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Old 11-26-2004, 09:27 PM   #15
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We had the same issue - but our light was at the breaker box - it turned out that the extension cord our trailer cord was plugged into that was further plugged into the house outside plug....was one of Hubby's early day wiring projects - replacing the plug end - he had reversed it.

If it were not for TCwilliams and a few other great wiring gurus here we would have still been scratching our heads at that little (red) light - we actually thought it was telling us everything was a okay that power was being supplied
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Old 11-26-2004, 09:57 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by markdoane
Eric,

I wondered what that light was for. I guess I can take the wiring and ? out of the old box and use that.

What are you planning for wiring? I was going to put in a 12 space 50a panel for the 120/240, and a 12 fuse DC panel. I know there are some combined units available, but haven't checked prices.

I'm using aluminum armored cable for the 120 vac, to avoid having to put in lots of grommets.
I need to sit down and finalize. There are few enough lights that I could put all on one 15amp circuit but I think I want too put them on two. That way if I loose one circuit I am not completely in the dark. One Circuit for A/C, one for Galley, one for curb side that the microwave and Fridge will share. One for the Gaucho (only reason is thats where the current A/C is). So I think a 6 circuit will do...Hmmmm No need to put the 12v intella charger so I need 7. Might as well go 8 then and put a AUX line in behind the Wardrobe. I can surface mount a cable from the Fuse box to the galley if I ever need anything on that side.

Heck a 12 doesn't sound out of line at all I could see 10 circuits if I put the Reefer on its own and a 110v water heater circuit.

12V I need a circuit for Water pump or Grover. Reefer, wardrobe for Stereo and 12 cig plug next to microwave. one to the heater location for blower and 12v plug for galley area. 12 v to forward Gaucho sconces, over head for light and two vent fans. 8 gage feed from front charge receptacle that was factory to the battery. Thinking Circuit breakers or possibly a marine pannel like this. HellaUsa

Now the fun is my ceiling and inside end caps were never removed. Only the bottom course so I could access the U-Channel. I am going to attempt to pull all these new circuits by only working through the vent openings and over head light. I may reuse some of the old 110v wiring as as 12v.

Near as I can tell there are very few grommets if I go up through the ceiling. The Ribs are all close to the vent openings where I would run into most of the grommets. I am going to replace the rubber with a hard plastic grommet. 40 year old rubber grommets don't sound long for the world.
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Old 11-26-2004, 10:28 PM   #17
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Electric rewiring

Eric,

I think I might try the Iota products. Unless someone has negative comments. http://www.iotaengineering.com/idp240.htm
They make a 50a 120V panel and a compatible 12V panel. Prices seem reasonable.

The original wiring in the overhead is nothing to be proud of. I took mine all out. I might re-use some of the grommets for 12V wiring.

Here's some pictures:
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Old 11-27-2004, 07:52 AM   #18
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I like those Iota's, make a nice set. Thanks
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Old 11-27-2004, 11:54 AM   #19
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Question Polarity Light? What polarity light?

So, what is the likelihood that my 1972 25' Trade Wind has a polarity light hidden somewhere and I just haven't discovered it yet? Were these 'standard issue' or options? What is the importance of ensuring we have the correct polarity hook-up? Thanks.
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Old 11-27-2004, 01:20 PM   #20
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Exterior Light???

Greetings TMiller!

Quote:
Originally Posted by TMiller
So, what is the likelihood that my 1972 25' Trade Wind has a polarity light hidden somewhere and I just haven't discovered it yet? Were these 'standard issue' or options? What is the importance of ensuring we have the correct polarity hook-up? Thanks.
Your '72 Tradewind should have one as standard equipment. These polarity lights were added as standard equipment in the early '60s - - possibly in '64 when the Univolt became a standard feature - - I know that my '64 Overlander had one from the factory and its function was described in the owner's manual. They still may be used in the new coaches, but I do know that they were still a standard feature in the late 1970s as my '78 Minuet has one as part of its standard equipment.

It is a VERY small lamp that is typically mounted very near where the electric service enters the coach or near the 120-Volt AC Fuse/Circuit breaker box depending upon Vintage of the coach. On my '64 Overlander, the polarity lamp is mounted to a panel near the Univolt's original location in the One Stop Service Compartment. On my '78 Minuet the lamp is mounted to the side panel of the coach - - just below eye-level on the street-side near the utility entrance point for the coach.

The lamp provides a valuable service as you know if it is illuminated there is a possibility that the skin of the coach is being electrically charged. There is also a potential of damaging polarity sensitive devices in the coach if the lamp is illuminated.

Good luck with your search for the lamp on your coach!

Kevin
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Old 11-27-2004, 03:50 PM   #21
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Red face Exterior Light

Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander64
Greetings balrgn!



Your photo is definitely of a Polarity Light. When I have had problems with this light illuminating it has typically been when the outlet being utilized wasn't wired properly, but in one instance with a coach that had recently been acquired it was the replacement plug-end on the trailer cord that was causing the problem - - the technician who repaired the wiring on my coach also indicated that he had seen instances where a replacement power supply cord had been wired into the coach incorrectly and caused the light to illuminate as well.

As a double-check for the Polarity Light, I now carry outlet testers in each of my coaches that will identify outlets with problems.

Good luck with your investigation!

Kevin
Well, I am a bit embarrassed. It WAS the cord to the Camper that was wired incorrectly. I stopped @ Home Depot to pick up a tester ($1.98). Reversed the wires and All is well. Now, have I caused any damage?
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Old 11-27-2004, 04:13 PM   #22
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Exterior Light???

Greetings balrgn!

Quote:
Originally Posted by balrgn
Well, I am a bit embarrassed. It WAS the cord to the Camper that was wired incorrectly. I stopped @ Home Depot to pick up a tester ($1.98). Reversed the wires and All is well. Now, have I caused any damage?
The appliances most likely to be impacted by reversed polarity are those with electronic circuit boards, so that would point to later model appliances that have been added or have been installed to replace the original appliances - - modern Dometic refrigeratoras with Automatic Energy Selection, later model Suburban furnaces, some of the later model water heaters with electronic ignition as well as radio/entertainment centers. Typically on a Vintage coach, unless the exposure to reversed polarity has been exceptionally long-term there haven't been a great number of reports of failures of appliances related to the condition - - the impact in regard to life-expectancy of Vintage electrical devices exposed to reversed polarity is difficult to predict.

When I noticed the polarity light on my Minuet, it had been plugged in for less than 15 minutes - - but I have no idea how long this condition existed prior to my purchase (the power cable had a new plug installed on the end that had been miswired) - - since all of my appliances were original and the coach didn't have the optional entertainment center, I didn't have any issues with failed appliances (in fact, two years later and the only original appliances that I have had to replace on the coach were the Univolt and water pump either one of which could have been the result of advanced age).

Good luck with your coach!

Kevin
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Old 11-27-2004, 04:17 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMiller
So, what is the likelihood that my 1972 25' Trade Wind has a polarity light hidden somewhere and I just haven't discovered it yet? Were these 'standard issue' or options? What is the importance of ensuring we have the correct polarity hook-up? Thanks.
It will either be on the rear of the trailer about a foot above on the bumper just to the center of the left seam or on the left side above the water heater if you have the International package. If it is missing it may have been removed by a PO or during panel repairs...that was how we discovered a couple of replaced panels on a buddy's AS...the polarity light was missing and we looked a little closer and found the shaved rivets....good repair job BTW

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Old 11-27-2004, 04:20 PM   #24
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Junction Boxes Missing?

Quote:
Originally Posted by markdoane
Eric,

I think I might try the Iota products. Unless someone has negative comments. http://www.iotaengineering.com/idp240.htm
They make a 50a 120V panel and a compatible 12V panel. Prices seem reasonable.

The original wiring in the overhead is nothing to be proud of. I took mine all out. I might re-use some of the grommets for 12V wiring.

Here's some pictures:
When you removed the interior wall covering were junction boxes present where the wires join? If not, I'm assuming you are going to place all the connections in boxes as you complete the rewiring. I ask this because I have heard stories about folks finding original wiring connected with no j-boxes. There is a standard for wiring vehicles for high and low voltage service, and A/S did follow them, as far as I am aware.
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Old 11-27-2004, 05:17 PM   #25
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Lightbulb Exterior Light

Thanks for the help! Not much of anything has been running in the camper, off season you know. I've used the heat a couple times and maybe a light or 2. Good thing I walked by it at night, not very noticeable in the daytime.



I'll check all the wiring inside as I have the whole bath removed.

Balrgn

Quote:
Originally Posted by overlander64
Greetings balrgn!



The appliances most likely to be impacted by reversed polarity are those with electronic circuit boards, so that would point to later model appliances that have been added or have been installed to replace the original appliances - - modern Dometic refrigeratoras with Automatic Energy Selection, later model Suburban furnaces, some of the later model water heaters with electronic ignition as well as radio/entertainment centers. Typically on a Vintage coach, unless the exposure to reversed polarity has been exceptionally long-term there haven't been a great number of reports of failures of appliances related to the condition - - the impact in regard to life-expectancy of Vintage electrical devices exposed to reversed polarity is difficult to predict.

When I noticed the polarity light on my Minuet, it had been plugged in for less than 15 minutes - - but I have no idea how long this condition existed prior to my purchase (the power cable had a new plug installed on the end that had been miswired) - - since all of my appliances were original and the coach didn't have the optional entertainment center, I didn't have any issues with failed appliances (in fact, two years later and the only original appliances that I have had to replace on the coach were the Univolt and water pump either one of which could have been the result of advanced age).

Good luck with your coach!

Kevin
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Old 11-27-2004, 06:35 PM   #26
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Thanks Kevin. I'll take a closer look! Tom
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Old 12-14-2004, 08:54 AM   #27
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Well Kevin, I think you are correct. I found an electrical box near the water heater inside an interior cabinet. The 'cover' of the electrical box has a hole in the center of it and two red wires sticking out about 10". The cover faces the water heater, so if it is/was the polarity light, you would have to use a mirror to see if it was on or off. This coverplate with the hole in it looks like the coverplate in the photo of a battery cut-off switch found elsewhere in the forum, obviously, however without the light. I think it is odd that the manufacturer would face the coverplate/light in a way that it was not readily visible, but it looks like it's original equipment. Are polarity lights still available for purchase and if so, I suppose there is a proper way to install it. Anyone know? Thanks. Tom
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