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Old 02-10-2007, 10:37 PM   #1
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Intellipower Installation 1986 Sovereign - Help

I am in process of installing a 60a Intellipower into my 1986 25’ Sovereign Center bath. It looked fairly easy since I am leaving my existing fuse box, but since I am very much a novice at 12v I have a few questions.

Here is the situation. The univolt had three wires coming out of it. The fist was a thick white insulated aluminum wire (negative) that went to the fuse box and was connected to the ground. The second wire was a thick red insulated aluminum wire (positive) that connected to the battery disconnect and then to the 2 batteries and the fuse box. There it powered 9 out of the 10 fuses. The third wire was a thin grey insulated aluminum wire (positive?) that connected directly to the fuse box to power the 10th fuse which led to the control panel. I have replaced all the aluminum wires with copper 6 gauge wires.

So here are my questions:

-Should the thin aluminum wire be ran with a comparable sized copper wire or will the power from the converter over heat it?

-Should the thin wire be connected in to the 1st output on the Intellipower along with the main positive or should it be connected separately on the 2nd output?

-If the thin wire is connected separately on the 2nd output, do I have to have a separate negative for the 2nd output or does the one negative going to the fuse box take care of both outputs.

I appreciate any help you folks can give me (remembering my inexperience) on either the questions or if you have any other observations.
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Old 02-11-2007, 10:03 AM   #2
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If I read your post right, you are asking where the thin gray wire is to be connected? It is the wire that goes to your Power On light in the control panel. Do a forum search on Power On Light and you will find a number of solutions to this problem. On solution is to use a Wall Wart or some type of 110 v AC to 12 v DC transformer which is plugged into a 110 v receptacle and then connect the gray wire to the 12 v. side of the transformer. This will illuminate your Power On light because the 110 v. receptacle is live. You can pick up these transformers which power battery powered appliances just about anywhere. You may even have one laying around the house to experiment with. Hope this helps.
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Old 02-11-2007, 10:18 AM   #3
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Chris,

The dual outputs on the Intellipower are made out of a single block of metal, so it doesn't make a difference if you use one or both. There are two connectors so you can use the intellipower as a 'feed-through' from the battery to the fuse panel. Saves wiring to a separate post.

The size of fuse #10 will determine what size wire you should use. Probably 14 ga. if it is a 15a or smaller fuse.
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Old 02-11-2007, 11:00 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markdoane
Chris,

The dual outputs on the Intellipower are made out of a single block of metal, so it doesn't make a difference if you use one or both. There are two connectors so you can use the intellipower as a 'feed-through' from the battery to the fuse panel. Saves wiring to a separate post.

The size of fuse #10 will determine what size wire you should use. Probably 14 ga. if it is a 15a or smaller fuse.
Mark,
Did I read his question wrong? I thought the Intellipower did not have the connection to power the 12 v. lamp when the 110 v. was active.
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Old 02-11-2007, 11:21 AM   #5
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Quote:
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Mark,
Did I read his question wrong? I thought the Intellipower did not have the connection to power the 12 v. lamp when the 110 v. was active.
I didn't see anything in the original post about the power-on light, just a separate feed to #10 fuse.
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Old 02-11-2007, 11:26 AM   #6
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The intelli-P doesn't have the output for the thin telltale wire that goes to the control panel. That's where the confusion comes in. AS thoughtfully supplied a tap on the transformer in the univolt so that the owner/operator could see if 110V power was getting to the unit by looking at the control panel. Aftermarket replacements don't allow for this, so you need to improvise if you want to retain that function.
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Old 02-11-2007, 11:36 AM   #7
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I thought it was the "bypass" wire around the master battery switch, that powers the gas detector.

Oops.
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Old 02-11-2007, 01:16 PM   #8
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Thank you

Your answers seem to give me several options. I will probably go with the Wal-mart AC to 12v route. Thanks much for the help.
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Old 02-11-2007, 05:05 PM   #9
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follow-up

Just wanted to thank everyone again. It is much less stressful hooking everything back in knowing you aren't going to fry the whole system. Anyway everything seemed to work great and the batteries are charging.

Regarding the light, it really disturbed my wife's sleep and the prior owner had put a band-aid over it, so...we aren't going to miss it. With improvements in technology I have decided to just carry a plug in tester that will tell me everything is on, hooked up right and grounded.

Thanks again.
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Old 02-11-2007, 05:22 PM   #10
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. . Regarding the light, it really disturbed my wife's sleep and the prior owner had put a band-aid over it, so...we aren't going to miss it. .
My 9160 has a little blinky light on the Charge Wizard.

I assume you have the more modern 9260, where is the blinky light on that model? Or does it not have one.
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Old 12-08-2013, 06:53 PM   #11
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I know this is an old thread, but I have the exact same model as ckeysor, I was doing the exact same upgrade, and had the exact same question—man, I love this forum!
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