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Old 07-29-2010, 01:29 PM   #15
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1967 26' Overlander
bettendorf , Iowa
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Thanks for the links. I'll check them out. My Flex didn't come with the factory hitch. From everything I can tell - and I went to the dealer and we spent quite a while looking up the specs and parts etc. - the only different between my Flex and a Flex with a factory installed hitch (4500lb cap) and wiring, is just the hitch and the wiring. The suspension, oil cooler and everything else was the same. I got an aftermarket hitch installed for the Flex and its capacity is 5000lbs. So while I don't have the factory wiring and hitch, I believe I should be okay. The camping trip we're taking this weekend is about 1.5 hours away. Not too far, so I think it will be a good test. I'm getting the 7pin wiring installed here in about an hour, but the brake controller on 8/9/10.
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Old 07-29-2010, 01:42 PM   #16
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Just need to vent about my 4pin to 7pin conversion

Greetings jhenschen!

You may have a problem hiding in your setup if your hitch is rated for a maximum of 5,000 pounds. Your 1967 Overlander has a dry weight of 4,230 pounds with a hitch weight of 478 pounds (see this link). Neither weight reflects the weight of fluids (water and LP), contents (if any) of waste tanks, and/or installed options and accessories. My 1964 Overlander has a dry weight of 4,440 pounds with its options and accessories, and it easily approaches 6,000 pounds when packed for a six week summer trip. When loaded for a trip, it is a virtual certainty that the coach will exceed 5,000 pounds, and the hitch weight will also almost certainly exceed 500 pounds (hitches are typically rated for 10% of towed weight on the hitch). The figures that you mention may be without weight distributing components installed - - the weight carrying capacity is often 50% of the capacity when utilizing weight distribution.

Good luck with your project!

Kevin
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Old 10-19-2010, 09:27 PM   #17
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1968 24' Tradewind
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Bump Question -- Brake Controller: 88 Chevy to 68 Trade Wind

I promise -- I searched the forums and read quite a few threads, but have not found a direct answer to my questions. I have to take kids camping in two days and for a week, I've been puzzling over the installation of the electric brake controller.

I need to install this brake controller, going with a basic Draw Tite controller. Truck has 7 prong flat blade receiver, seems to coordinate well with the lights on the trailer, not the backups, maybe there is a switch to be made in the receiver, but the turn signals and brake lights, and the running lights work just fine.

I'm trying to check the wiring for the truck. I don't have a tester, but I do have a multimeter, but I'm not sure how that is supposed to work, either. (Please don't stop reading -- I'm working on it!)

A red-sheathed pair of 10 gauge, one black, one white, appears behind the 7 prong receiver and extends forward to the engine compartment.

The black wire goes to a circuit breaker, the circuit breaker goes into the alternator. Could this be a charging wire, isolated to the alternator for switched power only? My trailer is not wired for battery charging. I was hoping this would be the brake controller, all ready to go, and maybe it is, but the connection to the alternator has me scratching my head. None of the instructions or discussions in the threads mentioned the alternator, just the battery.

White 10 gauge wire is cut off just inside the firewall. I understand this might be the ground, which can connect to the negative pole of the battery or a ground connection on the chassis. Not sure which is preferred.

As for the controller: I bought a wiring kit with 10 gauge wires long enough to extend from the interior, through the firewall, and back to the 7-prong receiver. Blue goes from the controller, through the firewall, extends to the receiver, matches up with brake connector on the 7-pin trailer side.

Red goes to the brake pedal switch wire inside the truck, driver's side, under the steering column.

Black goes to the + side of the battery, but before the battery, connects to a 30 amp circuit breaker.

White goes to the - side of the battery.

The only wire that goes from the brake controller to the rear 7 prong receiver is the blue wire.

I was hoping the truck's wiring would have the brake controller wiring, since the receiver was there.

Am i right or wrong about the existing black wire between the alternator and the receiver? Is this a charging wire or is it the brake wire?

LIke I said, the trailer is not wired for charging the battery. BUT, the control center does have a disconnected device that could connect to the vehicle battery, to monitor the battery level.

If the red-sheathed black wire is meant to charge the battery, can I leave it, or should I remove it from the receiver and add a different kind of connector to the back of the truck, and wire something through the trailer frame to the battery?

And if the black wire was meant for brakes, maybe I'm in luck and can take this wiring kit back to the store (?). There are a few ways to find out, but what is best for not blowing my truck and trailer systems, but determining what I have?

Thanks,
Anne
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Old 10-19-2010, 10:22 PM   #18
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Thought of something: Canadian Chevy?

I was looking at a diagram of 7-pin wiring, with US standard and Canadian. My truck is probably from Canada -- a 1988 Chevy K1500. I bought it from a neighbor, and keeping it going is even more expensive than the payments for a newer model I sold to get out from under the payments! But I digress...

The lights, brake lights, and running lights, tail lights -- not backup lights -- are working.

I'll hook up the brake controller and see what's what.

I'll keep the Canadian schematic handy, too.
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Old 10-20-2010, 08:35 AM   #19
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Caution!

If you have a battery charger, use it to test the lighting on your trailer. The charger has a limited current source. The battery has an infinate current capacity and without fuses, you can blow stuff up.
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Old 10-20-2010, 11:18 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IndyAnne View Post
A red-sheathed pair of 10 gauge, one black, one white, appears behind the 7 prong receiver and extends forward to the engine compartment.

The black wire goes to a circuit breaker, the circuit breaker goes into the alternator. Could this be a charging wire, isolated to the alternator for switched power only? My trailer is not wired for battery charging. I was hoping this would be the brake controller, all ready to go, and maybe it is, but the connection to the alternator has me scratching my head. None of the instructions or discussions in the threads mentioned the alternator, just the battery.
That is an unusually well-installed charge line. They work best if they go to the alternator. It should be on all the time. The large terminal on the alternator is connected straight to the battery.

Quote:
White 10 gauge wire is cut off just inside the firewall. I understand this might be the ground, which can connect to the negative pole of the battery or a ground connection on the chassis. Not sure which is preferred.
The best thing to do is connect it to an existing ground point or to the alternator frame.

Quote:

As for the controller: I bought a wiring kit with 10 gauge wires long enough to extend from the interior, through the firewall, and back to the 7-prong receiver. Blue goes from the controller, through the firewall, extends to the receiver, matches up with brake connector on the 7-pin trailer side.

Red goes to the brake pedal switch wire inside the truck, driver's side, under the steering column.

Black goes to the + side of the battery, but before the battery, connects to a 30 amp circuit breaker.

White goes to the - side of the battery.

The only wire that goes from the brake controller to the rear 7 prong receiver is the blue wire.
Sounds straightforward enough

Quote:
I was hoping the truck's wiring would have the brake controller wiring, since the receiver was there.

Am i right or wrong about the existing black wire between the alternator and the receiver? Is this a charging wire or is it the brake wire?
Charge wire.

Quote:

LIke I said, the trailer is not wired for charging the battery. BUT, the control center does have a disconnected device that could connect to the vehicle battery, to monitor the battery level.

If the red-sheathed black wire is meant to charge the battery, can I leave it, or should I remove it from the receiver and add a different kind of connector to the back of the truck, and wire something through the trailer frame to the battery?
Leave it. I would suggest you hook up the wiring on the trailer to charge the battery. It comes in handy from time to time.

Quote:

And if the black wire was meant for brakes, maybe I'm in luck and can take this wiring kit back to the store (?). There are a few ways to find out, but what is best for not blowing my truck and trailer systems, but determining what I have?
There should be other wires at the 7 way. Usually, a brown wire for tail and marker, a green wire for right turn, a yellow wire for left turn. There may also be a light green wire for reverse.

If there is also, in addition to all that, a blue wire, then that would be the wire for the trailer brakes, and you might be able to find the other end of it, or a connector where you can plug into it, under the dash.

Be sure you hook up the white (ground) wire. The trailer brakes depend on it.
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Old 10-20-2010, 11:21 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IndyAnne View Post
a 1988 Chevy K1500
The 1988 Chevy had a trailer wiring option. If it was ordered that way, there would be a blue wire under the dash, folded up on itself, with a label that says "trailer brakes."

That was before the era when they came from the factory with four-pin connectors for trailer brake controllers under the dash.
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