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Old 05-24-2011, 05:47 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by Dan@LED4RV View Post
casarodante

This is an SMD LED and they are very nice. They are bright and run a lot warmer than the plastic type.

The tape on the back on all these degrade over time. The warmer the the quicker. If they fall down they can be reattached with hot glue.

FYI

Also, the plastic can be glued to the lens for a greater light out-put. Not with Hot Glue but with 68540 Loctite.

Dan
Dan,
I just recently purchased this exact SMD LED pictured, but the foam tape on the back of the pad did not work very well on the slightly curved surface of my ceiling fixture. As a quick way to reattach it to the metal part of my fixture (I've removed the sticky backing) can I still use hot glue? or will I damage the light panel? If so, what should I use instead and how much?
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Old 05-24-2011, 10:50 PM   #44
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I use RTV to glue mine up, if I do it right (use enough and blue tape it in place until it cures) it works out well.
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Old 05-24-2011, 11:52 PM   #45
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Glue

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Originally Posted by Ellie828 View Post
Dan,
I just recently purchased this exact SMD LED pictured, but the foam tape on the back of the pad did not work very well on the slightly curved surface of my ceiling fixture. As a quick way to reattach it to the metal part of my fixture (I've removed the sticky backing) can I still use hot glue? or will I damage the light panel? If so, what should I use instead and how much?
Yes, the curved reflection plate of a light fixture causes problems when it comes to having the double stick tape hold up a large pad up. And what is worse the larger the pad the less chance of making a good contact. Hot glue will work fine but the power should be off until the glue dries.
In the post before this one, SoyBoy suggests RTV and that will work too.
I have heard it happen both ways. The tape stays stuck to the reflection plate and the LEDs fall onto the lens. If this is the way then gluing the LEDs back onto the double stick tape should work fine.
The other way is where the tape stays on the LED pad and falls onto the lens. If the lens will stay in (and some lens have a hard time staying in by them selves because the light housing gets torched due to being attached to a curved roof) then leave the pad on the lens. It sounds crazy but you will get the most light out-put and it won’t hurt the lens. This style LED pad does not get hot enough to hurt the lens. Now the other style SMD like the kind we have on our B1142SMD18WW, and B1156SMD18WW etc. gets warmer and I’m not sure how that would will do against the lens. If you have that type LED pad.
We have worked hard on this style pad (pictures above), that allows air under the LED, so that it could operate on the lens (glued or not). This gives the most light and surely gives more than a cluster bulb.
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Old 05-25-2011, 10:41 AM   #46
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Dan, what do you think of the 1156/57 replacements that fit into the socket like a normal bulb? Do they put out as much light as the flat "panels"? The only thing I worry about with them laying on the lens cover is that they might rattle around, get banged up and start to fail during while on the road.
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Old 05-25-2011, 10:28 PM   #47
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cluster bulb

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Originally Posted by Soyboy View Post
Dan, what do you think of the 1156/57 replacements that fit into the socket like a normal bulb? Do they put out as much light as the flat "panels"? The only thing I worry about with them laying on the lens cover is that they might rattle around, get banged up and start to fail during while on the road.
Soyboy
What you describing is what I have come to know was a cluster bulb. An incandescent bulb has one point of light and a cluster bulb has many smaller points of light. The light lens is designed to refract from the one point so even if you had a greater lumen out put from a LED you might not get more light out put. Even though cluster bulbs have their place, most cluster bulbs don't put out as much light as a bulb the same size.
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Old 05-26-2011, 01:23 PM   #48
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Thanks Dan and Soyboy for the input!

I ended up not gluing the pads back onto the surface - just left them hanging loose in their respective lenses. And it actually does give off more light that way (as opposed to adhering to the housing). I'm quite impressed with these LEDs - seems just as bright as with the power hungry incandescents I had in there before!

Soyboy, you have a good point about rattling and banging around as the trailer moves. We are taking her out this weekend, so we will see how it goes and report back.

My future plans however involve changing out all the overhead fixtures with the fancy new (just listed it seems) super-lumen puck lights with brackets on LED4RV. Might even consider installing a dimmer to control all that light!
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Old 06-02-2011, 02:05 PM   #49
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Reporting back on the 'non-glued' LED SMD and trailer movement:

went on a boondocking trip this past weekend and the LED light pads laying loose directly on the overhead lens covers traveled just fine. They worked very well in fact ...and really helped to extend battery life.
Love it! Gonna go full LED now since we boondock alot!

Dan, quick question about your reading light WWspot4019: how much light does that one put out? noticed your site doesn't mention the lumens (or did I just miss it?) I'm looking at replacing old fixtures with these above the 'couch' area...

thanks!
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Old 06-02-2011, 02:57 PM   #50
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If it helps at all, I have the C9WWSpot Reading spot (just the chip, not a whole fixture like the model you're asking about, but the same number of LEDs), and it is quite bright. We have two of these in directional reading spotlights over our bed, and the actually produce much *more* light than I would have liked for the purpose. (If I switch one on to read, it illuminates the whole bedroom — not as much as would be enough as an overhead light, but too much for me to feel good about using it when my husband is trying to sleep). Dan, if you ever get a reading spot of that type with even *less* LEDs (like 4-5), let me know!

My bathroom pads also just hang there inside the light fixture covers, and though they haven't been through a lot of trips yet, they've been great so far.
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Old 06-03-2011, 05:20 PM   #51
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Thanks KerriO that does help...I was actually thinking of a brighter bulb replacement for a bedroom fixture and have now toned it down. Don't need to light up the whole br late at night while I'm reading and hubby is trying to sleep. Ordered a 13 led bulb instead of an 18 to replace the 1156 incandescent. And if it's still too bright (which it may be), it's going into the porch step socket outside!

Eventually I'll get a better handle on led lumen vs incandescent/fluorescent/halogen lumen...but for now it's trial and error.
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Old 06-03-2011, 07:30 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ellie828 View Post
Reporting back on the 'non-glued' LED SMD and trailer movement:

went on a boondocking trip this past weekend and the LED light pads laying loose directly on the overhead lens covers traveled just fine. They worked very well in fact ...and really helped to extend battery life.
Love it! Gonna go full LED now since we boondock alot!

Dan, quick question about your reading light WWspot4019: how much light does that one put out? noticed your site doesn't mention the lumens (or did I just miss it?) I'm looking at replacing old fixtures with these above the 'couch' area...

thanks!
Ellie,
Sorry it has taken so long to get back to you. I have been working on a new light to go in that same light fixture which is brighter. The new part number is 4019SpotWW1w for Warm white and 4019SpotBW1w for Bright white. I do have the power draw and lumens on the site. Telling folks what lumens are on a spot light is some what hard because the amount of light is differant at differant distances. In short having a reading light give enough light at lap leave is very important. This light does that very well. It also has a voltage range of 10 to 16 volts DC.
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Old 06-03-2011, 10:22 PM   #53
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Dan,

Since it was so dark where we were boondocking this week, I have been thinking about a LED night light. Do you have anything? I would like one with maybe one or at most two LED's. Even better would be one that would plug into the 12v cigarette lighter type power outlets in my Safari.

What would the power draw be on a unit with single LED?

Alan
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Old 06-04-2011, 08:05 AM   #54
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Hi
I have made several LED night lights out of the LED used in those Solar yard lights.
A 120K resistor (from radio shack) hooked in series with the LED I take out of these
and either wire it up to a cigar lighter plug (used in bathroom) or directly to
a ceiling fixture. Gives a nice moonglow at night. Would take years to run down your battery. .001amps. Also Radio Shack has small LED panel lights, all set for 12V
Also used these LEDS to replace the small bulbs in the monitor panel, ie power on and
Water Pump. Those switches do come apart.
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Old 06-04-2011, 08:06 AM   #55
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ellie828 View Post
Reporting back on the 'non-glued' LED SMD and trailer movement:

went on a boondocking trip this past weekend and the LED light pads laying loose directly on the overhead lens covers traveled just fine. They worked very well in fact ...and really helped to extend battery life.
Love it! Gonna go full LED now since we boondock alot!
Ellie,
Thank you for reporting on your results on the pads sitting on the light lens. I have found that so many folks try cluster bulbs and don't get the light out-put they want. The pads are the way to go if you wants lots of light. Cluter bulbs have there place but when one can use pads and want lots of light pads are the best way to go.
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Old 06-05-2011, 07:15 AM   #56
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power draw of a single LED

Quote:
Originally Posted by A W Warn View Post
Dan,

Since it was so dark where we were boondocking this week, I have been thinking about a LED night light. Do you have anything? I would like one with maybe one or at most two LED's. Even better would be one that would plug into the 12v cigarette lighter type power outlets in my Safari.

What would the power draw be on a unit with single LED?

Alan
Alan,
Just like Jim was sawing in the post before, the power draw is so small.
An 1141 bulb (most common in Airstreams) pulls close to two fill amps (1.91 Amps). Our bright white large pad pulls 107mA, and with a clear lens puts out 1195 lumens, and it has 42 LEDs on it. A 100 watt light bulb is 1600 lumens.
I said all that to say, a single LED may not me measurable unless you have a very good meter. You may not even want to because it will be so small.
LEDs have to have a limit on the power they get or they will burn out. The resistors have to be set by how much they can handle. Something that is already designed into a light is going to be allot easier. Something like our isle light F2WW28mm (mostly used in motor homes) which looks like a fuse could be put in a fuse holder and used. The resistors are built into the light.

This is the light.


This is what it looks like burning.
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