interior 110 v wiring

[cabmike1954]

I am starting from the ground up on my 1960 Flying Cloud.What gauge wire for 110 should i use and how much needs circuits by them selves

[Al and Missy]

Go by rating information available online. My understanding is that 15A receptacles should be wired with #14 or larger, 20A receptacles with #12 or higher and the 30A primary wiring should be #10.

The National Electrical Code, also known as NFPA-70 provides guidance. Free access is available. One example of a question that must be answered is how many, and what rating, circuits can be fed by a single 30A primary feed.

Al

[garry]

You may know this but it is a common mistake DO NOT tie ground and neutral together in the load center (breaker box) as is done in home wiring.

I would use 12 gauge to all outlets.
AC should be on a circuit by itself.

[waninae39]

Originally Posted by Al and Missy

Go by rating information available online. My understanding is that 15A receptacles should be wired with #14 or larger, 20A receptacles with #12 or higher and the 30A primary wiring should be #10.

Al

this is 100% correct

[rocco52]

I believe you should also use braided not solid wire. It is a moving vehicle and the vibration over time can cause problems with solid wire.

[Jammer]

Originally Posted by cabmike1954

I am starting from the ground up on my 1960 Flying Cloud.What gauge wire for 110 should i use and how much needs circuits by them selves

Hi Mike.

I would recommend using #12 (and a 20a breaker) for all the circuits. It is possible to get by with #14 for all the usual purposes except the air conditioner but the cost and weight difference is negligible.

Air conditioner and (if it has an electric option) water heater will each require a circuit of their own. If you are putting in electric heat that will require its own circuit also.

Everything else can share the same circuit or be divided across two of them, your choice.

[greghoro]

Originally Posted by rocco52

I believe you should also use braided not solid wire. It is a moving vehicle and the vibration over time can cause problems with solid wire.

Romex would be the easiest to use and is what Airstream used on my 2013 Flying Cloud

Romex does not come stranded for 10, 12 and 14 gauge, the sizes you will most likely use.


Greg

[USAtraveler]

Originally Posted by Al and Missy

The National Electrical Code, also known as NFPA-70 provides guidance. Free access is available. One example of a question that must be answered is how many, and what rating, circuits can be fed by a single 30A primary feed.Al

Also correct answer.

[StevieB]

Check out this thread:

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f37/...ed-162613.html

This is what happened to me when an Airstream Dealership restored my trailer 10 years ago.

PLEASE DO NOT USE WIRE NUTS!

Only crimp or solder your connections.

[DavidsonOverlander]

I used 14 ga AC (armoured cable) and ran most of it through the cabinetry, under beds, etc. rather than inside the walls. I used 14 gauge wire/15 amp circuits except for the air conditioner where I used 12 ga/20amps.

[lewster]

You are wiring an RV.......NOT A HOUSE!

Its far closer to a boat than any house and for that reason alone (house in a hurricane maybe ), you should avoid using ROMEX like the plague. If you are taking the time to do the job properly, follow the ABYC marine standards and especially their Standard E-11.

No solid copper wire.....NO WIRE NUTS...... crimp and heat shrink everything.....proper support for long wire runs.......use of ferrules on the loose ends of stranded marine wire (tinned to defeat the corrosion issue) when placed into a screw connector......I could go on forever.

A bit more expensive than going to Home Depot and buying cheap ROMEX that WILL eventually strain harden and crack/break but if you don't value the contribution of your labor then.........never-mind!

Do it once........DO IT RIGHT!!!!!!

[bibbs]

Do not use crimp connectors on solid wire! Romex has worked well for years, so do wire nuts, pre twist your connection trim the ends so they are even, and twist on the proper size nut. All connections should be accessible and in covered boxes.

[TouringDan]

Originally Posted by garry

You may know this but it is a common mistake DO NOT tie ground and neutral together in the load center (breaker box) as is done in home wiring.

I would use 12 gauge to all outlets.
AC should be on a circuit by itself.

Garry

Are you saying that the ground wires and neutral wires should be separated as is done in wiring a house sub panel box? Is this an rv code requirement?

Thanks, Dan

[bibbs]

Yes the neutral is separate, (floating) this prevents, the possibility of the shell becoming electrified. If not separate,the shell, would be connected to the conducting wires. Bare feet wet grass you would feel it!

[lewster]

Originally Posted by bibbs

Do not use crimp connectors on solid wire! Romex has worked well for years, so do wire nuts, pre twist your connection trim the ends so they are even, and twist on the proper size nut. All connections should be accessible and in covered boxes.

First, I NEVER said to use crimp connectors on solid wire.....I don't EVER use solid wire.

Wire nuts????? Really????? You are NOT in a house, where they may be fine. Ever see the corrosion caused by dissimilar metals inside a wire nut that was 'sealed' with electrical tape or just left alone??????

An RV is not that much different than a boat and marine standards are exactly where the RV industry needs to be!

The only reason given by the RV industry........IT COSTS MORE!!

REALLY???? What price do you put on YOUR safety?????????

Your rig......do as you wish.......but better quality wiring and especially connections should be everyone's goal! Do you think I spent many years getting RV/Marine certifications for no reason????

And no, you don't EVER connect the grounds and neutrals in an RV!!