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Old 01-14-2012, 11:06 AM   #15
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The button on the GFI breaker is not a reset, it is a test button. If the breaker is tripped you must switch it to the off position and then back to on. If you push the button on the front it will trip again and you will be right back where you started.
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Old 01-14-2012, 11:41 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jkcru View Post
Your Univolt probaly pluged into an outlet under the sink or such. Reconnect the Univolt wire to the ckt bkr and check.
Hi jkcru
According to what we saw in other threads yes.
But this one it was hard-wired to the main box with 1 individual braker for it.
Does it sounds right?
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Old 01-14-2012, 11:45 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by TG Twinkie View Post
The button on the GFI breaker is not a reset, it is a test button. If the breaker is tripped you must switch it to the off position and then back to on. If you push the button on the front it will trip again and you will be right back where you started.
Hi TG
Nothing like that on this trailer.
just simple brakers
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Old 01-15-2012, 10:05 AM   #18
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just thinking about it...
The 1972 has only 2 brakers but the 1973 has 4? a main and then 3 for the distribution
here are some pics
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Old 01-20-2012, 09:28 PM   #19
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Just as an update.
got back to work at the trailer today.
No power at the outside outlets and I still can figure this out.
does anyone has like a "3D" of where the wires are running between the panels?
At this point I'm ready to rewire the whole trailer but I never totally gutted one to the point that you are able to see the wiring.
So if someone has a "3D" vision for the 120V and for the 12V that will be sweet!
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Old 01-21-2012, 08:59 PM   #20
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Problem Solved

Thanks to everybody's time.
Since nothing was making sense we just decided to bypass one outside outlet at the time and guess what
Problem solved
Thanks again guys for all the help.
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Old 01-21-2012, 09:31 PM   #21
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So that outlet is bad, and most likely could be replaced...

My '66 was like that: all the outlets were wired from one to another. So the wires went from the outlet closest to the panel box, then went to the next closest, and so on. If a connection was bad, or is connected, all other outlets down line would also be out.
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Old 01-21-2012, 09:53 PM   #22
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I am not sure what you mean that you bypassed the outlet or even why you would do that. If the receptacle is not good, I would just replace the receptacle. If you don't replace the outside receptacle then you will not have any power available to plug into the outside and now have to run an extension cord to an inside outlet. Just replace the outside outlet (receptacle) and fix the problem once and for all.

Dan
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Old 01-22-2012, 09:03 PM   #23
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Well. the by pass was for testing purposes only.
Disconnecting the outlet and "bypassing" if correct the issue and it will be replaced.
Now the question is like GetOutDoors is saying: If a connection was bad, or is connected, all other outlets down line would also be out.
I'm surprised that all the outlets are in one circuit.
Why is it that in the 12V system every ceiling light-fan has its own circuit but this is not the case on the 120V?
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Old 01-22-2012, 09:08 PM   #24
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Ease of wiring on the assembly line

Think as if your trailer is an 8' x 31' room. Easier to run from outlet to outlet on one side of the trailer than to break the run into two separate circuit runs of wire. Ed
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