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Old 01-25-2007, 03:08 PM   #1
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1973 25' Tradewind
Keewatin , Ontario
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InteliPower wiring

The Univolt in my 73 25' LY stopped working so I have installed the PD9160A using the DC load panel that was in the univolt.( I just drilled out the rivets holding the panel and made a new Aluminum Bracket to hold it in place).
My question is about the "Power-On-Light" curcuit.
1.When is this light supposed to be on?
2.Is there a way to wire this to the 9160 to replicate the original function of the light?
Additional Questions:
3.Should I keep the 50amp fuse between the Negative battery cable and the DC Panel?
4.Is the ammeter output adjustable on the DCLoad panel? The black wire to the Ammeter pickup appears to be adjustable.
Cheers!
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Old 01-25-2007, 03:41 PM   #2
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Finn, if you type "intellipower black wire" into the search box at the top of the screen you will be directed to 4 threads which should answer your questions. If not all your questions are answered, come back to us for further information. Note that "intellipower" needs the double "l" in the middle for the search function to find these threads. Happy reading!
Nick.
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Old 01-25-2007, 09:24 PM   #3
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Finn,
My '77 Excella Univolt was replaced by a Magnatek and my '86 Sovereign unit was replaced with an Intellipower. It was a long drawn out process where I was going to have to provide a 110 v. to 12 v. transformer (plugged into a 110 v. receptacle) which would then be connected to the gray ? wire to power the power on light. I decided to buy one of those yellow circuit checker things that you plug into the electrical receptacle and several amber lights would come on if it was a good circuit. One red light would come on if all hell was about to break loose. I keep this plugged in at all times to alert me that I am hooked up to shorepower. It is the cheapest fix you can make.
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Old 01-25-2007, 09:58 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davidz71
One red light would come on if all hell was about to break loose. I keep this plugged in at all times to alert me that I am hooked up to shorepower. It is the cheapest fix you can make.
Too funny David. Actually it was one of the members here that came up with the wall wart mod and I've shared it with several people since he sent it to us. I have not verified it yet but will and it's sure not a difficult mod.
I guess the main reasons is that most people say they don't pay attention to the power on light anyway because if the microwave LED is on, so is shore power! Of course, not all have micro ovens I know.
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Old 01-25-2007, 10:22 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by 68 Overlander
Too funny David. Actually it was one of the members here that came up with the wall wart mod and I've shared it with several people since he sent it to us. I have not verified it yet but will and it's sure not a difficult mod.
I guess the main reasons is that most people say they don't pay attention to the power on light anyway because if the microwave LED is on, so is shore power! Of course, not all have micro ovens I know.
When I bought my '77 Excella off ebay in 3/01 and went to AZ. to pick it up in 4/01, I wanted that power switch to work because all the other gauges except the LPG tanks were working just fine. I'm a gadget person and decided to check all my circuits with a multimeter and then with the circuit checker. It then dawned on me that this thing could serve a dual purpose. When the '77 went to Hamburg, Germany several years ago, the circuit checker found it's way into my '86 Sovereign. I also have a voltmeter purchased from Camping World plugged in right above the circuit checker.

Hmmm, microwave. Don't have one in the trailer yet but it's on my list to install above the fridge.
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Old 01-26-2007, 09:35 AM   #6
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So the "power on light" is supposed to be on when hooked up to shore power?
I know what wire goes where, that is not my problem, never has been, as the installation was very straight forward. .......except for that gray wire.....
Thanks Davidz and Overlander. I will finish up the install today and go to "wally mart" for parts
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Old 01-26-2007, 10:18 AM   #7
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Piggy-backing

got a couple of questions about the ammeter that's built into the old looney-volts:
I seem to remember reading that its adjustable? how does one do that...mine always says "fair", no matter what's going on.

how does this thing work? something to do with resistance across that plate, I would imagine...

can it be removed from the looney-volt, and re-attached to another fuse block (in the event of a complete converter replacement)?

if not, is there an available substitute?
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Old 01-27-2007, 02:45 PM   #8
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My uni -volt had the DC Load panel attached to it. But I was able to drill out the pop rivets that held it into the case and use it with my new intelli power unit. I did move the black lead on the ammeter plate but saw no difference in either the ammeter reading or the battery condition gauge. My condition gauge never gets above the line between fair and good, even with a fullly charged battery AND plugged into shaore power (intelli unit on).
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Old 01-27-2007, 05:39 PM   #9
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well, if there isn't any way to make the guage tell you anything of significance, i don't suppose there's any point in trying to salvage it.
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Old 01-27-2007, 06:02 PM   #10
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Here is what Bill Worden did to make his power on light work.
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