FUBAR’ed electrical 2008 classic

[boondockdad]

I’d like to save a trip back down to Jackson Center, if possible… there’s some very knowledgeable people here- hoping u can help

Coach plugged into shore for a few days. Batteries topped off (I’m assuming)

Took to storage. Left for 3 days. Disconnected LP’s for safety, left batteries connected.

Returned for pick-up. Went to raise jack. Dead. Plugged in umbilical, let engine idle for about 10 minutes. Jack activated briefly, and very sluggish.

(I doubled checked everything inside the coach, after I got ‘er home and plugged into shore.. there was nothing left on)

Here’s the interesting part: so when the jack went dead completely (that is, stopped moving altogether), the brake pump activated. When I released the jack switch, the brake pump stopped… when I activated the jack (either up or down) again- again, the brake pump activated (this is while the umbilical was connected, and TV idling)

After leaving the umbilical in, and idling the engine for about 10 more minutes, I was able to raise the front stabs

Another tidbit that may be relevant- two weeks ago, plugged into CG shore power, my power cable melted at the head

Any ideas?

[DPeakMD]

Even if you turn 'everything' off, there's still little power gremlins alive. Your fridge has a 12v board, LP gas detectors, etc. Still, 3 days seems way too soon to run down 2 batteries. I suspect something else is going on. The melted power cord sounds scary. Maybe something fried your converter/charger in the trailer and your batteries were actually not fully charged when you dropped it off at the storage facility. Your brake pump was just doing it's job. It re-pressurizes when 12v is restored. I would be careful about letting that happen too much, though. It might not be good for that $$$ pump.

Start by checking your AC breakers and then your 12V fuses. Do you have a volt meter?

[cosmotini]

It's my understanding that the batteries will not be charged when plugged in to shore power unless the battery disconnect switch is pushed up. It may be your batteries were not being charged. Don't have any ideas about power cord melting.

[3Ms75Argosy]

A couple of ideas - when your cable melted (from reverse polarity if I remember correctly), your main fuse on the power converted blew (I'd hope!). Check that first.

I don't think your batteries are charging... or they got fried from the electrical mess prior. When you use your jack head, they are pulling really down (and they may be damaged from this extreme empty condition also... just fyi). Then your brake pump thinks it's in a power off condition like a trailer breakaway... so it goes into brakeaway mode.. except it doesn't have any power to do so UNTIL you plug into your truck.

When you plug into the truck, you have some (but not all) 12v power to power the electrical devices... but the batteries are not being charged at all because the power converter isn't working.

So... check your power converter fuse on the converter (not the fuse panel).
Also check your batteries .... I think you'll find them toast.

Good luck!
Marc

[DPeakMD]

I think the batteries will charge (slowly) from just plugging in the truck. The converter is used to charge the batteries when plugged into 120v AC. There could be fuses out which might prevent both situations from charging your batteries, though.

[boondockdad]

no polarity problems on the earlier melted head... always check with tester...
but it didn't trip the breaker in the trailer, either....

breaker at charger/converter has been 'ON' entire time... (only switch that to 'OFF' after everythings winterized)

UPDATE: was on shore power overnight. disconnected... ran the fans, cycled the jack, ran the pump (so the charger did work).... hooked 120VAC back up, did not notice the charger fan kick on...

[DPeakMD]

I suppose your charger/converter is probably working then. The melted power cord head must have been a high-resistance bad connection inside the plug head or between it and the socket. I imagine you might have had the A/C on and drawing a lot of amps? You've replaced that at this point right?

[Area63]

You have received good advice and ideas so far. I can only add to this that a melting 30A plug is not to be ignored. It was either plugged into a bad receptacle, which caused it to get hot, or there is something very wrong with the electrical system in your trailer.
Either way, I would pay a visit to a warranty center to have it looked after. Your coach is too new tho have this happen. I would insist on a complete electrical inspection with report.

[jglabrown]

On our 2005 CCD, the Battery Disconnect switch must be switched "on" PRIOR to connecting shore power. Switching it on after shore power is established will not activate the charger (there is a notation to that effect in our operating manual, but it was just one of many things I overlooked when I first bought it).

[boondockdad]

even though i'm only ~1hr 45min away from j/c, it's still an all-day affair/a lot of driving... wonder if that complete elect inspect could be done while i wait... edit/ yes, cable's since been replaced..

[2airishuman]

Originally Posted by finalcutjoe

...wonder if that complete elect inspect could be done while i wait...

sorry couldn't resist....

hi fc...

i really feel your pain on this one....

and had similar, but slightly different issues for WELL OVER A YEAR and 3 trips to j/c....

including the melted 30 amp plug.

some of the agony is noted here...

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f37/...lks-21082.html

to summarize my view and experience on this...

1.-dealer service shops know very little about electrical issues and are not well equipped to investigate them...

2.-the factory warranty department boss (JIM PARRETT) and his subordinates...
is VERY resistant to authorizing the time/$$$ for a dealer to properly investigate these issues...

3.-since many hours of labor fees OR a qualified electrician may be needed...

4.-the factory warranty department and service center bosses (JIM PARRETT and DAVE SCHUMANN) and their subordinates...
are very resistant to admitting ANY oem wiriing issues exist...

5.-these same people are very resistant to doing the proper INVESTIGATION even IF YOU TAKE THE UNIT TO J/C (see #2)...

6,-as the owner YOU MUST INSIST they spend the SERVICE TIME to investigate properly...
and completely and get any/all wiring issues sorted out; this is no small task on YOUR part because of #2 and #3....

7.-don't assume the proper work will be done just because they schedule your unit for work at j/c (see #2)...

8.-because they WILL take the shortest approach....
and the WILL tell ya "you did something wrong" to cause the problem (see #2 & #3)...

9.-after the work is done, don't assume the problem has been corrected (see #2 & #3)...
drive to a near-by rv/state park and use the damn thing over night, some place OTHER than the terra port...

10. -mulitple trips to j/c may be needed before they finally take the time to properly sort out the issue (see #2 & #3)...

-additionally they should replace your 30 amp cord for FREE (under warranty), it's a 200$ item...

this of course all assumes you've done the basics (like checking battery water level) and didn't do something silly...

like plug into a 220/240 volt power supply, try to run the a/c on LOW VOLTAGE or rewire the unit after delivery...

cheers
2air'