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Old 03-20-2006, 01:01 PM   #113
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so many bulbs......so little time.....

others can correct me.....my understanding is that there are plug-in led bulbs available that will replace your bulbs....not the fixture...these are available in several flavors with different levels of brightness and number of leds......shop the online led vendors for your bulb type....the few i have seen are ok, in that the bulbs last a very long time, but they aren't nearly as brite as the factory upgrade noted by several in this thread....

complete led/fixture units are also available..... these are not replacements for the originals....but can be added on the bumper or rear skin...like the led units on utility trailers and boats......

i don't believe anyone has found a complete unit/led upgrade that looks original....for your model....

of course now that i have typed this....hopefully someone will put up a photo with the prefect solution...

mostly i think folks are using led clusters on plug bases that fit in the original bulb plug..

cheers
2air'
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Old 03-26-2006, 07:10 AM   #114
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Part number?

O.K. folks, we're now officially back on track. My Korean contact is on his way to China next month and will be working with the factory on some prototypes.
Does anyone have the part number for the Airstream LED board? Having a little communication issue with our AS dealer... attempting to send a sample over to China for a direct comparison.
Now the question is do we use 5mm regular LED's or the high cost SMD's like the AS unit? If we populate the board with 36 LED's do we need to use the wide angle LED's or should we concentrate on rearward narrower angle and let the lens do the dispersion?
Bottom line is that we are actually moving forward. Could be a "two weeks" solution.
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Old 03-26-2006, 07:13 AM   #115
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I have found red #1157 LED's with a 90 degree turn on the base, so the "bulb" will be facing the lens. They are a bit pricey, but they are plug-n-play.
www.superbrightleds.com
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Old 03-26-2006, 09:42 AM   #116
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GlenCoombe
Now the question is do we use 5mm regular LED's or the high cost SMD's like the AS unit? If we populate the board with 36 LED's do we need to use the wide angle LED's or should we concentrate on rearward narrower angle and let the lens do the dispersion?
Bottom line is that we are actually moving forward. Could be a "two weeks" solution.
I did put the 90 degree turned bulbs into my tail lights and I didn't see much dispersion. I would think the wide angle would be best.
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Old 03-26-2006, 12:28 PM   #117
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Steve, keep in mind that your LED's are concentrated in a smallish "bulb" rather than spread out across a PC board. The planned board will come close to filling the lens area.
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Old 04-03-2006, 02:46 AM   #118
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LED wiring

I have a 64 Safari.
I’m thinking about converting my Bargman 99s to run Grote #53432 LED lights like
DavidsonOverlander did on his 64.

I don’t have a wiring diagram for my trailer. I found a later model AS diagram that MAY be the same, not sure.
It shows:
Green – running light
Black – stop
Red – turn

My tail light has 3 wires.
Green - top single filament bulb
Black and red go to bottom dual element bulb

The new Grote LED light has 3 wire pigtail.
Black – tail light
Red – stop / turn
White - ground

How do I hook them together?
It APPEARS I can splice:
original Green to Grote Black for tail light
original Black to Grote Red for stop light
original Red to Grote Red for turn signal
Grote White to ground

Any ideas?
Thanks, Walter
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Old 04-16-2006, 01:22 AM   #119
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My marker light convertion

Hello all -

I also did the entire trailer marker light swap out with LED's. It looks TERRIFIC! It is almost reason enough to put the flasher in after dark... just to see that baby light up!!!!

I used the LED-R-US lights. They are basically a striaght swap.

I did do a couple of mods based on light location. I will try to explain here since I can't get the photo upload to work.... I need help with that, if anyone can assist me.

Back to the lights... The LED's are sealed unit, which is really great - no more water worries.

I will speak to the LED-R-Us lights from this point forward, as that is what I used.

For the amber side markers, the hole/ wire exit point on the trailer did not exactly match the lights pre-determined, pre-molded recess. Therefor I took an air-grinder to the back and made a 'new' recess that allowed to the wire to exit the trailer and fold behind the light.

At this point I should mention that the 'factory' glob of Vulcum ( on my trailer!) was somewhat tough to pull though the factory hole. This stuff was STILL gooey and pliable. Patience and a few pokes inward with a piano wire ( too loosen the hold) and out it came. As the wires were fed back in, I also put a glob of Vulcum on the inbound wires and a small glob over the exit point. Hoping for no water issues - from there at least!

Also, with the lights, the way they were shipped, there was a plugin connector for the + wire which I clipped off. Soldered the + connection from the trailer. Bingo. Never a worry in the future.

That brings me to the neg. side of this marker lights. The way SilverToy was wired, there was a neg. wire that was actually wired to the previous lights. The 'new sealed units' use a simple neg terminal at the screw location. My solution to this was to take the neg. wire and feed it in the recess/ channel that was provided. There is a channel that is molded all the way around the unit.

To address the wire itself going to the screw location, I used the same grinder as above, to provide a small recess/ relief in the rear of the light going to the screw hole - a channel for the wire to the screw hole. This worked very well.

Again, small! dollup of Vulcum on the screw locations so hopefully no leaks there either.

Hope this helps someone thinking about this great update and modification. Easy, great enhancement and fun!

Makes you trailer look better too!

Ciao

Axel
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Old 04-16-2006, 06:12 AM   #120
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Axle, it's not very intuitive to attach a photo. You can't use the "upload image" icon, you need to use the paperclip icon I think? I don't do photos very often and perhaps the moderators can chime in on attaching photos again.

Maybe a photo of how to attach a photo would help? I got it right, Paperclip icon, then click upload once you've located your image. Don't forget to upload.
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Old 04-16-2006, 09:51 PM   #121
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverToy
Hello all -

I also did the entire trailer marker light swap out with LED's. It looks TERRIFIC! It is almost reason enough to put the flasher in after dark... just to see that baby light up!!!!

I used the LED-R-US lights. They are basically a striaght swap.

I did do a couple of mods based on light location. I will try to explain here since I can't get the photo upload to work.... I need help with that, if anyone can assist me.

Back to the lights... The LED's are sealed unit, which is really great - no more water worries.

I will speak to the LED-R-Us lights from this point forward, as that is what I used.

For the amber side markers, the hole/ wire exit point on the trailer did not exactly match the lights pre-determined, pre-molded recess. Therefor I took an air-grinder to the back and made a 'new' recess that allowed to the wire to exit the trailer and fold behind the light.

At this point I should mention that the 'factory' glob of Vulcum ( on my trailer!) was somewhat tough to pull though the factory hole. This stuff was STILL gooey and pliable. Patience and a few pokes inward with a piano wire ( too loosen the hold) and out it came. As the wires were fed back in, I also put a glob of Vulcum on the inbound wires and a small glob over the exit point. Hoping for no water issues - from there at least!

Also, with the lights, the way they were shipped, there was a plugin connector for the + wire which I clipped off. Soldered the + connection from the trailer. Bingo. Never a worry in the future.

That brings me to the neg. side of this marker lights. The way SilverToy was wired, there was a neg. wire that was actually wired to the previous lights. The 'new sealed units' use a simple neg terminal at the screw location. My solution to this was to take the neg. wire and feed it in the recess/ channel that was provided. There is a channel that is molded all the way around the unit.

To address the wire itself going to the screw location, I used the same grinder as above, to provide a small recess/ relief in the rear of the light going to the screw hole - a channel for the wire to the screw hole. This worked very well.

Again, small! dollup of Vulcum on the screw locations so hopefully no leaks there either.

Hope this helps someone thinking about this great update and modification. Easy, great enhancement and fun!

Makes you trailer look better too!

Ciao

Axel
Axel,
All my markers from LED-R-US are still in the box except for the white one I installed on the jack post for illumination of the receiver. I have been wondering how I was going to relieve the plastic base and thought that my Dremel tool would do the trick. Now that you have been sucessful it gives me the push to complete that project. Bright aren't they!
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Old 04-17-2006, 01:06 AM   #122
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All you need is a light touch!

Craig -

Saw your white LED mount - I think I even asked about it and the jack!? Neat stuff.

Getting that 'new' recess for the wires is not a big deal. I don't have a dremel, so the grinder with a 'pointed cone' stone was the ticket for me. All you really need is an accurate sense of where you need the space, a LIGHT touch - do get into the rear of the circuit board! and off you go.

Not hard - heck, even I can do it!

Actually, before I got the lights mounted I played around with the LED's in my recliner. Used a 9volt battery and WOW! Seeing them got me excited and out of the chair the next weekend to get them mounted.

Whole job took about 3 hours - no speed record but then I was having fun, and there is NO REASON to rush that, is there?

BTW - posted this elsewhere but bears repeating here. Get yourself a blade type HD automotive flasher with 2 blades. This will make the finding of pos/ neg a LOT simpler - simply insert in the 7way plug. And you can use it in a pinch in a roadside emergency if you have to leave the trailer and take the TV for parts or whatever.

Hey, those LED's you are going to mount will make it darn near impossible to miss when they are flashing for all the world to see. Now, if I could find a decent replacement for the tail/ turn/ backup lights.... Those 90 degree bulbs just don't get it for me. Can't wait for when the LED's for this do become available!!! I'll be an "Early Adopter" for that!!!

Peace

Axel
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Old 05-20-2006, 12:09 AM   #123
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How to handle the 2nd wire

I just received our LED lights from the website everyone referenced here. Our Excella has 2 wires at each running light and I'm trying to figure out how to handle the conversion without cutting into the waterproof light.

Here's a question for our electricians out there. Couldn't I simply put a 'circular eye' at the end of the negative wire and just screw the light into the holes in the trailer? The negative connnection would be made via the screw going into the side of the trailer.

This way I don't have to cut into the casing of the light.

Mitch
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Old 05-20-2006, 07:31 AM   #124
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Swanny, you got it right. Let the mounting screw secure your ground connection. A lot of sealed LED units only have one wire and depend upon the mounting screw to provide the ground connection.
Good luck with your upgrade.
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Old 05-24-2006, 08:43 PM   #125
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Well folks it's about time... my Korean contact called yesterday to let me know that the LED prototype boards are on the way to me for evaluation. I'll post soon my findings.
Good things come to those who wait...and wait... Peking wasn't built in a day.
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Old 05-26-2006, 03:20 AM   #126
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You can count me in for a set when you get them. I just ordered the LED running lights, and I'll need some tail lights to match. Sounds cool!
-Kevin
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