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Old 08-13-2006, 01:58 PM   #1
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Interior Lighting

The 12 volt interior, overhead lighting in Lucy is quite glaring. Has anyone ever used a rheostat (dimmer) switch or is there something else that someone has done to dim or shade these bright lights?
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Old 08-13-2006, 02:45 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moosetags
The 12 volt interior, overhead lighting in Lucy is quite glaring. Has anyone ever used a rheostat (dimmer) switch or is there something else that someone has done to dim or shade these bright lights?
Hi Moosetags,

If you're talking about the lights over the dinette and pull-out sofa/bed, we removed those lights and put in mini-flourescent ones, as well as in the bathroom..We still kept all the mini dual lights on the dinette and sofa/bedb wall..those are still very bright for sure
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Old 08-13-2006, 05:33 PM   #3
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If those are 12v incandescent or halogen lights, there is no reason not to install a rheostat or potentiometer to adjust light levels. A good 12v potentiometer is available from Radio Shack for less than $10. They are easy to wire, I have done several. If you have flourescent lighting, it doesn't respond well to dimmer switches.
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Old 08-13-2006, 08:26 PM   #4
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You can use smaller wattage halogens, if you want it dimmer without wasting electricity with dimmers. Led's make nice alterantives with less light and alot less wattage wasted.
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Old 08-14-2006, 08:10 AM   #5
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Tips

Thanks for the lighting tips.
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Old 08-14-2006, 09:13 AM   #6
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Dim it

These work well and do not waste energy, because they limit the current electronically, not by a resistor that gets hot.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/12V-L...QQcmdZViewItem
I bought 2 of them for my 63.
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Old 08-14-2006, 09:44 AM   #7
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A good source for 12 V fluorescent and halogen lights is RV Salvage in Elkhorn, IN. We replaced the bedroom and aisle lights in Chummy from there. If you do not see it on the web page call them.
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Old 08-14-2006, 10:38 AM   #8
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In-line or replacement?

Quote:
Originally Posted by uwe
These work well and do not waste energy, because they limit the current electronically, not by a resistor that gets hot.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/12V-L...QQcmdZViewItem
I bought 2 of them for my 63.
Uwe,

Did you put the dimmers in-line with the existing light circuitry or did you use the dimmer as a substitute for the existing light switch? Hope this question is clear.
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Old 08-14-2006, 07:52 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by myoung
Uwe,

Did you put the dimmers in-line with the existing light circuitry or did you use the dimmer as a substitute for the existing light switch? Hope this question is clear.
The dimmers can go in line, or replace the light switch. There is a click at the end of rotation that turns the lights off. Each can handle about 60W safely. No need to use the ugly face plate and know either, it can attach by means of the potentiometer shaft, and accept a nicer knob.
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Old 08-16-2006, 11:12 AM   #10
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It is the three ceiling lights over the dinette table that we would like to control. These are not on a central switch. Each one is switched at the light separately. The potentiometer seems like the best and cheapest solutiion or am I missing something?
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