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Old 03-14-2008, 12:05 PM   #1
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1969 29' Ambassador
orange Park , Florida
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Cool Help, First time post, Electrical question

I am new to the posting thing. I have been looking through the forums for about 2 months, there are a bunch of good questions and great answers here. My name is John and wifes name is Kathy.We have recently aquired a 69 29ft ambassador international.Rough shape I would say according to some of the posts here, but I am up to the task of getting it strait. My first question is for someone who might own a 69 29 ft ambass. The fuse block connected to batt and to convertor has 7 fuses.I can see where there are 4 40a fuses 2 for convertor,2 for main wires from back to front panel. There was a 30a inbetween the 2 sets of 40s. The top fuse was a 7.5 amp and the 2nd fuse down was a 40a (wrong size wires for 40a though. I would like to know what the proper fuse rating would be and the order they are in if anyone could help. Thanks in adance for any help I can get and I,m sure there will be many more questions to come.

Thanks, John
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Old 03-14-2008, 01:30 PM   #2
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John,

You'll to post a photo, as the fuze blocks vary year to year and maybe even model to model. Here's an example from the 1975 maintenance manual for a Sovereign:

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The '77 Safari panel is much more complex and three times as big, with two battery positive and two negative leads all fused and 7 trailer 12V circuits, as well as fuses for all the running, stop and backup lights.

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Old 03-14-2008, 02:43 PM   #3
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1969 29' Ambassador
orange Park , Florida
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Thanks Zep,
I will try to post pic. I don't even know if this panel was even located in correct spot.I was riveted in the curb side of the trunk.From what I have read there were no svc manuals in 69 they just had owners manuals. I did get one of these but the electrical schedmatic is so vague.I have nothing compared to your pics. Thanks again
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Old 03-14-2008, 03:52 PM   #4
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If you have the original Univolt, you may want to consider upgrading to a Inteli-Power and a modern Fuse panel.

Vintage Trailer has a good selection of parts..

Vintage Trailer Supply - Vintage travel trailer parts and supplies!

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Old 03-14-2008, 06:33 PM   #5
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1969 29' Ambassador
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Thanks for the info Balrgn,
reading throughout the postings I see that a lot of people seem to be converting to the Inteli-Power. When we got this beast nothing electrical worked except the non RV refer(strait 110 volt unit).Found 40A fuse from convertor blown.Replaced fuse with circuit brealer and replaced some bulbs and repaired 2 switches now have all lights and fans. Anyone have any idea where the orig fuse panel correctly located?
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Old 03-14-2008, 07:36 PM   #6
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original fuse panel in 69 was mounted in the rear compartment on the curb side. Metal plate that held it from the frame of the door. Had the fuse block and the ammeter resister. I don't have a pic handy but can take one of what is in our 69 tradewind if that helps.
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Old 03-17-2008, 06:48 PM   #7
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1969 29' Ambassador
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hope this works

Finally I hope to bring pics into this post. Here are my fuse panel pics. The top 2 wires on the right are grey and go to the amp meter. Does any one know if these are supposed to be fused or are they supposed to be connected directly to the plate? Also are there any issues with replacing the fuses with resetable circuit breakers?
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Old 03-17-2008, 06:54 PM   #8
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yes, wires to ammeter should be fuzed, like small, 4 amps (or less). they carry about 100 milliamps max.

Don't replace regular circuit fuzes with intermittent breakers. The tow vehicle charge line is fuzed that way because sometimes the battery gets discharged to the point that it draws a lot (for a minute or two). The tow vehicle can correct this over time with bursts of current, and then you're back to good shape.

On the other hand, when a branch circuit blows, it's because there is a problem that you must fix--(1)don't turn on all the lights on the same circuit with the water pump or (2) something worse, but fix it.

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Old 03-17-2008, 07:06 PM   #9
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Thanks Zep for the response, I was about to redo the fuse panel with circuit breakers. Now I will have to rethink my route of repair. I would really like to get away from the glass fuses, we'll see Thanks again
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Old 03-17-2008, 07:47 PM   #10
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If you're going to replace the fuse panel, you might consider an automotive type panel. I've read that they now have fuses with little LED lights inside them that light up when the fuse blows. I've never seen or used them, but it is a neat idea.
Good luck
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Old 03-17-2008, 07:56 PM   #11
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We replaced the Univolt with an Intellipower and the fuse panel with one like in balrgn's post. It's not cheap, but it gives you piece of mind and everything works, quietly too.
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Old 03-17-2008, 08:09 PM   #12
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converting the existing panel to minifuses with just a fuse puller is possible.

I forgot who originally posted it, but a thread got us interested in these so we didn't need to replace the panel. only book marked the site, not the thread.

price for pack of ten isn't bad

AGC to ATO/ATC or MINI Fuse Converter

if you need breakers they have

Mini Circuit Breakers

they are on our order list, down the road a bit.
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Old 03-18-2008, 10:26 AM   #13
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1969 29' Ambassador
orange Park , Florida
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Thanks Herrgirdner,Juel,And Goransons. The auto fuse holder is a great idea with the exception that 90 percent of the fuses in this panel are 40 amp. There are no small circuit fuses comming from the back. Even the fuse panel you can get from Vintage Trailer supply max rating is 30 amp as with all the other fuse panels I have looked at. I wanted to upgrade from the glass fuses to push in maxi fuses as they go higher in amp ratings than the smaller plastic push in fuses. I think I have found what I am looking for at a Automobile radio install shop. I had to order today and hope they carry the stuff at the local warehouse.If they do I will do the install and post a pic of the upgrade in the next day or two.
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Old 03-19-2008, 07:40 PM   #14
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1969 29' Ambassador
orange Park , Florida
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Finally Got my 12 volts back

I finally got my fuse holders for the main 12 volt system today and I got them installed tonight. The only issue I have with the set up is the allen wrench screws that hold the wires on the 8 gauge side. Two of them were 1/8th the other 4 were 3 mm. I am going to find out if I can get some stainless bolts to change them out with. Still waiting on small 2 fuse holder to run the ammeter, I will install these on the upper section above whats there. Here are 2 pics of what I did.
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Old 03-19-2008, 07:43 PM   #15
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One more question on this, where does the battery go on a 69 Ambassador? In the rear or side compartment and what does it sit on? Ant pics would be helpful, Thanks
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Old 03-19-2008, 08:12 PM   #16
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It is in the rear compartment, basically centered behind the license plate. I don't have a pic because I haven't installed the new battery tray. In ours it was a steel (very rusted) "U" shaped piece of metal that straddled the shower drain line, then a standard automotive type battery tray on top of that. I've got to finish putting together our new one, made out of scrap stainless I had around, then will use a battery tray with a plastic battery box above that.
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Old 03-19-2008, 08:26 PM   #17
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Thanks Goransons, ours had no tray, battery, nor hold down back there. It didn't look like there was room for a battery to sit flat back there. Now I know that I have to build the saddle over drain. Thanks again
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