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Old 07-11-2008, 12:16 AM   #15
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Originally Posted by 2airishuman View Post
hi guy'

have u checked the voltage?

have u checked the voltage while using the a/c?

while the bone may be rated for 30 amps and u might expect the breaker inside to trip...

they often don't before the cord/contact is toasted.

i too had a 30 amp male cord end melt during one brief session of a/c and low voltage...

the lineman has given you the good advice in post 4.

cheers
2air'
Voltage inside the coach reads good (115-118) anytime I check it - but that is the job of the autoformer.

Voltage at the 50 amp receptacle read 119 -121 whenever I check.

Of course it is possible that there was a brown out when I wasn't in the coach. It's been hot but the power seems to have been stable. But since I wasn't recording ...
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Old 07-11-2008, 12:33 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by guy99 View Post
Brad,
I don't get it either. I guess that since the heat is being caused by high resistance, the current flow never gets high enough to trip the breaker.

In my situation, the breaker for the receptacle is 50 amp so I would expect the 30 amp breaker in the MH to trip if the current got too high.

The male plug that failed is a replacement. I searched and found the highest quality I could. One concern was that it wasn't water proof. So I just replaced the male end of my power cord by splicing a molded 30 amp plug onto the power cord. I then replaced the extension with a brand new one. I noticed that when I plugged the MH in to the extension, it went in very easily. Doesn't seem like a nice tight fit. I wonder if this is part of the problem?
Hi, Guy 99. You answered your own question; A poor or loose connection will generate heat and melt; And will not trip breakers. Loose recepticals at campsites can and will do the same thing. I always check for a good tight fit at campsite recepticals.
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Old 07-11-2008, 12:47 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by ROBERTSUNRUS View Post
Hi, Guy 99. You answered your own question; A poor or loose connection will generate heat and melt; And will not trip breakers. Loose recepticals at campsites can and will do the same thing. I always check for a good tight fit at campsite recepticals.
The interesting thing is that the old connection (which melted) did feel snug. The new one - new male plug into new extension cord - slides in very easily.

Perhaps the old one was corroded internally and caused high resistance and a snug fit.
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Old 07-11-2008, 06:58 AM   #18
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There's nothing "automatic" about an autotransformer. It is simply a fixed transformer where the primary and secondary share winding (although they typically have different taps you can use for different output voltages). If input voltage is adequate, using an autotransformer in a step-up configuration will provide excess output voltage.

In a voltage step-up configuration, it does input more current than it outputs, so if the trailer's 30 amp breaker is on the output of the autotransformer, the input can draw more than the breaker rating, and the 30 amp cord is not protected at the 30 amp level.

The pictures you show support the high-resistance point hypothesis, either blade to blades or wire to blade(s).
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Old 07-11-2008, 07:48 AM   #19
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There's nothing "automatic" about an autotransformer. It is simply a fixed transformer where the primary and secondary share winding (although they typically have different taps you can use for different output voltages). If input voltage is adequate, using an autotransformer in a step-up configuration will provide excess output voltage.

In a voltage step-up configuration, it does input more current than it outputs, so if the trailer's 30 amp breaker is on the output of the autotransformer, the input can draw more than the breaker rating, and the 30 amp cord is not protected at the 30 amp level.

The pictures you show support the high-resistance point hypothesis, either blade to blades or wire to blade(s).
The autofomer sold for RV's Hughes Autoformers :: RV 2130 has some control circuitry which only provides boost when the input voltage drops below a point. Some models have variable boost (5%, 10%, 15%). Mine only has 10%. I can watch it operate if I plug in to a source with a borderline voltage. At first I get the lower voltage - say 110, if I turn on a heavy load - a microwave or a toaster, the voltage dips briefly then goes up to say 115. As the device was explained to me, the increase in voltage is the autoformer detecting a low voltage and beginning to boost its output voltage.
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Old 07-11-2008, 11:27 AM   #20
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another idea to prevent this from happening again is to eliminate the less than quality male connectors and the extension cord.

you can do this by purchasing a canadian spec power cord from an airstream dealer. they have molded ends and are 10 feet longer if i remember correctly.

call a dealer and check it out.

the other route is to by a 20 foot generic cord, cut off the female end and install into your junction or breaker box. at least you will get a molded end. however, the quality may be dubious if it is imported.

john
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Old 07-11-2008, 06:21 PM   #21
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Here's the repair I made, feedback desired

Quote:
Originally Posted by john hd View Post
another idea to prevent this from happening again is to eliminate the less than quality male connectors and the extension cord.

you can do this by purchasing a canadian spec power cord from an airstream dealer. they have molded ends and are 10 feet longer if i remember correctly.

call a dealer and check it out.

the other route is to by a 20 foot generic cord, cut off the female end and install into your junction or breaker box. at least you will get a molded end. however, the quality may be dubious if it is imported.

john
I would love to replace my power cord with a new/better/longer one. I'm a little afraid to mess with the cord reel however since parts are NLA and replacements are very expensive.

Has anyone replaced the cord in one of the circa 1984 cord reels? What's involved?

Also, I need to use the MH on Monday and I'm 300 miles from any dealers.

So, I purchased a molded male 'pig tail' at an RV place. Then I used a waterproof, over/underground splice kit to attach the 'pig tail' to the power cord from the MH.
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I purchased the splice kit at the local Ace, but here's a link to the same item on Amazon. Amazon.com: GB Electrical HST-1300 Underground Cable Splice Kit: Home Improvement

This is what the finished product looks like.
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Other than the low quality of the plug on the 'pig tail' I think this is an OK repair.

Have I missed something?
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Old 07-11-2008, 06:49 PM   #22
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I don't necessarily mean it THAT way

I think you are okay with your repair.

IMO, it's the female connectors your repair will plug into that might cause you trouble.

But that's the way it always is.

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Old 07-11-2008, 06:50 PM   #23
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Have I missed something?
nope, i would have done the same thing if there was a cord reel involved.

i have taken a couple of those reels apart to service them, (we use the same ones on our trucks at work) they are fairly simple but the parts are hard to find and expensive!

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Old 07-11-2008, 08:43 PM   #24
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I'm not gonna complain about our ac throwing the onboard breaker when the outside temps get l0w 90's or over...looking at the toasted connections is worry enough...we use a 50 amp dogbone in fuller parks, as the 30 amp doesn't seem to carry the load when a lot of folks are hooked up and pulling the ac...
mike
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