Fuses for Univolt V

[VeggieBullet]

The PO removed all the fuses from the univolt.
All we can see is UNIVOLT V
Model TU 345 A
Output 12V 45A
2 Big Slot ( I guess 50Amp since is going to the Batt)
4 Smaller Slots (Unknown fuse size and circuit)
1 Little slot (Unknown fuse size & and circuit)
Looking online we can't find the correct sizes for the distribution panel.
Does anyone know the correct sizes?
Anybody with a diagram of what fuse is for what application?
Thanks

[idroba]

From memory: Yes, big slots are for the 50 amp fuses. The 4 smaller slots are for the various house circuits, generally 15 amps. Not sure about that, could have been 20 amps, but I would start with 15 amp fuses and see how they hold up. The smallest fuse was a 1 amp for the shunt to the Ammeter I believe.

Again, this is all from memory, but I think it will get you started.

[jm2]

this post might be useful to you - 1972 Overlander Univolt Wiring Diagram

if it is, don't forget to thank SailorGal !



best,

[Alumaholic]

According to my best recollection, idroba has it right.
But why replace the fuses?
The Univolt is surely shot.
Even if it still has a few hours, days, or weeks of service left in it; it's time to replace it with a start-of-the-art converter.
Having tried to get the most out of my failing Univolts on two different vintage Airstreams, it was a joy to have fully functioning converters and battery chargers on each one.

[VeggieBullet]

Thanks JM!
Alumaholic: You are probably right but since we just got into these projects we have no other way to test anything and since there is no fuses at all may as well do them right?
Just wondering now what are the circuits #1 #2 #3 #4 for:
Thanks again

[VeggieBullet]

Indeed....the Univolt as a charging system is done.
Replaced the fuses and still no power on the 12V circuits (placed a fully charged batt for testing purposes).
Between replacing the brakers @ the main panel and trying to test all electrical power came to notice that THERE IS NOT ROOM TO WORK!!!
I have the tendency to move everything that could be on the way to try to make the work a therapy and not a torture so the RearBath is coming out! How is another issue
so here are the questions
1) just because the charging sys on the Univolt is dead does it mean that the distribution panel is also dead?
2) What are the right size of drill bits to take the bathroom out?
3) Can anyone direct me on particular instructions?
Thanks

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by VeggieBullet

Indeed....the Univolt as a charging system is done.
Replaced the fuses and still no power on the 12V circuits (placed a fully charged batt for testing purposes).
Between replacing the brakers @ the main panel and trying to test all electrical power came to notice that THERE IS NOT ROOM TO WORK!!!
I have the tendency to move everything that could be on the way to try to make the work a therapy and not a torture so the RearBath is coming out! How is another issue
so here are the questions
1) just because the charging sys on the Univolt is dead does it mean that the distribution panel is also dead?
2) What are the right size of drill bits to take the bathroom out?
3) Can anyone direct me on particular instructions?
Thanks

You will need to salvage the fuse panel. New Univolts do not come with a distribution panel.

All the interior rivets are 1/8 inch. Use a # 30 drill bit for proper removal.

Use caution when removing the bath parts as some of them may be brittle.

Andy

[VeggieBullet]

Hi Andy.
thanks for the reply.
Any advice about where to begin? should the vanity mirror come out first?
Thanks

[Inland RV Center, In]

Originally Posted by VeggieBullet

Hi Andy.
thanks for the reply.
Any advice about where to begin? should the vanity mirror come out first?
Thanks

Keep in mind of how an Airstream is built.

The first major installation is at the rear, and then works forward.

You must keep that in mind when removing furniture.

Removing the outside cover things such as the mirrors, faucets, toilet and the like is where you begin.

Andy