that. I installed a Marinco setup years before they started selling them at RV places.

[idroba]

Originally Posted by Skater

As someone with the non-detachable cord, I wish it WAS detachable, because it'd be much easier to replace when the cord wears out. As it stands, I have no idea how hard mine is to replace because the cord disappears into the body of the trailer. I don't know if it's hooked directly to the main breaker panel or if there's another box, but either way it's likely to be difficult to replace because of access issues for the box and/or being secured to something inside a wall. I'm hoping it's easier than I think for that day when I have to replace it.

Yes, they are much more difficult to replace. When I finally had to replace mine on my '74 Argosy I spliced the new one to the old one where I could get to it, but it had not worn out. But going all the way back to the power panel would have been extremely difficult.

I must also say that it was over 30 years old when it did need replacing though, so I didn't complain.

My general feeling is that there will be more wear, problems and need to replace things with the detachable cords over time than with the permanently attached ones. This is mainly due to the weight of the cord at the wall outlet and the additional set of contacts and resistance plus heating they cause. Probably the very very best quality ones might not have issues but the plastic ones that Airstream supplies will be much less rugged and will fail more often, over time, than permanently attached cords.

[crispyboy]

Originally Posted by Skater

I have no idea how hard mine is to replace because the cord disappears into the body of the trailer. I don't know if it's hooked directly to the main breaker panel or if there's another box, but either way it's likely to be difficult to replace because of access issues for the box and/or being secured to something inside a wall. I'm hoping it's easier than I think for that day when I have to replace it.

I have a 1994 30' trailer. If I remember correctly I believe there is a junction box that can be seen in the left rear compartment of the trailer. This should be where the shore power cord termination point can be accessed.

I changed out the male end of the power cord last year with the Camco replacement cord end 55245. The old one looked like it had experienced many low volt/high amp situations.

[dznf0g]

If they're installed snugly with the screw ring, there is NO vertical pressure on the prongs and terminals. My old one was 17 years old and never had a problem. Remember, they are designed for the marine industry...=belt and suspenders and way over-engineered, as is everything else Coast Guard Approved.

[Skater]

Originally Posted by crispyboy

I have a 1994 30' trailer. If I remember correctly I believe there is a junction box that can be seen in the left rear compartment of the trailer. This should be where the shore power cord termination point can be accessed.

Thanks. I'll take a look next time I'm in there.

[ROBERT CROSS]

POI.....

Make sure EVERYTHING in the trailer is TURNED OFF before plugging in. Dielectric grease on the prongs will prevent the oxidation.

I always plug in our EMS-PT30C into the tower to ck for issues.

Bob

[Skater]

Originally Posted by idroba

My general feeling is that there will be more wear, problems and need to replace things with the detachable cords over time than with the permanently attached ones. This is mainly due to the weight of the cord at the wall outlet and the additional set of contacts and resistance plus heating they cause. Probably the very very best quality ones might not have issues but the plastic ones that Airstream supplies will be much less rugged and will fail more often, over time, than permanently attached cords.

What I'd like to do with ours is install the detachable fitting where the cord comes out of the body of the trailer inside the current cord storage bin. Then, I'd leave it attached 99% of the time, but I'd be able to detach it if there was an issue of some kind. I don't know if this would work in the space I have there, though - I don't plan to do it until it becomes an issue or I'm REALLY bored and all of my other, more pressing issues, have been resolved - probably right around the time peace on earth breaks out and Congress actually starts working together.

Reading this thread reminds me of a thought that I have every time I'm dealing with our cord storage: "This wasn't one of Airstream's better designs." The odd thing is that I had the same thought for every cord storage design I've dealt with on Airstreams - from just laying it in the rear bumper, to the spring loaded reels, to the space under the shower in the B190, to the sliding metal bracket thingy on our '95 trailer. So I guess Airstream is just keeping that tradition alive with the current cord setup, too.

[dznf0g]

Let me ask a question. Since storage is at a premium in our ASes, and the cord is always the first thing unloaded and the last thing loaded, why do we use our storage compartments for the cord?????

I finally realized this some time ago, and now just throw the cord into the back of the truck, on top of....whatever. When the AS is in storage, I just lay it on the floor inside the door. Again, it'll be the first thing I take out when I arrive home or at a CG. If boondocking, it is on the floor of the truck...under everything else.

[crispyboy]

Skater,
It seems that you are thinking about changing out your shore power cord to the twist lock type.
My opinion after using both is that the original design (cord hard wired to the trailer) works better.
My sister owns a 2008 Safari with the Twist-Lock type of connector. I have used it a few times and I think it is a PAIN IN THE REAR END.
Why?
1. Lining up the prongs can be a pain.
2. Threading on the locking collar is a pain
3. There is always the possibility of theft

I once thought about doing the same project (converting to the twist-lock cord) on an older trailer with the trunk shore power cord setup. Hind-site I'm glad I didn't do that project.

[boondockdad]

Had the same thing happen on our new 2008, a couple years down the road.

Took trailer to J/C to get checked-out
Rick told me coach was fine, and it was a run of bad cables (that were somehow not recalled)

Gave me a new HD cable
Haven't had problem since