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Old 06-20-2013, 12:25 AM   #15
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I hope you are running the two off the same phase...
You can buy the adapter at any RV supply; been using it for years; must be OK.
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Old 06-20-2013, 06:22 AM   #16
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I could NOT run the Micro or Convection oven...and definitely NOT the AC or AC Fan.. I did not use the FRIDGE at all.
The fridge is about 3 amps max, so it's fine on this cord. We do it all the time, almost literally - we usually start our fridge before the first trip of the year (March-ish), then don't shut it down until after our Christmas trip.

Generally the only things I don't use when we're plugged in that way are the A/C and microwave. Otherwise I don't worry about it.

A general note: the converter can also draw some decent power if your batteries are depleted. Our 60 amp converter could draw 6 amps at 120 volts, or more if that 60 amp figure doesn't take into account the losses in the conversion. Normally it doesn't draw anywhere near that much, but it's worth mentioning as a potential high-draw appliance since we're talking about that and no one has mentioned it. (It's easy to forget about it.)
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Old 06-20-2013, 06:40 AM   #17
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The Airstream website has a document that lists amperage of all of the common loads. Normal 15/20 amp service is good for anything except the AC and microwave, although the microwave by itself is fine. Never the AC, it might run but the voltage drop would force the AC to draw damaging current. If you want to run everything you need to install a true 30 amp connection through your home breaker box.
Larry
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Old 06-22-2013, 06:59 PM   #18
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After I ordered my Airstream I began the process of preparing its "home" (which is now a really beautiful shed that was custom built for it). I installed a connection for my sewer, put a 4x4 post in concrete and mounted a water spigot so I'd have running water when needed, then ran a 30 amp line so I could have full electric out there and use my trailer as a guest house. I bought the outlet at Loew's and I've also seen them at Camping World. I will admit that is was quite a job running that line from my breaker box, but if I do something I like to do it right. (And I didn't have to worry about some yahoo putting in a 220 outlet when I needed 110, either!)
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Old 06-22-2013, 07:34 PM   #19
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oh thanks so much, once again I've fallen into a thread of much needed info! this forum is great
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Old 06-22-2013, 09:38 PM   #20
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Excellent! Getting our first AS this year and this has answered a future question
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Old 06-23-2013, 09:08 AM   #21
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Another item worth mentioning is to make sure you have a good 3 phase charger/invertor if you plan to leave the batteries in the circuit. Otherwise you will ruin them in very short order as many here have discovered
I dont know what AS is using in the new units but if in doubt flip the battery disconnect switch when you are not actually charging and you should be fine.
tim
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Old 06-23-2013, 09:16 AM   #22
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My brain just wobbled inside my head....
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Old 06-23-2013, 10:16 AM   #23
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Another item worth mentioning is to make sure you have a good 3 phase charger/invertor if you plan to leave the batteries in the circuit. Otherwise you will ruin them in very short order as many here have discovered
I dont know what AS is using in the new units but if in doubt flip the battery disconnect switch when you are not actually charging and you should be fine.
tim
I think "3 Stage" is a better term to describe a good charger/inverter as "3 Phase" conjures up big equipment in my mind. Also an FYI for newbies, when you are on shore power, flipping the battery disconnect switch on newer AS does connect/disconnect the batteries with a "click" but the indicator led does not change state. It's confusing at first.

Just nit picken this morning. Brad
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