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Old 05-19-2016, 02:22 PM   #29
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At home I hook up our Airstream with the 30amp cord connected to a 25ft 30amp extension cord and then use a 15amp pigtail and plug it into an outside outlet. I don't run the AC however one time I had left the thermostat on and when the day heated up the 13.5k AC was running when I came home from work. Trailer was cool inside but I decided to turn it off. The fridge was on 110v too at the time.

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Old 05-19-2016, 03:20 PM   #30
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One thing that was either not mentioned above, or I missed, is the electrical requirements and implications for 13.5 vs. 15K ACs. I also assume there are different specs for different brands?

I have a Dometic Penguin 13.5 AC. It is my understanding that boon docking I need 2 Honda 2000si inverter gennys to run it. It is also my understanding that the 2 2000 inverters would not be up to the job of running a 15K AC.

I really don't want to stir the pot here although I realize I probably am.
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Old 05-19-2016, 03:52 PM   #31
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Engineering discussions are fun. Here's what we know empirically about our trailer:

(1) We don't run Rocinante's heat pump unless we have a 30-amp power source. We don't try to do so on a 20-amp source because the instructions called for 30. I guess we choose to reduce the risk of a damaging voltage sag, blowing our host's 20 amp breaker, or pushing some electrical part or cable until it gives up and "lets the smoke out." That said, we realize our heat pump is on a 20 amp breaker behind a 30 amp breaker, and as a result it's quite unlikely that our heat pump alone would ever draw more than 20 amps.

(2) We have a post-it note right by Rocinante's thermostat that reminds us to turn off the electric hot water heater and maybe even the microwave before we try to start the heat pump. Without this reminder it's quite easy for us to pop the 30 amp breaker, even though the 20 amp breaker for the heat pump has never blown. So there are plenty of forgetful moments when a trailer with 30 amp service could easily draw more than 30 amps just long enough to pop the main breaker. Given this, we assume there would also be plenty of forgetful moments where we unintentionally draw more than 20.

Of course if you've a smaller heat pump / air conditioner, or just a much better memory for manually managing your trailer's overall power consumption to keep it below 20 at all times, you may be able to make the AC work for you on a 20-amp supply. YMMV, do what works for you, and let us know how it goes.
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Old 05-19-2016, 06:53 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J. Morgan View Post
Save the ancient Armstrong A/C that came with my trailer, I "reengineered" everything. Every system, every wire, even my axle placement.

Respectfully, whether any of what I wrote above matters or not is moot, because separate from any opinion, even your air conditioner (if you have one), runs on a 20 amp breaker.

The question was whether a 30 amp circuit is NEEDED to run his AC, the answer is obviously no.

(FWIW, Wally himself was not an engineer)

FWIW X2, I take no personal offense whatsoever when I debate, I endeavor to debate the issue, not the person. No heartburn on my behalf)


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Maybe, maybe not.

You are correct IF nothing else is running.

But, if the Univolt is doing a big charge, then it's current draw and the start up current for the AC, would most likely blow a 20 amp breaker. Still within the trailer, everything is normal.

Better to have a little extra available than to be on the short side.

When the 20 amp source breaker blows, then the trailer is being powered by 12 volts. Then when you reset the 20 amp breaker, it will blow again, because of the Univolt and start up current for the AC.

Certainly not a major concern, but not something to disregard either.

Andy
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Old 05-21-2016, 12:48 PM   #33
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Beware drawing conclusions from Observed results

Earlier in this thread things got a little hot and heavy regarding the wisdom of presuming that just because one person ran an appliance ok at whatever amps, it must be ok to do it again going forward.

Beware of drawing conclusions from observed results. In a hot and dusty country to our south its firmly believed that drinking a cup of gasoline is an effective remedy for rattlesnake bite, based on observed results. Well, gasoline is totally ineffective, so how come its "observed to work"? Something like 40% of the time, a rattlesnake doesn't inject any venom when biting humans. In those cases, people don't get envenomated and don't get sick (from any venom, anyway!), hence the observation that the gasoline treatment "works".

When it comes to electricity, I rely on those engineers - their designs, and their rules of thumb!
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Old 05-21-2016, 12:58 PM   #34
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Is 30 amp really needed

Likewise, all knowledge is based upon observation and compound knowledge is built upon the interactions of observed phenomena.

To arbitrarily discard the value of observation is to disregard practically all knowledge not assigned to pure instinct.

Assuming that the 20 amp circuit is up to code and in good service, and assuming that the cords and adapter are up to the task of carrying 20 amps, the implications associated with running a trailer accessories in excess of 20 amps is going to be limited to the damage that a tripped circuit breaker can impart.

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Old 05-21-2016, 02:49 PM   #35
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It gets more exciting if someone uses a 15 amp extension cord between two 20 amp breakers.
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Old 05-25-2016, 03:10 PM   #36
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Power cord advice

My 1976 Sovereign is parked 75' from its power source. I have been using a 25' 30 amp cord connected to a 50', but the connectors between the two cords overheat. Will a single 30 amp 75' cord solve the overheating problem, and if so, what size and spec cord would be optimum? (Parking the trailer closer to the power source is not an option.)
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Old 05-25-2016, 03:49 PM   #37
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My 1976 Sovereign is parked 75' from its power source. I have been using a 25' 30 amp cord connected to a 50', but the connectors between the two cords overheat. Will a single 30 amp 75' cord solve the overheating problem, and if so, what size and spec cord would be optimum? (Parking the trailer closer to the power source is not an option.)
Welcome to the forum! Hot down there in Texas?

All extension cords carry a number for their American Wire Guage (AWG) size. And there are tables for choosing the proper extension cord, depending on the amperage load and distance from the outlet.

What is the AWG number of each of your two cords? Is your outlet at the source a proper 30 amp outlet with its own 30 amp circuit breaker?

I don't have the correct tables with me right now, but I am guessing you need at least a #10 AWG 75' cord, and perhaps a #8, in one continuous length with no connectors/plugs in the middle. Will look up tables later if no one else does so in the meantime.

Are you pulling 30 amps in usage in the trailer with AC, microwave etc.?
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Old 05-25-2016, 03:50 PM   #38
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My 1976 Sovereign is parked 75' from its power source. I have been using a 25' 30 amp cord connected to a 50', but the connectors between the two cords overheat. Will a single 30 amp 75' cord solve the overheating problem, and if so, what size and spec cord would be optimum? (Parking the trailer closer to the power source is not an option.)
I'm not an electrician but do know enough to be dangerous. So maybe an electrician can chime in here. If the male female extension plug is overheating there is a good chance there has been some arcing. If you are considering a 75' power cord anyway (which will be expensive) how about cutting off the plug ends and splicing it together? Needless to say the longer the run, the more resistance and consequently the more heat. 75 feet is pretty long, maybe too long.
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Old 05-25-2016, 03:57 PM   #39
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Where there is heat there is resistance.

I would run all 30 amp cords.

Whatever is getting hot should be replaced IMHO. It might me dirty or corroded contacts, or it might be substandard adapters. ( if you are running adapters )


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Old 05-25-2016, 04:04 PM   #40
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Where there is heat there is resistance.
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Old 05-25-2016, 04:25 PM   #41
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Old 05-25-2016, 05:29 PM   #42
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My 1976 Sovereign is parked 75' from its power source. I have been using a 25' 30 amp cord connected to a 50', but the connectors between the two cords overheat. Will a single 30 amp 75' cord solve the overheating problem, and if so, what size and spec cord would be optimum? (Parking the trailer closer to the power source is not an option.)
PS to my earlier note --

The AS OEM 30 amp cord with our FC20 is #10 AWG and only about 20' long, so you will need a much heftier cord/wire for your 75' run. Like a #6 or larger [lower AWG number]. Please consult with a licensed electrician or wait for an expert to post here. Your current setup carries with it the risk of damaging your electrical appliances incl. the AC, plus a risk of fire or bodily injury.
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