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Old 03-25-2012, 09:53 AM   #15
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1967 17' Caravel
2007 27' Safari FB SE
Landenberg , Pennsylvania
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Thanks for everyone's advice. I am making progress.

Yesterday I rewired the GFCI above the sink. I now have the power coming into it from the panel to "line", power going out to "load" goes on to another receptical. I have the refrigerator fed from the "line" side as well so that it is not affected by the GFCI. After doing this, the refrigerator was turned on and the GFCI does not trip.

Did I do something wrong by running the wire off the "line" side to the refrigerator? There was no room in the box to pigtail.

Also, I turned the refrigerator on for 30 minutes and it does not seem to be working on electric. Would the most likely problem be a heating element? Today I'll try to light it using propane and see if it works on propane.

Thanks for your help.

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Old 03-25-2012, 10:00 AM   #16
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Dewey , Arizona
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30 minutes is not long enough to tell if the refrigerator is functioning. The first sign that the unit is starting to cool is the walls of the freezer are getting cold. It takes several hours for the entire unit to get to the operating temperature.



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Old 03-25-2012, 10:46 AM   #17
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Did you check the outlet for the refer for power? If it is wired direct. Is there power at the refer? Do you have the electric mode thermostat turned up?
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Old 03-25-2012, 08:36 PM   #18
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Iím going to ignore the issue with your fridge and deal with what may be a bigger problem. Thatís the AL wiring in the trailer.
There are no CU/AL rated GFI outlets. They donít make them. So by connecting one directly to AL wire youíve created a hazard while trying to fix one. The only way to connect to AL is by pig tailing CU to the outlet off the AL feed line. The most common method of doing that is using Ideal 65 wire nuts. There have been many issues with these and the CPSC wonít approve them. If youíre going to pig tail the better solution is to use AlumiConn connectors. These are CPSC approved.
You can buy those here:
All of the current standard outlets should be checked to make sure they have been changed out to CU/AL rated outlets.
Your breakers should be pulled to be sure they have been changed out to CU/AL rated units.
Check the wiring that was done to your new AC unit. I fear youíll find AL wire attached to CU with standard wire nuts. That one would be especially dangerous due to the constant cycling of the unit causing the AL to expand and contract which will overheat the connection. The AC is also something you leave on for long periods of time and use while youíre sleeping.
You mentioned that you didnít have room for red wire nuts to pigtail in the box so the above may not be a solution for your outlet. The AC wiring box however should have room for you to use an AlimiConn connector if needed.
Your best solution to add GFI protection may be the recommendation, made earlier by Jammer, to do so by adding a 15 amp GFI breaker that is CU/AL rated. Iím still not a fan of having the fridge on a GFI but, losing some food is a better option than having the Airstream catch on fire.
One correction to something I mentioned earlier about never going down in wire size from #12 to #14. Doing that is an allowable exception when feeding from #12 AL due to the difference in conductivity.
Good luck with your upgrades. If you want any links to support the book I wrote above Ė let me know and Iíll post them for you.

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