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Old 01-23-2017, 06:44 PM   #29
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dasams, not good at searching the forum and cannot find the one about running the two Honda's off one line. Can you help me out.....Andy
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Old 01-23-2017, 06:52 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by openroad118 View Post
Can you use the regulated propane (BBQ) connection or do you have to use a separate propane tank?
I use the BBQ connection.
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Old 01-23-2017, 07:07 PM   #31
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Here's the thread that dasams mentioned above: http://www.airforums.com/forums/f448...ml#post1816981
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Old 01-23-2017, 08:04 PM   #32
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Rocinante, damas and Gary....Thanks for all the info......Andy
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Old 01-23-2017, 11:15 PM   #33
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The reason the truck from the 1970's burned it's valves on propane likely was due to the alloys used for valves in that era. Those engines were designed primarily to run on leaded gasoline. It wasn't until 1974 that unleaded gasoline became commonplace, and yet most folks still burned leaded fuel because it was cheaper. The TEL (lead) left a residue on the valve seats which cushioned the seat. Using unleaded fuel on lead-fuel engines that did not have the hardened seats necessary for unleaded fuel damaged them.

That is obviously no longer a problem since proper alloys are now used on valves, however most literature I've read on propane conversions strongly advises (if not downright demands) that the engine be "broken in" on gasoline....the purpose being to properly seat the valves on gasoline before putting them into service on propane. That's what I'd do myself..... run it for 5 hours on gasoline then convert it to propane.

Propane should actually improve the life of engines since it burns cooler and produces less contaminates. I worked for the state of Texas in the late 80's and the General Land Office ran selected vehicles on nat. gas and propane and found that oil changes could be doubled without damage, and led to the use of 100% synthetic oils because those oils could withstand the longer changes since contaminates were so drastically lowered. (A significant amount of engine-wear is caused by the contaminates produced by burning gasoline and diesel.)

Propane does suffer a slight reduction in work capacity due to less energy stored, but if you're not running an AC you aren't likely to suffer from that.

Trivia: The first Ford tractors could run unleaded fuel without damage because Henry designed them (and heavily promoted the concept) to run them on pure ethanol. He thought it was a good match.... farmers raising corn and running tractors on ethanol. But Dupont, working with Standard Oil and GM developed TEL (TetraEthylLead) which allowed higher compression engines and they created Ethyl Corp who promoted leaded gasoline...much to the dismay of Henry.
The dangers of lead and the poisoning of the chemists at DuPont was kept very secret for decades. Now we know.
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Old 01-24-2017, 08:08 AM   #34
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Propane it is

Quote:
Originally Posted by Boxite View Post
The reason the truck from the 1970's burned it's valves on propane likely was due to the alloys used for valves in that era. Those engines were designed primarily to run on leaded gasoline. It wasn't until 1974 that unleaded gasoline became commonplace, and yet most folks still burned leaded fuel because it was cheaper. The TEL (lead) left a residue on the valve seats which cushioned the seat. Using unleaded fuel on lead-fuel engines that did not have the hardened seats necessary for unleaded fuel damaged them.
ning of the chemists at DuPont was kept very secret for decades...
Thanks Boxite and all of you for a very enlightening and comforting responses that propane is the way to go. So one Honda EU2000i it is. But yours and others about running it on gasoline for a few hours begs the question about the GenConneX modified unit. From the photos it appears it is propane only since I don't see a gasoline filler cap. So what's up with that? I'd prefer the GenConneX product since it's already done and they offer a three year warranty. But I'm handy so could go the convert-it-myself route. What are your thoughts about which way to go?

I also never saw much about warranty. Won't a convert-it-myself void the Honda factory warranty? That's the main reason I like the GenConneX with it's warranty.

Thanks again for all the excellent responses to help me make the right decision. I can't wait to get my new International on the road and boondocked some place out in West Texas...by the way, do you like my TV? Just kidding, it's a F-350.
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Old 01-24-2017, 03:42 PM   #35
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GenConneX also claims no need to break-in on gasoline.

Do I need to ‘break in’ my generator on gasoline first?
No.* We are asked this quite often and believe it’s meant to fool consumers buying U.S. Carburetion/Snorkel tri-fuel units in two
ways. It’s a hidden way of shielding U.S. Carburetion from warranty claims by telling you to test the gasoline unit before
converting it (and steering you to the original gasoline manufacturers warranty yourself), and it forces you to fill the carburetor
float bowl with gasoline.* This stops their variable air leak that effect the tuning when the float bowl is empty by drawing air in
through the empty gas tank vent.* We seal this air passage and we test our units before shipping.


Another excellent reason for a propane-ONLY generator is that most gasoline models do not store very well without damage unless the carburetors are drained and dried (and also the gasoline tanks) ...or unless some preservation technique is used. (I store mine with aviation gasoline which does not have the problems of long storage such as ethanol-gasoline does.)

Propane is a good conversion for many, IMO.
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Old 01-30-2017, 08:00 PM   #36
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Genconnex tells me that LP is only a 2-3% reduction in power but Natural Gas is a 15% reduction.
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