My new Intelipower 9100 60 Amps arrived 10am today. Ordered it Monday from http://www.bestconverter.com/view_category.asp?cat=39. I looking at the installation directions I find two Chassis grounds. One is a ground to the unit itself, the other comes off the Neg side of the converter. Is it necessary to run the neg side of the system through the coach. Can it float like the AC ground? As I'm writting I'm thinking the trailer cord wiring comes in play here as it uses the frame for the neg side of the circuit. So what's the best way to run these Neg connections. This DC stuff is a little wierd to an AC guy.
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Short answer, it's required by code. Article 551.20(C). Minimum #8 AWG for the converter enclosure ground.
If you are using the body frame/chassis as 12V ground, then you run both the converter neg. and the converter chassis ground to the body, but don't use a common connection point.
Short answer, it's required by code. Article 551.20(C). Minimum #8 AWG for the converter enclosure ground.
That one I get. It's the DC system ground that has me guessing. Will running the second Neg lug out of the Intelipower to the frame cover me for the DC panel if the Bat Neg goes to the DC Panel Neg or common block with one battery cable and to the Intellipower other Neg lug with another Battery cable. Can I then use a one wire system, connecting the neg side of stuff to the interior shell or do I still use a neg run back to the common blockl? I guess I don't get using both a Neg to the coach and a neg leg in wiring stuff up, other than the need or desire to charge the batteries while driving and maybe the emergency brake operation. Both of which I can wire without bonding to the frame? What I'm I missing here. I do tend to need to fully understand something beyond what's necessary.
__________________ Let those who can play, let those who cann't rule.
I posted about a month ago my wiring diagram for wiring up my Argosy. Basically, the IP frame ground went to the chassis (I wired to the interior skin. The neg (-) on the IP went to the battery neg, and the other went to the white (-) from the 12v system.
My (+)'s were used for red (battery positive) and the other went to the fuse block)
I would run the neg. line from the converter directly to the negative buss on your 12V distribution panel. From there, I would run a fused line to the battery, and also a ground to the body.
Then you have the ability to run a floated ground from the negative buss directly to components like the refrigerator or an inverter, or you can use a bonded ground direct to the skin for lighting circuits.
The only circuit I know of that must have a separate ground wire is the foundation brakes.
I'm guessing that your '59 is like mine, didn't come with a 12V 'distribution panel', but I would certainly put one in as part of your upgrade. There are several nice panels available.
Ok, so I guess I'll follow the instructions. I think I'ld better go direct to the battery from the converter. With 60 amps I want to keep the run short. I picked up two #2 battery wires and cut the connector off one end and the wire fit the converter lug.
Thanks for reminding me about the big fuses.
__________________ Let those who can play, let those who cann't rule.
I am re-reading Bill and Jan Moeller's book "RV Electrical Systems". Taking to time to plan the end before beginning the start. Lots of pictures for sure.
Thanks
__________________ Let those who can play, let those who cann't rule.
someone mentioned "there are alot of good fuse panels out there". CAn you advise on where that is? I dont know where to start my search, and I want blade fuses if possible.
thanks for your help.
I just figured out how many circuits I would have, and went to a NAPA store and bought a 6 circuit fuse box. They have ones up to 14 circuits on the shelf, I had to special order the one with only 6. It uses blade fuses, and was very easy to setup.
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