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Old 11-07-2013, 10:23 AM   #15
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Thanks, I had not thought of in-line. I have a similar plan with the shunt mounted on the fwd wall of the battery box. I will have to look at vertical clearance above the batteries to see if I can fit it in-line. Very helpful suggestion.
Larry
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Old 11-07-2013, 10:46 AM   #16
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I thought about the shunt mounted in the battery box, but in the spring I want to change to a pair of golf cart batteries, which will require making the box taller. With the lips etc, it is too difficult to fit the batteries and the shunt into the limited side spaces. So, the top mount works out well. Again, a piece of half inch flattened copper pipe with a twist and holes drilled in it worked out very well for me.
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Old 05-18-2014, 02:34 PM   #17
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What ended up happening? I have a 25 ft FB, and am ready to tackle the project. Where did you end up mounting it? Did you pull wires? Did you also deal with the sun explorer monitor?
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Old 05-18-2014, 05:19 PM   #18
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battery box photos

Since my posts above I have put in golf cart batteries which required raising the box height a bit and re locating my wires. I now have photos to show what I have done.

The first photo shows the top of the batteries with the shunt on the far left side, laying sideways in the negative side of the wiring. As I mentioned before, I used a piece of flattened copper pipe, with a twist and holes drilled into it to both do the electrical attachment and the physical mounting. BTW, the center two large wires between terminals are the old red and black AS wires to strap the 12 volt batteries together. I simply re used them as the connection between the two 6 volt batteries. A small fuse shows (blue wires), it is for the power to the tri metric meter. The other fuse goes to the power jack. Also note that there are two large red wires (+) and two large black wires (-) as my rig has the inverter option which has it's own wires directly tied to the batteries.

The second photo shows the shunt up closer.

The third photo shows how I raised the top of the battery box. I used 1 1/2 inch c channel aluminum and the original box lid.

The forth photo shows the blue plastic I lay over the top of the batteries, as a just in case situation to guard against shorts from the aluminum box top as well as some water and dirt protection.
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Old 05-18-2014, 07:23 PM   #19
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I had just enough room to install the shunt in the battery box -- next to the two Lifeline AGM's. "Just enough" means that if I need to remove a battery, I have to "deinstall" the shunt. I weighed this carefully and decided that having it right next to the negative terminal far outweighed having to undo it if I have to pull a battery. Hopefully, with the AGM's that isn't going to be for at least three years. While you have a FB, I was able to put my monitor on the wall just adjacent to my electrical panel and pull wires quite easily. Lucky, I guess.
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Old 08-14-2014, 04:48 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lsbrodsky View Post
Thanks, I had not thought of in-line. I have a similar plan with the shunt mounted on the fwd wall of the battery box. I will have to look at vertical clearance above the batteries to see if I can fit it in-line. Very helpful suggestion.
Larry
Noticed your post after I did the install and wondered what you ended up doing? I did consult Bogart Engineering and it was strongly suggested that I mount the shunt under the bed away from any possibility of moisture. Had to rearrange some if the electronics ( I have the same setup as you) but in the end was able to reroute all the cables and attach to the shunt.
I feel better knowing it will be dry under there.


George
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Old 08-14-2014, 04:55 PM   #21
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I did mount the shunt in the battery box. I think I created a thread with some pictures last year when I did it. I only needed one new short cable, also in the battery box. It never seems to get wet in there so I am not worried.
Larry
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