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Old 10-02-2007, 05:55 PM   #1
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Great News! The Water Main Burst!

Not the one in the Airstream, the one to the house. Why is that good news? Because now I have to go rent one of those Ditch Witch what-cha-ma-call-its this weekend to replace the main coming up from the street to the house. AND, at the same time, I finally have the chance to dig a ditch out to the Airstream to run 30 Amp service.

So, for those who have done it, any general advice? The only special consideration (AFAIK) is that the electric conduit will pass over the top of the gas line coming into the house. Iíve already had all the underground stuff marked by the utilities, so I have a basic idea of where everything is. Frost isnít a real issues here in Georgia. I assume bury it a foot or so and Iíll be ok.

Thanks in advance, etc, etc.

Jim
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Old 10-02-2007, 06:01 PM   #2
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only a foot deep? is there any chance that it will be near a garden or future location for a fence post? what, no line for the tv? ;-)

running the line for the airstream.........priceless!
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Old 10-02-2007, 06:05 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim & Susan
So, for those who have done it, any general advice? The only special consideration (AFAIK) is that the electric conduit will pass over the top of the gas line coming into the house.

Jim
Any chance the sewer line could break as well? While you have the big digger, it sure would be nice to put in a private dump station.
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Old 10-02-2007, 06:09 PM   #4
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Jim,
I would not use metal conduit. I would use direct burial plastic conduit. While you are at it burry a water line too. and why not a potty pipe? I smell a courtsey parking spot in the making!

Hand dig around the marked lines. Breaking one can cause a lot of headache and expense. Go deeper. You have the machine, use it. At least two feet. Find out where the freeze line can be ( not hwere it usually is) and be at least 6 inches below that.
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Old 10-02-2007, 06:17 PM   #5
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Despite the markings, still be careful when digging. Today at work a contractor broke a gas main - the markings were about 6-8 feet off!
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Old 10-02-2007, 06:21 PM   #6
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We put ours about 24-30" down...and do hand dig around existing lines.

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Old 10-02-2007, 06:21 PM   #7
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Now you see, that's why I asked the question of you guys. Great ideas already. Plastic conduit is a must have. And it will run near the septic. Fence is already in.

Michelle, you're welcome around our campfire anytime, coutesy paking or not!

Jim
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Old 10-02-2007, 06:22 PM   #8
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How about a sewer line?
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Old 10-02-2007, 08:19 PM   #9
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I don't know what code is in GA but here in MS it's 2 feet deep for any power.

Check your condut size and wire guage for a correct match.

Length of run and voltage drop calculators are available online.

Run a pull wire in with your power lines for future pulls, use 90 degree sweeps instead of regular 90 pipe joints (yes, regular 90's are available in conduit grey).
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Old 10-02-2007, 08:23 PM   #10
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I would use the 3/4" conduit instead of the 1/2" Not much difference in cost and the 3/4 is a lot easier to pull through. Also with the 30amp wire, 1/2 may be tight.
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Old 10-02-2007, 09:26 PM   #11
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Well if my travels take me south east this winter I will stop by. I am not sure what my schedule is anymore. I may not make the Can opener. I may be working.... Bummer.
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Old 10-03-2007, 09:39 AM   #12
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Just what I would do - not anything too vital...

Suggestions:

1) While you have the trench open lay in a heavy bare copper ground wire in addition to anything running inside the conduit - if you have a close encounter with lightning it will usually save the buried wire from getting damaged.

2) Upgrade to the next wire conductor size since a few dollars more now can save hassles later, and copper is not going to get any cheaper EVER.

3) Run a length of automatic lawn sprinkler control wire in trench to cover telephone and a intrusion or fire alarm circuit in the trailer.

4) Use Schedule 80 plastic conduit - has better UV protection and is much heavier, and oversize the conduit by at least 100% then what you could get away with, and leave a length of cheap polypropylene 1/4" rope in to pull additional wires in the future.

5) Put your conduit UNDER the gas line since its the most likely one to be replaced in the future.

6) Cut the turf 'sod' out and move aside before trenching, and take a 4X4" post or similar to compact earth back into trench or else you will have left over dirt and a long skinny hollow spot next year about this time. I think a electric sod-cutter was $25 rental and well worth it if you have a nice campus.

7) Use the "U" shaped universal bracket used to mount wires and pipe to cast concrete walls-ceiling as reinforcement where conduit exits ground at camping pad if it isn't adjacent to a building - and a bag or two of concrete to beef it up like a fence post to get it more 'lawn-mower' proof. I can't think of the trade name of the 'U' shaped channel but it is a square box with one face open that allows pipe-wire-conduit clamps to slide in and get bolted into place securely...
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Old 10-03-2007, 12:40 PM   #13
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Use a larger conduit, you willnever regret it.
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Old 10-03-2007, 12:55 PM   #14
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Use a larger conduit, you willnever regret it.

I agree, I would and have use on my install the 2 inch conduit. MUCH easier to pull wires. I would pull the wires through each 10 foot or 20 foot conduit section and then glue the up. I would also go with the larger wire advice, you will also not regret that choice. They now sell RV boxes (I know I've seen them in campgrounds but they were always a special order item) in the big box stores with the RV 120V 30 amp AND a 120 duplex outlet. Wish I had bought one of those, makes it easier when you want to plug in stuff and don't want to go into the trailer.


BTW - You find out that you have hit something with the Ditch Witch AFTER you hit it. The marked utility stuff is great - HAND DIG those and save yourself the frustration of repairs. Their sensors have been known to be WAY off. Don't ask me how I know.......
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