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Old 06-23-2016, 10:33 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by aftermath View Post
JimGolden has your solution. Take out the two circuit breakers that go to your garage and replace them with the slim line splits. They will go back into the box leaving you an open space. Use this to place a new 30 Amp breaker and run your line to where you want to install the new outlet.

Make sure you research the size of wire needed to carry the 30 amps through the distance you need. While reading all of this I was wondering how large is the wire that services the circuits in your garage? In home wiring, without special cases or distances, a 15 amp circuit is usually carried on a 14 gauge wire while a 20 amp on a 12 gauge wire. A 30 amp requires a heavier wire and even heavier if going a long distance.

My house was built in 1924 but it did have a "new" 200 amp box installed somewhere in the 70's. We have had a new kitchen done, a new furnace and two new air conditioners. Each time the electrician swapped out the old circuit breakers with the newer splits. Always done to code and always passed. No problems.
This. Use "mini" breakers for the smaller existing circuits to make room for a new single pole 30 amp breaker. Run proper sized conduit and wires. $1000.00 from a licensed electrician doesn't seem out of line, out here anyways.
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Old 06-23-2016, 11:18 PM   #58
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There is a lot to AC power that many of us do not know. About two years ago someone shared an adapter that they had purchased to use on their generator on the forum. I found that the product had been removed from the market for safety reasons. I too was trying to use both outlets on the generator but my father, mr electric, laughed and talked about how you cannot always do that because of phase and other issues. Don't mix electrical sources he said just remember that ok? So, he started my generator and found that both were actually in phase but regardless he said, it isn't necessary as the generator will output the max to one plug anyway.

Houses are different as are circuits- like a different source. Anyway, I feel for you. Hope the best with the electrician.

Hi, I have one of those orange adapters on my Yamaha 2400 and it works great. If you have a duplex outlet that has one hot, one neutral, and one ground wire connected to it, this will work fine. The advantage that this adapter has is double the connections at the generator and a direct 30 amp connection for the RV cord. Not necessary, but a much better connection than a 30 amp to 15 amp reducer. [a reducer can shake loose, or fall out, due to the weight of the RV cord]

The problem with this adapter, and the reason it was discontinued, was because many contractor generators had separate phases, or separate wires to each outlet. And houses with duplex outlets wired for two different purposes. Common in some houses is a duplex with one outlet that is always hot and the other one is switched for a lamp. Also a duplex under the kitchen sink with one hot outlet for the dish washer and the other one switched for the garbage disposal. These would be very dangerous, but then again, why would anyone use this RV adapter on a inside of your house outlet?????
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Old 06-24-2016, 09:03 AM   #59
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Here's an option to consider and one that at least has built-in breakers - just in case...

http://www.streambrite.com/images/in...r-power-I6.jpg
I guess my initial post was not thinking so far out of the box afterall...Looks like Steambrite already manufactures something that achieves a similar goal. Pricey though!

http://www.steam-brite.com/mytee-500...0-p-14192.html
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Old 06-24-2016, 09:27 AM   #60
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Steambrite does not tell enough about that unit to get me to drop $350.00 on it.

Interesting, the sticker on the thing sort of shows two of them going to one other device.

It may be intended for the pressure washer equipment they sell.
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Old 06-24-2016, 10:22 AM   #61
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With no extension cord use, I would be willing you can run your AC and nothing else safely and effectively on a 15 amp plug.
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Old 06-24-2016, 10:26 AM   #62
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Old 06-24-2016, 10:48 AM   #63
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We have a 2,000 watt propane converted Honda generator. It has the power to run an air conditioner, but not the power to start it. So, we have a hybrid Magnum MSH-3012 inverter in the 2015 23D International Serenity attached to a 300 amp-hour lithium battery. When the air conditioner starts, the additional power necessary to cover the starting power surge comes from the battery. Pretty slick system.

If plugged into "shore" power, I always have a dedicated 30 amp 120Vac circuit breaker protected outlet to plug the trailer into.

A dryer outlet has two hot legs (thus the 240Vac) and a ground. There is no neutral to let one of the 120Vac legs power some other 120Vac device.

The 50 amp four wire power plug for the dual air conditioner Airstreams has two hot legs, a ground and a neutral. Thus one can have only 120Vac appliances inside the trailer and with careful pre-wiring study, connect the wires so the 120Vac load is close to balanced across the two hot legs.
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Old 06-24-2016, 01:24 PM   #64
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With no extension cord use, I would be willing you can run your AC and nothing else safely and effectively on a 15 amp plug.
Interestingly, last summer I plugged my power lead into the wall outlet in the garage with only a ~10" long adapter in the system. In my dim recollection, it seems like I could run the AC for a couple hours at a time before the little adapter plug would get rather warm and cause the 20A breaker to pop. This year, if I plug the trailer into that same outlet with same little adapter, it will trip the 20A breaker in a matter of a few minutes. I thought maybe my AC was getting sticky having not been run since last summer, so I ran it for a few hours on a pair of Honda eu2000i gennies. These gennies will run the AC just fine in "eco" mode, which sounds like they are at about half throttle--not sure how much the rated output is in this mode. Anyway, I tried plugging into the wall again after running on the gennies a while, but still no dice.

I noticed that the exhaust from the gennies killed some rather large patches of grass on my lawn, thus I started thinking of a jury-rig solution, and thus began this thread.
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Old 06-24-2016, 01:43 PM   #65
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I understand from some of the posts that you may be moving and are reluctant to spend the money. I understand that completely. I run my generators when I want to work inside the trailer in the summer. It seems the money may be better spent put toward buying generators which will go with you when you move.
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Old 06-24-2016, 01:56 PM   #66
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My trailer is completely empty (as a result of a multi-year full-monty), and I am finally at the point of building out the cabinetry, running the pex, and so on. So being able to run the AC just for this summer, will help me to get a lot of work done. Once the rebuild is finished, I expect that it will be fairly rare that I want to run the AC for hours at a time at the house, in which case, the Honda gennies will be just fine.

With all the cash I have invested so far in the trailer, you wouldn't think that spending $1000 on electrical work would cause me to blink, but heck, if it were easy for me to part with my cash, I wouldn't be rebuilding a trailer from scratch in the first place!

Just when I thought the oilfield was a precarious enough industry to work in, it would appear that the global financial house of cards is collapsing due at least in part to a significant card removed from the middle of the deck (thank you, Brexit). So my penny-pinching nature makes it that much harder to invest very much cash in a feature that the next owner of my house may have no use for.
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Old 06-24-2016, 02:15 PM   #67
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Interestingly, last summer I plugged my power lead into the wall outlet in the garage with only a ~10" long adapter in the system. In my dim recollection, it seems like I could run the AC for a couple hours at a time before the little adapter plug would get rather warm and cause the 20A breaker to pop. This year, if I plug the trailer into that same outlet with same little adapter, it will trip the 20A breaker in a matter of a few minutes. I thought maybe my AC was getting sticky having not been run since last summer, so I ran it for a few hours on a pair of Honda eu2000i gennies. These gennies will run the AC just fine in "eco" mode, which sounds like they are at about half throttle--not sure how much the rated output is in this mode. Anyway, I tried plugging into the wall again after running on the gennies a while, but still no dice.

I noticed that the exhaust from the gennies killed some rather large patches of grass on my lawn, thus I started thinking of a jury-rig solution, and thus began this thread.
Running your AC on low voltage for a longer time, which you did, most likely did damage to the AC and likely the breaker also.

The older AC had a low voltage warning light to prevent this.
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Old 06-24-2016, 02:20 PM   #68
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Old 06-24-2016, 09:07 PM   #69
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A dryer outlet has two hot legs (thus the 240Vac) and a ground. There is no neutral to let one of the 120Vac legs power some other 120Vac device.
I don't want to pull out my dryer to check, but I thought there were four connectors. Two hot, a neutral and a ground. Doesn't the dryer motor run on 120 volts? I think older dryers had three wires and newer ones have four.
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Old 06-24-2016, 09:18 PM   #70
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Why not simply change a few of his regular sized breakers to slim line breakers? Then you free up room in the main panel to install a 30amp or 50amp breaker and run the appropriate sized wire to the new outlet.

Sub panel is nice, but I'd look at slim lines before I went to that trouble.
You'd need to check your panel to see how many circuits are allowed. Just because you can put in a slim line or tandem breaker doesn't mean that it's allowed within the capacity of your panel.
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