Fusible Links

[kennytheecat]

What is the proper way to replace older fusible links?

From what I understand, sometime mid 80's they stopped making the ones I have.

Is a maxifuse recommended?

Do I cut off the dark rubbery piece?

How do I tell what size fuse I need?

From what I can tell a 10 guage wire connect to a fusible link, the rubbery spits into 2 10 gauge wire, those 2 wire connect with the rubbery part which is attached to the solenoid under the dog house near the alternator. The rubbery part has "16" on it.

[bibbs]

The black plastic thing, that you will cut off, might have another #that you cant see till you take it out. 10 wire is good for 30 amps, You can ues any in line fuse style that is the same amps as orignal. Never saw a 16 amp that could be the link's wire size. Solder connections are best.

Bibbs

[Tom Nugler]

Fuse links were generally used as a stop gap measure to keep the main harness from cooking. I haven’t replaced one in years so I might be a bit fuzzy on the details.
First you need to find out what took out the link. If you have access to a wiring diagram it should tell you what the rating should be and where it goes.
Remember that link wire is not the same as regular primary wire. It’s designed to melt. Regular wire will carry current long after the insulation has caught fire and ruined a complete harness. You should be able to feel the difference in the insulation and flexability.
Adding in-line fuses without knowing what the current consumer or producer is could be asking for trouble. In addition I’ve found in-line fuse holders don’t have the longevity your looking for.
We would cut off the plastic splice covers and old link. Cut the new link to about the same size and reconnect them with self-sealing heat shrink butt connectors. That was the function of the molded rubber pieces on the original.
Hope that helps you out. Find the cause first. The repair is simple.

Good luck,
Tom.