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Old 05-30-2016, 05:39 PM   #43
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Originally Posted by Sjcjr View Post
I have a 30 ft classis. I keep it powered to a Standard ground fault outlet with a 20 amp breaker. My digital volt meter inside the airstream shows 120 volts with nothing else electrically engaged. If I turn on the rear 13.5 AC the voltage meter reads a steady 115 volts, which I'm told is sufficient to run the rear AC. I am reluctant to run the unit for any length of time until I further research the issue. Maybe the experts on this forum can weigh in!

My in-laws are visiting and my 91 yo father in law is using our bed so we are out in our AS FC 28. The high temp here has been 91. We are plugged into a 20 amp GFI outlet. We had no choice but to try to turn on the rear 13,500 AC. I. plugged in a voltmeter into one if the outlets and read 123 volts before the AC kicked in, 123 volts when it started, and 123 volts while running. I have a pretty heavy duty 20 amp extension cord and an adapter I got from camping world that locks into the 50 amp socket on the trailer with a 20 amp male on the other end. No other appliances and the batteries have been attached to the converter full time. Fingers crossed but so far so good. Neither the extension cord nor the outlet feel warm.
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Old 05-30-2016, 05:57 PM   #44
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At 123 volts, you will be and stay more than cool.


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Old 05-30-2016, 06:12 PM   #45
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The AS OEM 30 amp cord with our FC20 is #10 AWG and only about 20' long, so you will need a much heftier cord/wire for your 75' run. Like a #6 or larger [lower AWG number]. Please consult with a licensed electrician or wait for an expert to post here. Your current setup carries with it the risk of damaging your electrical appliances incl. the AC, plus a risk of fire or bodily injury.
I am not a licensed electrician but I probably qualify as an expert (electrical engineer) so I will endeavor to answer your question.

If I remember correctly the National Electric Code specifies #12 AWG wire for 20 A circuits and #10 AWG for 30 A circuits. Buried in there is a footnote "for runs up to 100 feet", since the code is concerned not only with heating of the wire but also delivery of satisfactory voltage at the outlet.

30 Amp cords are generally #10 AWG wire and assuming the wire is in good shape (i.e. not too many broken strands) your 75 feet of cord should not be a problem.

If the connectors between cords are getting hot, there's the problem. Give them a good look and replace either or both connectors as needed. Problems might include loose connection or broken strands at the joint between the wire and the connectors.

All of these "20 Amp vs 30 Amp" threads depend on a whole bunch of variables which nobody ever specifies. Offhand I can think of several,

1. Voltage that the power company is delivering to the service entrance.

2. Distance from the service entrance to the 20 or 30 A outlet in question. (Assuming it's wired with the correct size wire.)

3. If a 20 A outlet, whether it's a 35 cent economy grade outlet (typically rated 15 Amps, even if supplied with 12 AWG wire) or a good quality 20 A outlet.

4. Whether the wire is attached to the outlet with screw terminals or by the popular strip-and-insert-in-the-little-hole clips, which have a bad reputation among electricians.

All of which might explain why Joe can run his air conditioner off a 20 A outlet and you can't
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Old 05-30-2016, 07:37 PM   #46
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Why ??????????

Why can't / don't they make an AC unit that will run off a 20 amp circuit???

I have units in my house that will run off a 20 amp circuit'.


Also, bsmith said 75 feet to the power source, by that do you mean 75 feet to the Electrical panel? ( because you have to include footage in the house )

The #8 wire that I ran to my trailer that was 50 feet away from the house, ended up being 100 feet long. And my trailer cord is about 15 feet long. I added that up with a calculator and it came out to something like 115 feet, as I recall.
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Old 05-30-2016, 07:47 PM   #47
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Virtually EVERY RV air conditioner DOES run off of a 20 amp circuit every time it runs.


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Old 05-30-2016, 08:07 PM   #48
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Semantics…devils advocate? ( ????)

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Originally Posted by J. Morgan View Post
Virtually EVERY RV air conditioner DOES run off of a 20 amp circuit every time it runs.


Superat stultitia.
My AC unit is only ever run on a 30 amp circuit ( meaning correct breaker and wiring gauge)

Yes I realize that RV AC units will run off a 20 amp circuit.
But you are " not " answering a different question.

Why don't they make a unit that doesn't call for a 30 amp, doesn't heat up cables, doesn't call for a 3000 watt, or two 2000 watt Honda generator? They made house window units that could?
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Old 05-30-2016, 08:37 PM   #49
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Is 30 amp really needed

Virtually every RV air conditioner runs through a 20 amp circuit breaker in the trailer breaker box, 99.999% yours too if you run an air conditioner.

My air conditioner will run off of a single Yamaha 2,300 (2,000 constant, 16.7 amp) generator. (My a/c is very old and NOT energy efficient)

Common application would strongly infer that if a device will run safely through a single 20 amp breaker it will run through two in series just as well.

What happens if a proper 20 amp circuit is running current in excess of the circuit breaker that is protecting it?

It trips. It trips just the same as what most of us have experienced from time to time when there ars too many electric skillets plugged in in the kitchen outlets or when someone wants to use a hair dryer and a space heater in the bathroom at the same time.
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