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Buttercup · 06-19-2005, 12:54 AM

I got our Intellipower in and load tested (as much as I could by turning on everything). It all worked fine. A little noisy with no load on it ( a few led lights) but quieted right up with a little more load. I noticed that the fan didn’t start up right away as I would have expected with a little load. I started adding load a little at a time until I had everything but the water pump running and the fan never came on. The heat sink started getting warmer and warmer and I was starting to get a little worried. I must have had close to 300 watts running:

·All lights

·Kitchen fan

·Main cabin fan (bathroom fan not working)

With all of that the Intellipower fan didn’t come – right away. After about 10 minutes with the heat sink getting warmer and warmer it finally started spinning a little getting faster – but never coming close to full speed. The heat sink temperature seemed to level off.

The whole time the voltage stayed within .04 volts of 13.7 – rock steady as far as I am concerned. That is a sweet little unit. Only complaint I might have is hearing some harmonics in one motor – might be my imagination. Wish I had an “O”-scope to take a look.

I did notice one thing the fuse for the kitchen lights did get pretty warm! Burned my finger but didn’t blow. I powered down and let the fuse cool. Then pulled it and cleaned the contacts and the fuse and reinstalled it – ran cooler. Voltage drop across the fuse was .09 volts – almost a tenth so there was some heat building up there. I cleaned up the rest of the fuses just for good measure. Might be a good PM to do every once in a while….

Sorry no pictures for a little while - computer took a digger.

uwe · 06-19-2005, 08:17 AM

Did you have it charging the batteries at the same time? I hooked up my new Intellipower yesterday as well, and my fan started running aftger a very short while, and would not go off for a few minutes. The unit also got quite warm.
The batteries are a new pair of Interstate deep cycle 27's.
I could only run 2 fantastic fans to put a load on the system, since I don't have any other users in the trailer yet, but it was nice to run the fans while working inside.

3Ms75Argosy · 06-19-2005, 08:54 AM

If I read the instructions correctly on my IP, the fan only comes on if it gets too warm. Mine hasn't come on at all (that I noticed while camping).

The noise thing, is another matter. Does it hum? It shouldn't. Mine is undectible. I haven't heard that any other member's unit makes noise. Can you describe it?
Marc

C Johnson · 06-19-2005, 10:39 AM

With my IP on and a full load hooked to it, the fan never really came on all the way. It actually shuts off, comes on, shuts off, just like its supposed to. The only noise I heard from it was when the fan was initially starting up.

Chris

uwe · 06-19-2005, 11:38 AM

Mine has a slight buzz, not nearly as loud as a Univolt, but definitely audible. My fan cycles in and out, and does so quite noisily. It's louder than the fantastic fan on medium speed. I am hoping that this won't be a problem once the cabinets are built around it.

markparker22 · 06-19-2005, 12:39 PM

What do you do with the AC Power On wire that used to go from the Univolt to the fuse block? I just installed an Intelipower Converted and found that the AC Power On wire needs to be grounded for this light to come on in the Panel. Today I plan to open up the old Univolt and see how it made the panel AC light turn on.

fastrob · 06-19-2005, 04:59 PM

Our '76 has problems usually related to corrosion in electrical connections.

Whatever electrical that has not worked, functioned after cleaning the bulb

holder, fuse connection or checking wiring connections.

Of course the univolt was replaced when it died. When our fan comes on I

know the trailer is plugged in and not draining batteries

Janets Husband · 06-19-2005, 05:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fast Rob

Our '76 has problems usually related to corrosion in electrical connections.
Whatever electrical that has not worked, functioned after cleaning the bulb
holder, fuse connection or checking wiring connections.
Of course the univolt was replaced when it died. When our fan comes on I
know the trailer is plugged in and not draining batteries

Another plus with the Intelepower beside having the extra power, the unit also conditions the batery for longer battery life.

Buttercup · 06-19-2005, 08:57 PM

O.K. Here are my answers to everything at once…

Uwe,

I did not have it charging any batteries. I have not yet put batteries in the trailer but I think it will not be a problem. I have to get the batteries but I will be waiting until August probably for that. I am a little concerned that you hear a buzz. These units should be very quiet. Even with the load I had put on mine it didn’t make any noise. Even with the fan on it was very quiet… I am not suggesting that you have a problem in any way but I wouldn’t expect the unit to make noise.

The whine my unit made was during extremely low current draw – less than 1 watt. That is barely on for this type of power supply so the noise was not a problem. 1 incandescent lamp was all I needed to get the whine to stop.

Marc,

This type of power supply is what is called a switching power supply. Basically, it chops the incoming power up into little bits, filters it because the chopping up part produces “noise” and then sends it on the way to the system. That is the very basic description. Transformer based power supplies hum because of the interactions of the windings of the transformer with the magnetic fields they produce, among other things. But switching power supplies don’t make noise because there are no real moving parts (like the windings of the transformer).

Mark,

I just cut that wire. I have to look into it but I don’t think it does much. I have my tech manual and I will look that up.

Gary,

My understanding is that the the battery maintenance the IP does is only if you have the “Charge Wizard” installed. I got it and without the batteries I bushed the little button. The voltage on the IP went up to 14.5, about what I would expect for an equalization charge.

This little device automatically monitors and maintains the RV battery.

It has 4 modes of operation to maintain the battery. The most important to me is the desulfation mode where it basically puts a high charge current on the battery for 15 minutes about once a day. This serves to reduce crystal build-up on battery's lead plates.

If you want more information on this, Homepower magazine has some excellent online resources to read on batteries. Specifically http://homepower.com/files/desulfator.pdf and http://homepower.com/files/battvoltandsoc.pdf.

I’ll let everybody know when I get batteries installed…

Tim

markparker22 · 06-19-2005, 11:42 PM

Found out today that the white wire (with black fabric sheath) from the old Univolt (AC Power On) connected internally to a diode bridge that looks like it was clamped to near ground (-) voltage for all or part of the time. This would effectively ground the AC Power On wire and cause the panel light to be lit. So after cutting this wire off of the old Univolt I will use a 110 volt relay from Radio Shack to switch this wire to ground (about 100 ma with the original bulb).

FrenchBern · 06-23-2005, 07:48 AM

ok but here's what I have found out in mine.
BUTTERCUP, The fuse you are using are probably .250 diameter which is smaller than the .282 diameter of the original AGS type fuse. Being smaller size they are not making as tight connection and that is partly why rhe resistance might be higher. Also if you come by my place i'll be glad to let you use my scope anytime.
MARKPARKER, you are right on the bridge diode in the univolt but it does not go to ground. It provides 12 volts dc directly from the secondary winding through fuse "o" (in my univolt model 35) to the power bulb. The purpose for doing that is for the bulb to indicate that the univolt is powered and has output. Since the house battery and the RV battery and Univolt output are all connected together thru fuses "M' the power bulb has to be insulated from those batteries otherwise it would be "ON" all the time even when Univerter is not powered.
When converting to another charger and using the old univolt fuse board the same results can be achieved simply by connecting a diode between the charger output the the 1 amp fuse powering the power lead going to the bulb. Naturally the "plate" goes to the 12 volts output and the "cathode" to the bulb. Now u know I am an old timer because of my termilology used. I'll be glad to provide any additional help to anyone at no charges.

FrenchBern · 06-23-2005, 08:30 AM

Sorry for my erroneous statement in last comment. I meant 2 diodes and not only one and the results will be the same only if you have an adjustable output voltage or a sensor lead on your charger.

Buttercup · 06-27-2005, 02:40 PM

FrenchBern,

The fuse is quite tight, in fact the glass cracked on one fuse when replacing it after cleaning. That will have to be replaced.

You are on for the scope viewing!

overlander63 · 06-27-2005, 02:53 PM

If the Intellipower is constructed electronically the way an alternator is constructed, that is, with internal voltage control and a rectifier bridge, it can damage the electronics of the unit running it with no battery. Even a bad battery would be preferable.
Also, if anyone takes it into their head to unhook the intellipower from the battery while it is on to see if it is working, it would not be a good idea. It can be charging at 20-30 amps, and if that amperage has nowhere to go, it can turn into a huge power spike that can do no good to the unit.

The Intellipower is a great unit, but it cannot withstand the electronic equivalent to running over it with a bus.

Buttercup · 06-27-2005, 03:00 PM

It isn’t like an alternator at all. It is like a computer power supply and will run the trailer and electronics quite safely without and battery. It provides it’s own regulation and is not dependant on a battery to keep the power steady.

Also I think the Intellipower would be able to handle a large load rejection, such as disconnecting a charging battery better than a univolt because it doesn’t use capacitors for filtering like the univolt does. Switching power supplies are built to deal with large harmonic loads so I think it would actually survive quite well.

overlander63 · 06-27-2005, 03:15 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buttercup

It isn’t like an alternator at all. It is like a computer power supply and will run the trailer and electronics quite safely without and battery. It provides it’s own regulation and is not dependant on a battery to keep the power steady.

Also I think the Intellipower would be able to handle a large load rejection, such as disconnecting a charging battery better than a univolt because it doesn’t use capacitors for filtering like the univolt does. Switching power supplies are built to deal with large harmonic loads so I think it would actually survive quite well.

So, that's a good thing. For once, newer IS better.

Buttercup · 06-27-2005, 03:35 PM

Yes it is a good think. If a power supplu can be made to deliver smooth power to sensative componants like the CPU while also powering up noise generating devices like CD/DVD Roms they have to be good...