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Old 06-29-2007, 06:22 PM   #15
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by the way,

your trailer is not parked under a high voltage line when you are making these "tests" correct?

john
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Old 06-29-2007, 11:08 PM   #16
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John;

I will pick up the trailer on Monday. While I am there I am going to have them duplicate the tests in front of me. Not parked under any inductive lines. Not sure if they used extension cords but don't understand how that can make a difference any way. The voltage is high enough to tingle while on concrete in bare feet. Can't really be a complete short to ground from the positive side or I would test a full 110vac on the frame testing to earth ground. I am still thinking water is involed, such as water in a conduit where water usually does not go and perhaps the cables are not underground rated sheaths and somehow the water is causing a high short to the ground harness of the camper. I am thinking the dealer is not testing it how I asked using a separate earth ground. Hard to deal with techs that know they are much smarter than the customer.

Anyway, I will keep you posted when I learn more om Monday. Thanks for taking an interest.
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Old 07-02-2007, 04:24 PM   #17
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Well, I picked it up at the dealer today. Tested it while I was there . No trouble. I got home and fully expected to find the problem back. No trouble here either. Airstream Aliens are back. Be careful out there. All of you who offered help and ideas, your kindness and your time......I thank you!
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Old 08-11-2007, 08:59 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Earthcreeper
On my 2004 30' Classic I recently discovered "hot skin". I have read several other threads but need a bit of advice so here is the set-up.

From my 30-amp RV outlet at my home I have attached 2ea. 30ft heavy duty RV extension cords to my power cord on the trailer. The trailer is sitting on concrete, no contact with the ground/grass.

So, several issues at this point.

1. I have voltage on the frame when my #2 (110vac, marked BDR/Convertor on the electrical panel) ciruit breaker is on. From reading the skematic (can I trust it?)this breaker does feed the BDR outlet, several others on its way up to the "Converter". The skematic shows a converter off/on switch in line with this circuit near the door but I cannot find it anyhwere and I have looked behind the curtains and so forth. My '95 had it behind the curtain but apparently it is not there on the 2003 even though the 2003 book shows it on the skematic. When this #2 breaker is off the hot skin goes away. This tells me it is not the amount or type of extension cords causing the probem, I think. It also appears to have isolated this issue to this circuit only. In addition, with the 12dcv ceiling light on in the BDR, when I turn on the #2 breaker, I get a bit of a surge or brown out on this light. In other words it has a visible change in intensity.

2. This issue seems to be seperate from the first issue. When I test from an earth ground to the ground poll of the electrical outlet near the magazine rack near the front door I get 6-vac. This is with #2 breaker off but the others all on.

3. With only the Main 30amp breaker on and all sub-circuits switches off I get 1.5vac between earth ground and the trailer frame.

What is normal? Any idea what may be going on? I have not yet disconnected the converter from the power source and then turn the breaker back on to attempt to isolate but I think I need to do that next. I have used the plug with lamps on it to check polairty but that seems to be ok as well.

HELP!
Earthcreeper.
I had the same situation with my AS and I found that the trailer power cord was shorting to the skin where it passed through a hole to the back of the trailer. The cord was very brittle and had numerous cracks thus causing a voltage leak from the cord. After rewiring cord and the box, I now have 0 volts from the trailer to the earth. Did you check your continuity of the ground pin of your plug to your trailer skin?
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