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Old 09-18-2011, 11:18 AM   #15
Rivet Master
2006 22' International CCD
2007 Base Camp
Elk Valley , British Columbia
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 657
The 'old' switch is a Sigma, has +, - and ground. In my picture, the ground is now bare, but it had a 6 inch long green wire going to nowhere. It is wired yellow to centre (+) and purple to (-).

The 'new' switch is also a Sigma, has the same 3 poles, seems to light when I go + to ground, and seems to run the pump when I go + to -. If I jumper the - and ground, I get the pump running, and a short flash of light when I turn the switch on and off.

I am guessing (?) if I can find any open - nearby I can run the ground to it... but the only thing handy would be to solder something to the control panel. I probably don't get a light, because the pump is running a sucks all the power, or the pump has it's own pressure shut off and will interrupt the circuit.

The switch is a T-55 Sigma...

The only possible grounds (-) that are close are some fat wires that run to the tank heaters. They go to lit switches, so maybe I just need to piggyback one of those. The odd thing with those switches, is they run a much heavy gauge wire to all 3 poles... even the ground, which if my experimenting is working is only to light the switch. There are 2 tank heater switches, so why not run 1 common ground to both switches?

Mysteries of the universe... makes me want to disassemble my whole trailer and re-wire it.
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Old 09-18-2011, 12:17 PM   #16
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Austin (Hays County) , Texas
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Any + or - marked on the original switch is irrelevant. It is also irrelevant on the lighted switch unless the light in the switch is a LED. The switch can be wired into the circuit several different ways.

The pump does not and can not "suck all of the power." Simply, you need to connect the light between the 12v to the pump and ground. Any ground (white wire) is fine for the light. The additional load is trivial.

Since there are 2 colored wires on the switch, I suspect that there is a ground at the pump and the hot wire is switched. That would mean that you need to wire a light between the wire going to the pump from the switch and a ground. If there is no white wire handy, the shell of the trailer is plenty good for ground. When I put LEDs on my outside lights, there was no ground wires anywhere reachable, so I wired the ground to the shell.

John W. Irwin
2005 Classic 28 "Sabre-Dog III"
2013 Silverado 2500HD Duramax/Allison LTZ
WBCCI #9632, TAC TX-10
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Old 09-18-2011, 12:43 PM   #17
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Broken Arrow , Oklahoma
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Try this.

Wire the new switch same as the old then jumper a wire to ground to the ground terminal at the switch.

If the light stays on all the time reverse the + & - wire at the switch.


Normally a switch is on/off with no ground at the switch the ground connection is at the device being controlled.

Ground to the light (built into the switch) provides a complete circuit for the light part of the switch.
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Old 09-18-2011, 02:00 PM   #18
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Morada , California
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As Garry says...

1. You need to identify the POS wire (use multi-meter)...hook to the POS marked tab on the switch...

2. Identify the wire going to the water pump and hook it to the CENTER tab on the can touch this wire (momentarily) to the POS wire and you should hear your pump running...

3. Attach a GROUND wire to the remaining tab on the switch - this will allow light inside switch to illuminate when switch is turned to the ON position...

See Dia below...
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Old 09-18-2011, 10:03 PM   #19
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2006 22' International CCD
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I guess the quest is for a ground then... the metal of the outside of the bathroom does not seem to be grounded... The switches for the tank heaters are near by, are 3 tabs, and light up... so I will try a piggyback join and see what blows up...

It is weird though, that I can get the switch to light up... but the resulting 'on' is separate from the on that actually runs the pump... do they not make a 2 tab switch that just lights up when you turn it on? Weird...

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