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Old 11-19-2019, 09:24 AM   #1
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Fuse in Silverado Keeps blowing for right Turn Signal

I have had the same issue twice in a year. My right hand directional stops working on the airstream. When I check, I have burnt out the fuse in my Silverado. Seems odd that it keeps happening with same fuse. I did have to have a panel in the same side back panel replaced due to backing into another vehicle earlier this year - I thought it may have been the wire was compromised back in that area of the airstream, but my dealer checked it out and can find no issue with wiring in the back of the trailer. Any ideas on what is causing this?
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Old 11-19-2019, 09:43 AM   #2
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I have had the same issue twice in a year. My right hand directional stops working on the airstream. When I check, I have burnt out the fuse in my Silverado. Seems odd that it keeps happening with same fuse. I did have to have a panel in the same side back panel replaced due to backing into another vehicle earlier this year - I thought it may have been the wire was compromised back in that area of the airstream, but my dealer checked it out and can find no issue with wiring in the back of the trailer. Any ideas on what is causing this?
Check to see if the umbilical is hitting on the propane cover, check for a "thin slice" entry point. I noticed how tight the cord is going through the half moon of the propane cover when fully tightened down and I don't like it.......that could be where it is happening and then it seals back up visually if you aren't looking for it.

The cover is part of the frame, hence ground....you could be directly shorting the right turn signal to ground over bumps/travel etc.
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Old 11-19-2019, 12:57 PM   #3
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I agree - there is an intermittent short where a wire to that specific turning signal is grounding. I would check first where ever the umbillical cord male/female connections to see if the wiring has some how frayed and grounding. Curious that the fuse in blowing on the truck not on the AS.
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Old 11-19-2019, 03:15 PM   #4
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Curious that the fuse in blowing on the truck not on the AS.
Does AS use a slow blow vs fast blow in the TV?
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Old 11-19-2019, 03:20 PM   #5
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Does AS use a slow blow vs fast blow in the TV?


The only fuse or circuit protection for running lights, etc. in the Airstream would be in the tow vehicle. They are powered from the umbilical and in most modern Airstreams there is no fuse.
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Old 11-19-2019, 03:41 PM   #6
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The only fuse or circuit protection for running lights, etc. in the Airstream would be in the tow vehicle. They are powered from the umbilical and in most modern Airstreams there is no fuse.
That is what I figured, but wasn't sure if AS had provision to protect the TV with say a 2 amp fuse since the leds tail lights are low current draw. So sounds like he has a true intermittent short in the trailer that is causing the fuse to pop when the wire grounds out.
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Old 11-20-2019, 05:10 AM   #7
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Thanks - I will check the umbilical for any issues. I still wonder if the wire running through the back of the trailer, where a damaged the back panel, might have been also damaged, causing it to ground.....just real difficult to get it checked now that the panels are all back on.
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Old 11-20-2019, 11:09 AM   #8
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Thanks - I will check the umbilical for any issues. I still wonder if the wire running through the back of the trailer, where a damaged the back panel, might have been also damaged, causing it to ground.....just real difficult to get it checked now that the panels are all back on.
I had a similar problem with the running lights on our '74 Sovereign after I renovated it. A screw nicked the wire insulation and periodically shorted it. We drove all the way from Toronto to LA and back to Iowa before it first became a problem. I made a temporary fix on the road by running a wire from the junction box where the umbilical entered at the front to a point where I could access the running light wiring at the back of the trailer. This happened to bypass the short, which I located when we got back home.
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Old 11-20-2019, 12:14 PM   #9
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Folded or damaged metal piercing the wire sounds plausible....any pics?
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Old 11-20-2019, 02:27 PM   #10
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Fuse

For current to go up resistance has to go down. So a power wire is shorting to the skin or a bulb has been changed that has the wrong resistance value.

It could be in the truck circuit.

Only way is to disconnect from the truck and Power up the turn signal through a Amp meter hooked in series on The trailer 7 pin. I would compare amperage on both sides.

The voltage used should be 13.6 to 15

Have you added any extra lights or light bulb modifications to your trucks circuit or the trailer? Every light added on in parallel will cause current to become additive.
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Old 11-20-2019, 03:14 PM   #11
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Check the umbilical cord for pinch marks. I have seen them pinch from tight
turns and go un-noticed. Later a short may occur.
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Old 11-20-2019, 04:45 PM   #12
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Connect an ohmmeter (+) to the trailer plug 3-o'clock position and chassis ground and move the 7-way cord around a bit to simulate 'trailering' to see if the resistance remains constant. If that's OK, move your (+) ohmmeter lead to the 9-o'clock position and work the umbilical around a bit as before. If OK, hook up and see if you have equal brightness of your turn signals. Lastly and maybe most important, connect your meter to the ground--approx 5-o'clock position on the plug--and check for any resistance between that connector and where the other end of the ground connects inside the trailer. If more than 0 to 1 ohms, suspect a bad ground connection that needs cleaning where it attaches inside or to the frame.
If all else fails, you may want to replace the 7-way plug/cord assembly as a means of eliminating one culprit before moving on to the truck socket and related harness. Same checks as above apply. Good luck!
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Old 11-20-2019, 07:34 PM   #13
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Yup pinched wire, my bet, it is the new panel.
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Old 11-21-2019, 05:52 AM   #14
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No New Lights

I have not added nor switched lights. The trailer is still at dealer - so I can ask them to check amperage on both sides. If this shows an issue - then I am nor sure how they get access to a potential stripped wire that might be grounding - if it is indeed behind the replaced panel - and removing the panel is not a good option if the wire condition is not easily evaluated.




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Originally Posted by Life is a Highway View Post
For current to go up resistance has to go down. So a power wire is shorting to the skin or a bulb has been changed that has the wrong resistance value.

It could be in the truck circuit.

Only way is to disconnect from the truck and Power up the turn signal through a Amp meter hooked in series on The trailer 7 pin. I would compare amperage on both sides.

The voltage used should be 13.6 to 15

Have you added any extra lights or light bulb modifications to your trucks circuit or the trailer? Every light added on in parallel will cause current to become additive.
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Old 11-21-2019, 04:00 PM   #15
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I had a similar issue. I suspected the umbilical cord where it goes under the propane cover. I rewrapped/padded the umbilical cord there and the problem has not reoccured. Enlarging the half round opening in the bottom of the propane cover is what I'll do if the problem reoccurs.
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Old 11-27-2019, 11:25 AM   #16
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My running lights went out. Mine was easy to find. Pinched umbilical cord. Blew the fuse in my F-150.
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Old 11-28-2019, 05:42 AM   #17
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Latest Update

Thanks for everyone's help. The fuse blew again at the delaership, but they could not identify what caused it. I checked the umbelical. It is was definitely "stressed where it passes by propane tank cover, but I don't see that it as cut on the outside. For all the people that suggested unbillical - did anyone have that issue without the black outer sheath being compromised? I also called Airstream, they were not very helpful, as they said periodic issues are tough to identify cause.....they did not suggest a way to diagnose. I am going to tape up embillical and insure it is not pinched and see how I do for 56 months. If that doesn't work, I will bring it to Jackson Center and let them check the wiring inch by inch....while under warranty.
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Old 11-29-2019, 06:33 AM   #18
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Cord stress

Try hooking up the truck to the trailer and then while parked turn on the signal and then bend pull and flex the umbilical cord to see if and when or in what position the fuse blows.

It’s a pain to set up but a digital amp meter with min max recording can be installed in series on the trucks signal fuse. It would show the normal current and high fuse blowing current.

If the fuse never blows in the truck without the trailer go back to what was last touched. The skin repair

You could also take away power to that signal in the trailer and go for a ride. If the truck signal then blows it may be in that harness if not then it’s in the trailer wiring to the left signal. Easy to say but time consuming and maddening to find
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Old 11-29-2019, 07:16 AM   #19
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Fuse in Silverado Keeps blowing for right Turn Signal

Have you inspected the trailer light wiring on the signal light itself?
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Old 11-30-2019, 01:19 AM   #20
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I already said I think it’s the skin repair, I made my living, doing diagnostic electrical repairs, on houses, I often would ask , what was the last thing that was worked on? 9 times out of 10, it’s it’s related to the last job that was done. If I were you I would bypass that turn signal circuit, even temporarily, on the outside of the trailer, to make sure that is it.
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