External Power Cord Replacement

jstaad · 12-03-2002, 04:04 PM

Greetings. I am a new member of this forum with a problem! I have burned up my external power cord (running an electric heater). I have purchased a new one and for the life of me can't figure out how to get the new cord to follow the routing of the old one. I have a 1976 31ft. Land yatch Sovereign (rear bath). The old cord is routed into the "trunk area" (where the dump valves and water valves are) then through a gromet downward, out of sight, and it then comes out in the rear bumper area under the lid where you store the dump line and electrical cord when travelling. Now, how does one access the part of this routing that is out of sight??

Anyone out there ever changed out one of these cords?

Help would be greatly appreciated.

-"jstaad"

**Pick** · 12-03-2002, 04:21 PM

Mine snakes up through and into the cabinet next to the toilet, where it connects to the circuit breaker panel in that cabinet. What you could do is disconnect it from the CB panel and tie a string or rope to it. Pull the old cord out guiding the rope back through. After it is all the way through, tape or tie wrap the rope or cord onto the new power cord, and pull it through. The storage shelf in the trunk comes out with a few screws if that helps.

Ken J · 12-03-2002, 04:51 PM

What kind of heater were you using, I use a 1500 watt and don't seem to have any problems.

Jason1101 · 01-23-2003, 06:16 AM

I see your post was over a month ago, so I don't know if you already corrected the problem or not... but Pick's string/wire idea is right on to help fish the new cord through. Just make sure you loop the new to the old, twist them together then tape them securely (with a nice, long taper) so they don't pull apart when you hit a snag.

My major concern (and reason why I'm replying so long after the fact) is why did the cord burn? The upstream breaker/fuse is there to protect it (and you) from that happening. Instead, your cord acted as the fuse. I would hate to think that the potential danger of this happening again is still there.

Please make sure the replacement cord is properly rated for 30 Amps at the purchased length. Longer lengths require larger cable (smaller AWG number) to help offset voltage drop caused by the resistance in the conductor. And please confirm your source of "shore" power is equipped with a 30A breaker/fuse (or less) to protect the new cord.

I would have to guess that the old cord insulation was worn, frayed, cracked, etc... causing the problem. Your trailer's main and individual fuses should have never allowed more than 30A to be drawn, but just wanted to give my $.02 anyway.