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Old 06-26-2011, 09:35 AM   #15
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Paul if you have the original fridge it uses no 12VDC power at all. The largest draw would be any of the fans, like the roof vent fans, the bathroom fan, the stove fan or the furnace fan. Anything with a motor will draw the most power from the system.
You can quickly check the operation of the converter by checking the voltage at the battery with nothing turned on and shore power disconnected, then plug in the shore power and the battery voltage should rise if the converter is working.
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Old 06-26-2011, 10:29 AM   #16
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OK, I will do that. I'll post what I find. ( I do have origional frige).
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Old 06-26-2011, 01:07 PM   #17
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Good news. Batt. came up from 12.4 to 13.1 over the last couple hours.

Thanks to all for walking me thru this.
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Old 06-26-2011, 01:33 PM   #18
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I'd think the converter would be putting out 12 volt on shore power, even with the battery removed. Maybe it's a different type converter than mine.
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Old 06-26-2011, 01:49 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flynavy View Post
Good news. Batt. came up from 12.4 to 13.1 over the last couple hours.

Thanks to all for walking me thru this.
Great! Sounds like you're set.

Enjoy.
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Old 06-26-2011, 02:26 PM   #20
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Paul if you have the original Univolt converter you will need to be vigilant in monitoring the water level in the battery. The univolts are famous for overcharging and boiling batteries dry. Make sure you use distilled water only, regular tap water will have minerals in it that will attach themselves to the lead plates and ruin the battery.
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Old 06-27-2011, 07:15 PM   #21
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Thanks for that info. I have a new Interstate in it. Would hate to fry that.
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Old 06-27-2011, 09:06 PM   #22
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I agree with wasagachris. I replaced my Univolt even though it was working "fine." (That is, as good as they ever did.)

I went with a Progressive Dynamics Inteli-Power from Best Converter. Not only does it work vastly better, it is absolutely silent. No more Univolt hum.

If you need advice, Randy at Best Converter is 68 Overlander here on the forums.
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Old 06-29-2011, 05:49 AM   #23
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I think I will replace mine. I plan on disassembling the bath to paint and fix the floor, so I may as well change it while it's easy to get to. It would be nice to have the fuse panel in a more accesable location anyhow.
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