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Old 06-20-2009, 10:31 PM   #15
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1969 31' Sovereign
Broken Arrow , Oklahoma
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As stated earlier the breaker box should be removed and a standard box with a 30 amp main breaker installed. A new breaker box and breakers will not be very expensive.

I think we all agree this box is not really suitable for RV use. Yes, if you know what you are doing you can wire it to work and the previous owner seems to have wired it for 240/120 operation and ran 2 air conditioners but if it were mine and what I recommend is for Stan to replace the box and wire the new one correctly with a caution not to wire ground and neutral together.

Garry
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Old 06-21-2009, 03:02 PM   #16
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1976 31' Sovereign
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I'll be replacing the box tomorrow.
Thanks for all the greart advise and comments.

Stan Wilder
1976 Airstream
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Old 06-21-2009, 09:53 PM   #17
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Just got inside from looking at my '89 MH box, almost same as yours in design.
I don't see need to replace, just correct wiring.
I was looking to split my power to rear air to a dedicated plug for dual air at campground and just happened to study wiring in this box to understand.
Mine is stock, and here is your photo with changes needed to be as mine is.
Remove white wire N1 and place over where G1 is now.
Move G1 to the grounding strip.
Place a jumper between the two power supply blocks, as the blue wire shows.
The black wire is correct.

Squint your eyes, and plug it in.
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Old 06-23-2009, 08:47 AM   #18
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1976 31' Sovereign
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The problem is resolved.
I installed a new breaker box and greonded it to the copper pipe with the heavy ground wire.
Power to all outlets, water heater works too, the auxillary plug for the microwave is hot and everything works fine with very little voltage drop when the A/C starts up.

Thanks for all the help.

PS A couple of contributors got it righ on -- as how I could continue to use the old box. IE Jumper wire, add grounding bar etc.

Stan Wilder
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Old 06-23-2009, 11:12 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stanwilder View Post
The problem is resolved.
I installed a new breaker box and greonded it to the copper pipe with the heavy ground wire.
Power to all outlets, water heater works too, the auxillary plug for the microwave is hot and everything works fine with very little voltage drop when the A/C starts up.

Thanks for all the help.

PS A couple of contributors got it righ on -- as how I could continue to use the old box. IE Jumper wire, add grounding bar etc.

Stan Wilder
I am still wondering where the main feed hot is coming in. Mine goes to the 30A breaker and back feeds the bus.
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Old 06-23-2009, 01:47 PM   #20
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I'm wondering also.

Maybe the reason Klattu doesn't have a backfed main breaker is (perhaps) he has a MH, and the main breaker is over there with the automatic transfer switch?

Otherwise, if you have more than two breakers you need a main disconnect and breaker.
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Old 06-24-2009, 03:27 PM   #21
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If you look at that mess in the black plastic box, there were several people that got it right.
#1) Put a jumper where Klattu says to; between the incoming Black limne and the lug to the left. This makes all connections 120V that the breakers connect to.
#2) Buy a grounding bar and add it somewhere at the bottom of the box, connected to the heavy ground wire and to all other ground wires, the green wire coming in and the other green wires that go to other things like the electric water heater.
#3) connect the white neutral wire to the top left neutral bar and all the other neutral wires.
The box I bought for a replacement was a steel box with the exact interior components as the plastic box (I mean picture perfect twin on the whole thing).
Once I got the new box and disassembled it next to the plastic box I also disassembled the mystery solved itself.
It was easy to see how the electrician separated the circuits so he had 3 120V breaklers and 1-220V breaker in the same box.
As for the 30 Amp main breaker its just added to the left of the new box with jumpers going to the new box.
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