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Old 01-22-2012, 07:54 AM   #15
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Here is a pretty good calculator. It looks like 100ft is about the limit with #10 wire. If you go to larger wire the cost gets really high. Copper is not cheap these days. If you go with #8 wire then you can go to 200ft. Remember wire is going to be several dollars per foot.

Voltage Drop Calculator - for single and 3 phase ac systems and dc systems

Perry
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Old 05-08-2016, 11:44 AM   #16
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Another area I need help with! Assume the FC 23 comes with a 25' 30A cord? If so what other electrical cords do we need?

Also, if stored at an Interstate Storage facility I would like to plug in to keep the batteries charged.
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Old 05-08-2016, 12:04 PM   #17
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If you have the basic OEM converter, you may not want to leave it plugged in as you can overcharge and damage your batteries. You could use a simple, inexpensive "battery tender" instead. For a low draw like that your basic big box extension cord will do fine.

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Old 05-08-2016, 12:05 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cactusjk View Post
Another area I need help with! Assume the FC 23 comes with a 25' 30A cord? If so what other electrical cords do we need?

Also, if stored at an Interstate Storage facility I would like to plug in to keep the batteries charged.
Each persons needs depends on their situation. So no one can give you an answer that will cover your specific needs.

What I carry:
30' 10ga 120v 30amp RV extension cord. (I carry two of these)
20amp to 30amp RV adapter
50amp to 30amp RV adapter
50' 12ga 120v extension cord - for charging/camping with 2000w generator
50' 14ga 120v extension cord - for general use while camping (this would also work for storage charging)
replacement ends, male and female for 20 amp cord
replacement ends, male and female for 30 amp RV cord
50' CATV cable
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Old 05-08-2016, 02:45 PM   #19
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My boat used two 30 amp cables, and I used 75' (50' + 25') cables with no issues.
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Old 05-08-2016, 02:52 PM   #20
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That is a great list to start with!
Quote:
Originally Posted by A W Warn View Post
Each persons needs depends on their situation. So no one can give you an answer that will cover your specific needs.

What I carry:
30' 10ga 120v 30amp RV extension cord. (I carry two of these)
20amp to 30amp RV adapter
50amp to 30amp RV adapter
50' 12ga 120v extension cord - for charging/camping with 2000w generator
50' 14ga 120v extension cord - for general use while camping (this would also work for storage charging)
replacement ends, male and female for 20 amp cord
replacement ends, male and female for 30 amp RV cord
50' CATV cable
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Old 05-08-2016, 03:51 PM   #21
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If you want to know just what cable is necessary to avoid voltage drop, Google it. There are plenty of charts that will tell you.

I'm confused about what the 14 gauge extension is for. I question whether a 14 gauge extension cord is sufficient for a 30 amp trailer if you are powering the trailer with it (yes the plugs are different, but with adapters, it could be used). In residential wiring, generally 15 amp circuits use 14 gauge, 20 amp circuits use 12 gauge and 30 amp circuits use 10 gauge. If you use 14 gauge and run the A/C, I'll bet the cord gets hot. And if you use two appliances at the same time, even hotter. And the appliances may operate well below 120 v., possibly damaging them.

If you are just using it to run a lamp 50' from the trailer, fine. But why all the cords? I've carried a 12' extension cord for years and never used it. I brought it in case while boon docking I wanted to use the generator to power a microwave or toaster, but never have bothered. One length of RV cable has always been long enough, though sometimes just barely. I have carried an extension for that (RV extension, not standard outdoor extension cord), but never needed it. The 50-30 amp. dogbone and a 20-30 adapter are good to have. I don't think I've ever used the dogbone either, and if so, once in 9 years. I have been short on coaxial cable for TV, so I have two cables, not sure of their length—maybe 40' all together. I recently added push on ends to the coax and that is a blessing. My hand is too big to easily screw the cable into the box on the side of the trailer.

So my list is: regular RV cord with twist lock, maybe an extension for that, 2 25' coaxial cables with push on ends, 50-30 dogbone, 20-20 adapter, one regular outdoor 12 gauge extension cord. The longer the cable, the harder to coil and store.

Gene
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Old 05-08-2016, 04:29 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gene View Post
.... snip....

I'm confused about what the 14 gauge extension is for. I question whether a 14 gauge extension cord is sufficient for a 30 amp trailer ..... snip...

Gene
I have used the 14 ga extension for 120v small tools, 120v work light, battery charger, electric fry pan, air fan. It is lighter and easier to handle than the 12ga commercial extension cord I carry. It is definitely not for powering the trailer appliances, but it will handle the converter only in storage (and it is less expensive if stolen).

The reason I carry 2 25' 30 amp extensions; some campgrounds I have been in have the electric services that the power cord with one extension will not reach. I've also been at full a campground and been able to slip in to a non electric site and borrow from a neighbor's 50 amp.
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Old 05-08-2016, 05:00 PM   #23
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In the 23D I carry a 30 amp 30' cord with twist-look fittings on both ends so it can attach directly to the trailer and generator or be an extension for the 25' normal 30 Amp
Cord. Since I am limited to five amps in the storage unit, I carry a 25' 14 gage cord for in the storage unit. I also have all the possible adapters for both 50 amp poet source or 20 amp power source. I have a 20" pigtail to go from the trailer inlet to male 15 amp for storage power cord.

In the Classic, we have a 30' 50 amp main cord, a 10' and a 25' 50 amp extension cords. Various power adapters, 50 amp trailer connection to 15 amp male for storage unit power. 25' 15 amp cord for storage unit power.
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Old 05-08-2016, 10:19 PM   #24
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So the way to do this commercially is to use a larger size wire to the receptacle so that the drop there is kept small.

Think of it like you are setting up a single load sub-panel. Hence run two number 6 AWG, and one 10 AWG for ground. That will save you more than 50% of the distribution loss. Branch circuit runs are always longer than one would think.

Compressor like their voltage.
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Old 05-11-2016, 05:49 AM   #25
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If you have the basic OEM converter, you may not want to leave it plugged in as you can overcharge and damage your batteries. You could use a simple, inexpensive "battery tender" instead. For a low draw like that your basic big box extension cord will do fine.

Mike


I upgraded the OEM charger so I can leave it plugged in.
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Old 05-11-2016, 06:12 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n2916s View Post
If you have the basic OEM converter, you may not want to leave it plugged in as you can overcharge and damage your batteries. You could use a simple, inexpensive "battery tender" instead. For a low draw like that your basic big box extension cord will do fine.

Mike
Hang on - so if I leave my AS plugged in all the time, I will overcharge my batteries?
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Old 05-11-2016, 06:15 AM   #27
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Yes. I shifted to an Intel-Power 4600 converter/charger to avoid that.
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Old 05-11-2016, 06:24 AM   #28
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So what is the Use/Store button for then?
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