Magnum inverter install question?

[ArtisanAir]

Hello,
This question is directed towards a certain member who would know the answer. But anybody can chime in.

Lew, I'm using a 300a class t fuse on the dc side of my ms-2012 install. That being said you need to incorporate a disconnect before and after the fuse. I was going to use a disconnect for the pre-fused side, but can I use the DCLD pigtail to prevent any flow going to the battery from the inverter? I'm assuming it shuts the inverter down as if you hit the on/off switch, not allowing the charging cycle to initiate. Or do I need to install another disconnect post-fused. Please assure what I'm thinking.... Thank you

[lewster]

Originally Posted by ArtisanAir

Hello,
This question is directed towards a certain member who would know the answer. But anybody can chime in.

Lew, I'm using a 300a class t fuse on the dc side of my ms-2012 install. That being said you need to incorporate a disconnect before and after the fuse. I was going to use a disconnect for the pre-fused side, but can I use the DCLD pigtail to prevent any flow going to the battery from the inverter? I'm assuming it shuts the inverter down as if you hit the on/off switch, not allowing the charging cycle to initiate. Or do I need to install another disconnect post-fused. Please assure what I'm thinking.... Thank you

AA,

The specific cable order should be like this:

• battery
• 2/0 cable up to 5' for the total length to the inverter positive, 4/0 up to 10' (it's in the MS-2012 manual), double 4/0 from 10-15 feet maximum run length
• 300 amp class T inverter fuse
• 300 amp inverter disconnect switch
• final run of appropriately sized welding cable
• positive terminal of the inverter

The only place I would tap off this positive run is at the battery side of the inverter fuse, not at the switch. The cable should be unencumbered from the fuse to the inverter by any other DC loads.

For a feed to the house positive bus bar, I typically use a 50 amp marine circuit breaker and 4 AWG cabling.

*****Remember to place all fuses and circuit breakers within 18" of the positive battery terminal to meet NEC code!

Any more questions?

[lewster]

Here's a bit of a visual. This is from an Interstate coach and uses a Magnum MMS-1012, but you can see the order of the devices. I also use solid copper bar extensively in my installations to keep the wire runs as short as possible since it's pretty tough to get a 2/0 or 4/0 cable less than 3", including lug ends or to make short, sharp bends.

[ArtisanAir]

Your the man! So a disconnect after the 300a fuse is not needed? Also what do you recommend for a bcc or automatic relay switch, or bim. I am worried about the tow vehicle's alternator getting involved with the agm batteries I just installed. I've seen swelling from I assume over charged batteries, also charging different types of batteries from the same source? Certainly the alternator does not have the 3, 4, or 5 stage charge like the inverter. What do you recommend on your installs when charging from your tow vehicle? Thanks again Lew!

[ArtisanAir]

One other question I had is, what size copper bar would be a equivalent to 4/0 copper wire? Would 1/4" x 3/4" suffice?

[ArtisanAir]

Lew, I was looking at your pic in this thread a little harder and I think I'm seeing a isolator seloniod? Is that how it is switching from vehicle alternator charge? Im getting wound up in different applications for charging the system from the tow vehicle.... Im sure there is a simple way or the sophisticated way. Please help

[grwalk]

Lew
Do you have some schematics of this configuration? Any schematics for connecting 12 volt DC in a trailer, example: installing an inverter, shunt, etc.

Thanks

[lewster]

Originally Posted by ArtisanAir

Your the man! So a disconnect after the 300a fuse is not needed? Also what do you recommend for a bcc or automatic relay switch, or bim. I am worried about the tow vehicle's alternator getting involved with the agm batteries I just installed. I've seen swelling from I assume over charged batteries, also charging different types of batteries from the same source? Certainly the alternator does not have the 3, 4, or 5 stage charge like the inverter. What do you recommend on your installs when charging from your tow vehicle? Thanks again Lew!

There IS a disconnect between the inverter fuse and the positive inverter terminal (big red switch marine switch). Interstate vans use a BIM from Precision Circuits, but for trailers, I simply pull the fuse on the charge line of the TV. You don't want a continual 14.2 VDC from the alternator hitting the batteries, as they will never have an opportunity to float and will overcharge. The fuse is easy to identify from your vehicle manual.

[lewster]

Originally Posted by grwalk

Lew
Do you have some schematics of this configuration? Any schematics for connecting 12 volt DC in a trailer, example: installing an inverter, shunt, etc.

Thanks

These are easily found from the equipment makers. Magnum has some great wiring diagrams in their manuals....available on-line, as do Blue Sky Energy for solar. AM Solar also has a couple of good block diagrams on their web site.

[lewster]

Originally Posted by ArtisanAir

One other question I had is, what size copper bar would be a equivalent to 4/0 copper wire? Would 1/4" x 3/4" suffice?

1/8" X 1". You will never bend 1/4" solid bar.

[lewster]

Originally Posted by ArtisanAir

Lew, I was looking at your pic in this thread a little harder and I think I'm seeing a isolator seloniod? Is that how it is switching from vehicle alternator charge? Im getting wound up in different applications for charging the system from the tow vehicle.... Im sure there is a simple way or the sophisticated way. Please help

This pic is from an Interstate van. you are seeing the Precision Circuits BIM solenoid. It was already in place from the factory.

[ArtisanAir]

So long story short you would not charge the AGM batteries with the TV source? That would be the easy answer. How could you use the TV to supply the 12V DC while being isolated from the camper bank? Solenoid? Transfer Relay? I'm getting overwhelmed in different applications, I would like a simplified system (no bim or bcc).

[Katzmeow]

Hi I have taken out all the electrical in my 1971 land yacht I just want to install new exterior wiring that works from the tow plug...also four outlets and overhead track lights air conditioner ... can you make any suggestions about maybe solar I plan on using the AS as a traveling vintage shop

[lewster]

Originally Posted by ArtisanAir

So long story short you would not charge the AGM batteries with the TV source? That would be the easy answer. How could you use the TV to supply the 12V DC while being isolated from the camper bank? Solenoid? Transfer Relay? I'm getting overwhelmed in different applications, I would like a simplified system (no bim or bcc).

That IS the easy answer. I remove the charge line fuse in the TV whenever I install Lifelines or Lithiums. But then it really isn't required as these rigs all have substantial solar charging capacity.


Lew Farber
RVIA/RVDA Nationally Certified Master Tech
Master Tech Energy Systems, Inc.
AM Solar Certified Installation Center
Lifeline Batteries**Magnum Inverters
541-490-6357

[ArtisanAir]

Well here it is... I made the coffin box on the street side in front of the wheel well, 16" x 16" x 72". Those dimensions work great for storing batteries and an inverter. It also doubles as a full size bed. I will install another piece of ply on top of the cover with a piano hinge. When folded out, it will be the width of a full size bed. I made the box out of 1 5/8 metal studs and 1/2 plywood.

For the service, I went with 50 amp. I mounted the shore power twist-and-lock hookup in the back bumper and ran 6/3 romex to the box. I am using a Magnum inverter 2012 2000 watt pure sine wave, recommended by some great support (thanks Lew!). I understand now why he is so adamant about these systems. I will never install anything other than Magnum brand in my trailers. I also partnered it with a Magnum battery monitoring system, DC shunt, 300 amp fuse, and the control panel. I used the Blue Sea disconnect switch ,transfer switch, and DC fuse panel. The transfer switch is for when (if ever) you would like to only run off of the TV power and not the bank. It will switch between the bank and the TV power, they are never married due to different battery charging rates. For the batteries I went with six 6 volt 220 Amp Hour AGM Trojan batteries. They are ran in a parallel series to equal out to 12 volts @ 660 AH. The inverter has adequate spacing above it because I used lexan between the inverter and the mounted accessories, raised off of the inverter. I used 1/8" x 1" copper bar for the run between the batteries and the inverter all bent and shrink wrapped. I installed the AC breaker box and DC fuse box on the exterior of the box for easy access.

I hope you enjoyed following this build!

[BoldAdventure]

Where are you people ordering your copper bar from?

[ArtisanAir]

I ordered it from amazon

Here's a link

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o05_s00

If you go to "see all product family" you can select different widths, lengths, and thicknesses.