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Old 09-02-2015, 12:58 PM   #15
RAH
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how to guide

Airstream Customer Service has a PDF of "How-To Guide for replacing side marker light". Jackson Center emailed it to me a few months ago. I don't have in on this computer now. I found the guide to be helpful.
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Old 09-02-2015, 03:44 PM   #16
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There are two types of marker lights. Older style had latches that were black plastic tab like latches. New ones, my 2015 had the newer style which are metal pieces that are about 3/8 inch apart that hold the lens on with the spring action when inserted into the base.

Spring model easy to remove, not so much with the older style.

Here's a photo of the newer style.

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Old 09-02-2015, 03:46 PM   #17
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Bill, my Voyager is on the rear center light and I use it anytime I am driving. I drive with lights on and the camera helps with passing and alerting to fast approaching traffic.
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Old 09-02-2015, 07:20 PM   #18
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Thanks for the pictures and then advice.
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Old 09-02-2015, 08:20 PM   #19
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Thanks Everyone

Quote:
Originally Posted by MelGoddard View Post
Just 'pop' the lens off, and drill of the mounting rivets. [1/8" drill might work.] Stow the wires carefully, if not using the wire.
FYI: Did you happen to observe that the running lights are installed backwards?
And this is 'supposed' to be a streamlined trailer!
'Streamlining' faces fat end forward. Look at any aircraft.
Gee, thanks everyone for all of the ideas, especially the picture of the dis-assembled light. As for the direction of the running light - no, it's in the right direction. I took a picture of the side running light since I didn't have a ladder to take a picture of the tail running light.
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Old 09-02-2015, 10:09 PM   #20
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Here's a photo of the older style light. I was going to use this one for hooking up and bring the power wire from the Voyager in the side. You can see the hole.

The challenge with the older style is that you need to CAREFULLY use a small blade to slide under the front and rear edges so that you can punch back on the locking tabs. And you do have to do both ends as releasing one won't help at the other end. New style lights are much easier.

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Old 09-02-2015, 11:21 PM   #21
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Mounting of Camera

I now have tons of ideas for power to a backup camera. Now the question is: where is the best place to mount the camera? If it doesn't matter, I might mount it near the listen plate light rather than on top near the tail running lights.
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Old 09-03-2015, 09:11 AM   #22
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Personally I like it up high. Gives a better down angle so you can back a bit closer to objects behind (especially if you solo 90% of the time. The Voyager has a great angle of view. Even up high I still see about 1/4" of the sky behind the trailer.

And this is just an observation but in rainy weather the camera is still usable. Plenty of airflow helps keep it somewhat clear and once the rain/road mist stops clears right up. Tip, I also occasionally give it a wipe with RainX.

And lastly a better spot for the antenna since it is up at the roofline rather than having the signal travel completely through the trailer.
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Old 09-03-2015, 11:20 PM   #23
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Thanks. I will keep that in mind when mounting the camera. Lyle
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Old 09-06-2015, 02:34 PM   #24
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I have a 2010 23 ft Flying Cloud Airstream and want to know how to replace a marker light? I broke one of the clips off removing it. Since it is a sealed unit do I just cut the wires and connect the new one with wire connecters? I am trying to install a Voyager backup camera and want to use the marker light to power it. It seems that I need to make another hole under it to run the wiring, Am I in over my head?
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Old 09-06-2015, 04:29 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by terrylarock View Post
I have a 2010 23 ft Flying Cloud Airstream and want to know how to replace a marker light? I broke one of the clips off removing it. Since it is a sealed unit do I just cut the wires and connect the new one with wire connecters? I am trying to install a Voyager backup camera and want to use the marker light to power it. It seems that I need to make another hole under it to run the wiring, Am I in over my head?

Here is the newer light with the arrow shaped clips. I think the base is the same base when the "L" shaped clips were used. Don't know what clips your 2010 has, but the new light should work--order from Airstream--cut wires and wire connect new light. Also, I would think about just staying with your old light. Do all your connecting then use 3M 5200 to basically glue the "broken clip light" back into its plastic chrome base. It takes 5200 a few days to set up completely, so tightly tape the broken light to it's base and don't touch for a couple of days. It will be a permeant bond.
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Old 09-06-2015, 08:13 PM   #26
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You can just put a dab of silicone on the light. It will hold it good. You don't want super permanent.
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Old 09-07-2015, 08:44 AM   #27
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Respectfully to BigVenture, I would not let silicone near my trailer--well maybe a SOB but not an Airstream. A dab of 5200 will not fail in holding your light, but you can remove it if you ever must. You will, at that time, probably have to replace the light and plastic base. Johnson center sells them both--buy now for a spare. If you still prefer to not use 5200, try ParBond. That is what we use to water tight seal the lights to the bases and it will act as a glue also.
After all this, if still in doubt, just replace the thing. You have 3 to 4 inches of extra wire inside the hull that allows the light to be pulled free and worked on. Wires are caulked and run through a rubber grommet. Take your time, spray with silicone, work them out easily.
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Old 09-07-2015, 12:11 PM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Howard L. View Post
Respectfully to BigVenture, I would not let silicone near my trailer--well maybe a SOB but not an Airstream. A dab of 5200 will not fail in holding your light, but you can remove it if you ever must. You will, at that time, probably have to replace the light and plastic base. Johnson center sells them both--buy now for a spare. If you still prefer to not use 5200, try ParBond. That is what we use to water tight seal the lights to the bases and it will act as a glue also.
After all this, if still in doubt, just replace the thing. You have 3 to 4 inches of extra wire inside the hull that allows the light to be pulled free and worked on. Wires are caulked and run through a rubber grommet. Take your time, spray with silicone, work them out easily.
Hi Howard. Just curious. I was thinking of using silicone to attach the rear camera to my AS since I could remove it if I didn't like the placement. Why 5200 or ParBond over silicone? Or were you just referring to the light only? Thanks. I am learning a ton on the forum as a new AS owner. Lyle
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