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Old 11-17-2018, 08:09 AM   #61
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2017 30' Classic
2022 Interstate 24X
Carlisle , Pennsylvania
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pdavitt View Post
Bob,
You ought to come to the desert southwest during July (The start of our rainy season in the Davis Mountains). You will get to witness the largest evaporative (swamp) cooler in action; a thunderstorm. I was sitting on the front porch one day and it was sunny and about 98F. Humidity was about 10%. A thunderstorm passed close by and the temperature dropped to the low 70s in about 15 minutes. It's amazing what happens when you introduce that much moisture into very dry air.


Pat
Hi

I've been there with tents, just not with the AS. I've also stood there watching the rain come down, hit my head and notice that none if it was making it to the ground ( = still bone dry "way down there") .... very weird ....

Bob
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Old 11-18-2018, 09:37 AM   #62
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2017 26' Flying Cloud
Fillmore , Indiana
Join Date: Jul 2018
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Electrical Distribution Suggestion

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyacker View Post
Hi All!
I'm looking for some feedback or any blindspots that the great members of this forum can identify that I'm missing in our electrical system. We're bringing a 1959 Ambassador LandYacht back to life and have elected to do a substantial upgrade to all electrical for boondocking and general fun for me.

We have detailed it in a post on our website here: https://www.wallytheairstream.com/bu...ctrical-system but the schematic is below.

We're using:
- 4 Renogy eclipse 100W panels in series/parallel
- Victron 100/30 MPPT
- Lithionics 450Ah LiPO4 battery
- Victron 3000/50 Multiplus
- SmartPlug 50Amp shore power input

Would love to hear anything I'm missing, etc.
Thanks for all the help!
I notice you've selected a SmartPlug 50 amp configuration, which I fully agree with. I suggest you reconsider your AC power distribution. Because 50 amp uses a common neutral for both legs, the AC loads should be distributed as evenly as possibly across both legs to minimize current in the neutral. For example, put the Air Conditioner load (+/- 12 amps) on one leg, and the electric hot water heater (+/- 11 amps) on the other leg. Similarly, converter on one leg, refrigerator on the other leg.

Hope this helps!
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Old 11-18-2018, 11:46 PM   #63
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2018 25' Flying Cloud
Portland , Oregon
Join Date: Oct 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdeegan View Post
I notice you've selected a SmartPlug 50 amp configuration, which I fully agree with. I suggest you reconsider your AC power distribution. Because 50 amp uses a common neutral for both legs, the AC loads should be distributed as evenly as possibly across both legs to minimize current in the neutral. For example, put the Air Conditioner load (+/- 12 amps) on one leg, and the electric hot water heater (+/- 11 amps) on the other leg. Similarly, converter on one leg, refrigerator on the other leg.

Hope this helps!
Except in this case he has a spiffy Victron Multiplus inverter which mixes shore current with battery and solar. You’d want everything on the leg, going through the Multiplus, that wants to ever run on battery. The other leg would just be things that only run on the shore (like the electric feed for the fridge and hot water heater. Dual AC trailers would have the second AC there as well.

The OP will also need some external 50A to 30A adapter for those cases where 50A isn’t available.
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Old 11-24-2018, 01:39 PM   #64
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1959 28' Ambassador
Victoria , Minnesota
Join Date: Apr 2016
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Originally Posted by daleyocum View Post
Except in this case he has a spiffy Victron Multiplus inverter which mixes shore current with battery and solar. You’d want everything on the leg, going through the Multiplus, that wants to ever run on battery. The other leg would just be things that only run on the shore (like the electric feed for the fridge and hot water heater. Dual AC trailers would have the second AC there as well.

The OP will also need some external 50A to 30A adapter for those cases where 50A isn’t available.
Sorry, I've been away getting all my parts arranged. Dale you're pretty close. The 110V leg of the inverter will go to all outlets, the 110V controls of things, as well as the AC. I'm going to save the second leg from the 50A for the electric side of the hot water heater and the electric side of the refrigerator. So when we're into shore power, we'll have everything off of leg 2 or the inverter. When not on shore power, the AC and all outlets will run on the inverter, the rest will run on propane (water heater and refrigerator) and/or 12V. We are using the multiplus 3000/50 so I'm a bit worried about running the high drain electricals (electric hot water and electric refrigerator) through the inverter as it would be entirely possible to have the AC, refrigerator, and the hot water heater running simultaneously which would exceed 3000W.

I've updated our component index at our website. We now own all of the components. I'll do a video soon to show all the pieces. It's nice to have that all out of the way. I sure do appreciate everyone's help!

https://www.wallytheairstream.com/pa...ex-and-diagram
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Old 11-25-2018, 05:15 PM   #65
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2017 30' Classic
2022 Interstate 24X
Carlisle , Pennsylvania
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyacker View Post
Sorry, I've been away getting all my parts arranged. Dale you're pretty close. The 110V leg of the inverter will go to all outlets, the 110V controls of things, as well as the AC. I'm going to save the second leg from the 50A for the electric side of the hot water heater and the electric side of the refrigerator. So when we're into shore power, we'll have everything off of leg 2 or the inverter. When not on shore power, the AC and all outlets will run on the inverter, the rest will run on propane (water heater and refrigerator) and/or 12V. We are using the multiplus 3000/50 so I'm a bit worried about running the high drain electricals (electric hot water and electric refrigerator) through the inverter as it would be entirely possible to have the AC, refrigerator, and the hot water heater running simultaneously which would exceed 3000W.

I've updated our component index at our website. We now own all of the components. I'll do a video soon to show all the pieces. It's nice to have that all out of the way. I sure do appreciate everyone's help!

https://www.wallytheairstream.com/pa...ex-and-diagram
Hi

As noted elsewhere ... doing it that way will result in a significant imbalance going into the neutral on the 50A. That's not a good idea.

Bob
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Old 11-25-2018, 07:25 PM   #66
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1959 28' Ambassador
Victoria , Minnesota
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Originally Posted by uncle_bob View Post
Hi

Well, going north in the summer does help some. I've certainly had to run both AC's to get the trailer cool in PA, NJ, DE, IN, and OH in the summer (not to mention points further south). I suspect there is some point in Canada that might not be true ....

Bob



Bob, yes you’re right. I’m sorry, I didn’t post what I meant. There’s a 2nd leg off of the multiplus that’s hot when we’re on shore power. Those are going to come off of that leg.
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Old 11-25-2018, 08:36 PM   #67
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1959 28' Ambassador
Victoria , Minnesota
Join Date: Apr 2016
Posts: 69
Anyone have the relay (set to alarm at default) set to autostart a generator? I've not looked into this yet but it seems that that the Honda/Champion/Predator generators with electric start could possibly be configured to kick on at a certain voltage level?
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Old 06-22-2021, 03:57 PM   #68
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1968 26' Overlander
Los Gatos , California
Join Date: Oct 2018
Posts: 72
Another schematic

Hi everyone - I'm hoping to open this thread back up and get your thoughts on this schematic by Victron. It's for a yacht but I think quite similar to what an Airstream would look like. I attached a photo but am worried it will be too low resolution so here's the link as well:

https://community.victronenergy.com/...fqjUnCKsZqzlg8

The problem with this schematic is when I price it out I'm coming in at $14k...now this is having 600Ah of LiFe batteries and 1000 watts of solar. I want to be able to live off grid for weeks at a time so I am looking to be pretty excessive in that realm. Besides downgrading batteries (which right now are almost half that 14k price tag) what else can I do to decrease the cost of my electrical system? Is everyone spending a base cost of ~5k on monitoring systems, inverters, MPPT, etc.?

Also one question on the diagram - do they include 2 Orion-Tr DC-DC charge isolators because the boat has two engines?
Attached Files
File Type: pdf multiplus-ii-3kw-2x120vac-12vdc-400ah-li-lynx-smar.pdf (1.80 MB, 25 views)
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Old 06-23-2021, 08:03 AM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stargirl View Post
Hi everyone - I'm hoping to open this thread back up and get your thoughts on this schematic by Victron. It's for a yacht but I think quite similar to what an Airstream would look like. I attached a photo but am worried it will be too low resolution so here's the link as well:

https://community.victronenergy.com/...fqjUnCKsZqzlg8

The problem with this schematic is when I price it out I'm coming in at $14k...now this is having 600Ah of LiFe batteries and 1000 watts of solar. I want to be able to live off grid for weeks at a time so I am looking to be pretty excessive in that realm. Besides downgrading batteries (which right now are almost half that 14k price tag) what else can I do to decrease the cost of my electrical system? Is everyone spending a base cost of ~5k on monitoring systems, inverters, MPPT, etc.?

Also one question on the diagram - do they include 2 Orion-Tr DC-DC charge isolators because the boat has two engines?
Hi

Far better to start from an RV centric design......

Going "pure Victron" will always be the expensive way to do this parts wise. Indeed your $14K does not include any install labor. Full up price done by a pro would be much higher.

Fitting 1KW of solar on the roof of this or that trailer may be doable or it may be impossible. The tighter you try to squeeze things, the more you get into issues. You may block this or that. You probably will find the only one brand / type of panels will pack in tight.

If you go with Battle Born batteries (which many of us have done) 600AH will cost you $4,800 delivered on sale, or $5,400 pretty much any day of the week.

Are you planning to do all the work yourself? If so, spend a lot of time working out what will fit on your roof. If not, get a pro involved early. Let them use their hard earned smarts to work that stuff out ...

Indeed, in a trailer, you would only run one DC/DC converter. Even in a MH you probably would only run one.

Bob
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Old 06-23-2021, 04:17 PM   #70
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1955 26' Cruiser/Overlander
harrisburg , Missouri
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 38
Stargirl,
I used the guidance from a couple youtube guys to set up my system.
first, Nate from EXPLORIST life: How to install solar and electrical in diy camper of Andy Rawls and second, Jared from All About Rv's: New rv Solar inverter setup. Both of these guys explain things in a way you can understand them and both are using victron products.
Aaron
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Old 06-23-2021, 04:23 PM   #71
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1955 26' Cruiser/Overlander
harrisburg , Missouri
Join Date: Mar 2017
Posts: 38
I used 300ah of battle born batteries and 405 watts of solar from obsidian panels from Zamp, because that is all that would fit on my roof. I don't remember what the total price was. I try not to remember, but obviously your installing twice what I did.
Aaron
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