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Old 11-16-2012, 08:36 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammer View Post
@Jim Clark: That diagram is so wrong I don't know where to start.

@JStanley: Connecting 1 and 3 won't do anything, you have to connect 3 and 4.
Want to tell me why? Older style plug?

Jim
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Old 11-16-2012, 08:38 PM   #16
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I made one of these and the middle is the ground.
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Old 11-16-2012, 10:07 PM   #17
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Here is what the manual shows;
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Old 11-16-2012, 10:16 PM   #18
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I got a two spade direction signal flasher (about $3.00) at an auto parts store, bent the spades slightly so they plug into the 12v and tail light slots in the plug. Looks pretty cool flashing.Will be handy if for any reason I ever have to disconnect the trailer and go for help at night.
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Old 11-16-2012, 10:55 PM   #19
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The flasher connects 3 and 4 in the plug to make the running and tail lights flash.

A wire with a fuse connected between 3 and 4 will keep the running and tail lights on.
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Old 11-16-2012, 11:01 PM   #20
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Two home made units.

Hi, I made these two light control units. 10Amp fuses will work with LED tail lights, but I changed to a 20 Amp for those with regular bulbs.
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Old 11-17-2012, 08:00 AM   #21
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Use the flat, red fuse.
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Old 11-18-2012, 08:38 PM   #22
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Thanks all! I just ordered one of the CamperLite rubber caps, I like the idea of sealing off the connection in case of rain.

Cheers,

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Old 11-19-2012, 06:39 AM   #23
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I was able to run a wire from an unused switch near the door (I assume it was intended for the valance lighting option) to a junction in the parking light wiring under the closet. It took about 3 minutes to run the wire and 20 minutes to get the wire cap back on (it's difficult to reach). It works great!
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Old 11-23-2012, 08:26 AM   #24
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Bob, can you post a schematic of your top picture?
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Old 11-23-2012, 03:27 PM   #25
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Quote:
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Bob, can you post a schematic of your top picture?
Hi, sorry, but I don't have one. It started with a few lines drawn on a piece of paper and other changes were done while in the process of making it work with LED tail lights. The white lights were added to give enough resistance to make the lights flash while in the flash mode. I also changed one or two switches in the process too.
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Old 11-23-2012, 06:27 PM   #26
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Thumbs up B/U lights....

Never wired the tear-drops....

But the B/U light's have come in handy breaking camp and packing the Classic's trunk.

Bob
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Old 11-23-2012, 08:38 PM   #27
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All of this talk about use in the campground is great but I built mine for use when (not if) I have to leave the camper on the side of the road for repair to the truck if I'm towed. Just remember - it will run the battery down of not connected a campground power source.

The simplest method is to get an automotive fuse holder with two wire leads - you can twist the wire ends and put them into the slots on the umbilical cable on the trailer. I did this for 2 years - I used a 20 amp fuse - that is what protection for that circuit in my truck for the trailer lights. The cost is about $2 at Walmart. You can use it later to build a fancy plug adaptor - just buy the umbilical connector for a car at Walmart and do the wire connection inside the plug housing.

BTW - it's also useful for running lights pre-check before hitting the road when you're alone.
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Old 11-24-2012, 09:09 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jammer

It is said to be poor etiquette to do this indiscriminately in a crowded campground.
I agree with Jammer, too much light in a campground is annoying.
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