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Old 05-12-2016, 04:11 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by FCStreamer View Post
So what is the Use/Store button for then?

To do just that. The problem is AS uses an old charger. Search the forum and ask any AS dealer.

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Old 05-12-2016, 09:49 AM   #30
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The problem with the cheap OEM charger is this—if you leave it plugged in, eventually it will overcharge the batteries and after a while the water will evaporate in the batteries, causing more problems. This most often happens when stored, but if you have fully charged batteries while camping, the charger part of the converter will continue to (over)charge them.

If you turn off the "use" switch or don't plug in shore power, the batteries will gradually lose a charge and may get so low, they get some damage. In that case, you need to recharge the batteries every couple of months. For that it is best to use a trickle charger or one that switches to trickle once the batteries are charged. There's really no reason to change "use" to "store" because all you have to do is unplug shore power.

The best long run solution is to get a better converter that includes a trickle charger option. These are called three stage chargers as they first charge fast, then slower, then only to top off the charge.

Since most people seem to buy Airstreams for the long run, it follows that most of us upgrade a number of cheap items Airstream installs. The converter is one of them.



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Old 05-13-2016, 07:51 AM   #31
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So far we have replaced the water heater, oven/stove, refrigerator, skylight, roof vent fans, all electrical outlets, brake system and bearings, tires and wheels, battery system, converter, and circuit breaker box. In the future, will probably replace the roof air conditioner. Other than that, the trailer is stock.
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Old 05-14-2016, 08:30 AM   #32
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Why push on ends for the TV cable?
Originally Posted by Gene View Post
If you want to know just what cable is necessary to avoid voltage drop, Google it. There are plenty of charts that will tell you.

I'm confused about what the 14 gauge extension is for. I question whether a 14 gauge extension cord is sufficient for a 30 amp trailer if you are powering the trailer with it (yes the plugs are different, but with adapters, it could be used). In residential wiring, generally 15 amp circuits use 14 gauge, 20 amp circuits use 12 gauge and 30 amp circuits use 10 gauge. If you use 14 gauge and run the A/C, I'll bet the cord gets hot. And if you use two appliances at the same time, even hotter. And the appliances may operate well below 120 v., possibly damaging them.

If you are just using it to run a lamp 50' from the trailer, fine. But why all the cords? I've carried a 12' extension cord for years and never used it. I brought it in case while boon docking I wanted to use the generator to power a microwave or toaster, but never have bothered. One length of RV cable has always been long enough, though sometimes just barely. I have carried an extension for that (RV extension, not standard outdoor extension cord), but never needed it. The 50-30 amp. dogbone and a 20-30 adapter are good to have. I don't think I've ever used the dogbone either, and if so, once in 9 years. I have been short on coaxial cable for TV, so I have two cables, not sure of their length—maybe 40' all together. I recently added push on ends to the coax and that is a blessing. My hand is too big to easily screw the cable into the box on the side of the trailer.

So my list is: regular RV cord with twist lock, maybe an extension for that, 2 25' coaxial cables with push on ends, 50-30 dogbone, 20-20 adapter, one regular outdoor 12 gauge extension cord. The longer the cable, the harder to coil and store.

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Old 05-14-2016, 08:14 PM   #33
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Push on television cable ends also pull off easily. Even if you forget to remove them before you pull out.....

I haven't done this dumb move yet, but I bet others have, and for sure something is going to give as you drive away. It's better to have to replace a cheap cable than try to fix bent aluminum or a broken internal cable...😄 just sayin!

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