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Old 01-31-2007, 10:31 PM   #15
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1964 24' Tradewind
Peoria , Arizona
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Thanks Phil,

I do plan on being hooked up to full service rv campgrounds MOST of the time so water volume isn't a problem. thanks for checking the heater out for me - I think I can fit it into my budget so it's likely I'll go the tankless route - it will also make winterizing easier.

Also, since you are a plumber, how about this setup: I'm putting in a grey tank and a black tank which will both have electronic dump valves that will tee into a main outlet on the side of the trailer which I can manually hook up at full hookup sites and then just push a button when I want to dump each tank from inside the trailer - no mess! Do you see any issues with that setup?
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Old 02-01-2007, 06:16 AM   #16
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Thumbs up Rv500

Quote:
Originally Posted by nbk3ad2
Thanks Phil,

does that apply also to the RV500 tankless water heater? Everything I've read on them seems fantastic and they are designed to run on propane...
Rather than beating around the bush, why not ask one who uses it.....ME!

I've been using them since 2000, first in my 40'Monaco Dynasty and now in my 19CCD. Installation was no problem and it works flawlessly. The main power source is propane , not electric so it is great for boondocking, plus it draws nothing until there is a demand for hot water.

I highly recommend it!

On the electric side, I would stay away from an inverter unless you plan to carry a very large battery bank. And speaking of batteries, I would use a pair of Lifeline GPL-4C 6 volt golf cart batteries in series as your power bank. They have the longest run time of almost anything out there, no outgassing and they will sustain many more charge/discharge cycles than just about any other battery.Lifeline Marine Batteries - AGM Marine Battery
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Old 02-01-2007, 06:59 AM   #17
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Sounds like it would be a slick set up. The challenge will be setting up reliable check valves so that one side does not wash back up into the other. Swing checks are what you would need to use unless the pumps have something integral that prevents back-flow. As usual the easier it is from the control panel the more complicated on the back side. I am using the Sewer Solution and we leave the Grey water tank open and the black closed till the tank is 50% or more. It is pretty simple and clean. I am happy for now. The main advantage to the electric pumps is there ability to pump up hill. The Sewer solution will pump up a couple feet but it is limited there. It does not require any electrical power though and still macerates using water pressure. They are about 100.00 you may want to check it out.
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Old 02-01-2007, 09:40 AM   #18
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WOW - i got my first RIVET! I have no idea what it means, but I'm excited! And i didn't even have to shave it!

Anyway Phil, i know this is quickly turning into a discussion about plumbing, and I might have to start a new post somewhere else on the forum, but for now, i'm just wondering - i wasn't aware that a pump was needed on the black/grey tanks and i was just planning on gravity to do the job and use remote sprayers installed in the sides of the tanks to clean them out - am i mistaken here? the only thing mechanical on the setup was to be the electronic dump VALVES - all they do is slide open much like a pocket door allowing the waste or water to exit the normal path which would be into a Y style fitting and straight out the hose (already in place) that way I could leave the gray valve open and only open the black one when it's 50% full.
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Old 02-01-2007, 10:26 AM   #19
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I just re-read your previous post. I thought i read something about a electric pump but I see you just said valve. That should work fine you just want to open one at a time. I would like to see the valves you are referring to they sound interesting. I think in the end the manual ones are fine by me because I will still want to be out there watching what is happening. The idea of macerating has the advantage of using a small smooth hose and getting away from the stinky slinky 3" hose. So you could still use the sewer solution or one like it you will just want to run water through the venturi while you dump the black tank to break up the solids. PM me if you like and I will be happy to talk on the phone. It may be easier. Phil 305-992-5974
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Old 02-01-2007, 12:11 PM   #20
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1964 24' Tradewind
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Phil, here's the best link I could find on the electronic dump valves:

Tote-Alongs

I'll hopefully call you later today - thanks for all the help!
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Old 02-01-2007, 09:49 PM   #21
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I looked at the web sight. There was not much info but I did notice a 7 second cycle time. I you ever use a portable tank and don't want to dump the entire holding tank that may be a problem with a 7 second delay.
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Old 02-01-2007, 10:27 PM   #22
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Would you be able to operate the valve with a remote control?

I'm thinking one of these:Wireless Remote Control RM01 to Switch ON and OFF for Any DC12 Volt Devices 12V Alkaline Battery REMOTE CONTROL-Best Computer Online Store Houston Buy Discount Prices Texas-Directron.com
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Old 02-02-2007, 10:23 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markdoane
Would you be able to operate the valve with a remote control?
I don't know about remote control - as far as I understand it, you wire a 12v switch anywhere you need to operate the valves from
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