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Old 09-03-2013, 02:30 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by dcheshire View Post

Disclaimers: This was done at 65 degrees at sea level.

Also, this is my AC unit, yours may require more power to run.

Happy streamin!
How many people run an AC at 65 degrees ? 65 degrees down here and we start looking for blankets.

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Old 09-03-2013, 06:45 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Jim Clark View Post
How many people run an AC at 65 degrees ? 65 degrees down here and we start looking for blankets.
I was thinking about that and remembering that heat reduces engine power, being so close to the max 1600 watts with it 25* hotter out might be too much. (besides higher altitude reducing power)

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Old 09-03-2013, 06:56 PM   #17
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In the desert southwest, one Honda EU2000i won't hack it; you need two. If you primarily camp in cooler northern states where air conditioning is rarely used, you may be able to get by. However, I agree with others; this is a gamble. And, it's one that I would not take.

If you ever intend to travel south in the summer, I'd get the Yamaha 2400; or if you already have one Honda EU2000i, I'd buy the second Companion generator.
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Old 09-03-2013, 07:16 PM   #18
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If you had a smaller trailer with a smaller AC unit you would have more margin of power left.

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Old 09-20-2013, 11:35 PM   #19
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Our EU2000 will not run our AC unit on any mode other than fan heat pump or AC. So, we bought a companion to go with it - problem solved.. Now we have an EU3000is that we just leave under the topper and plug into it as needed ... A/C days are vanishing around her, however.
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Old 09-21-2013, 07:26 AM   #20
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The title of your thread sounds accurate,my 2000 will run my ac but will not restart it after it cycles.This is in a real life situation at a temp where ac is a big plus to normal comfort-well above 65.I was not testing it but one of my 2000's had an issue and could not pull it's weight.
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Old 09-21-2013, 07:49 AM   #21
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Remember that the amount of current that your A/C pulls is dependent on the outside air temp. In other words, a given A/C unit will pull less current at 65 degrees than at 100 degrees. As the outside air temp goes up, a higher pressure is required in the condenser to get the refrigerant to condense. Higher pressure means more work from the compressor, which means more current draw. Also, not all A/C's maintain pressure when off, so start up current isn't always a huge load. If the A/C unit has a capillary tube vice a TXV (thermostatic control valve), then the high and low sides will equalize in a few minutes once the compressor is off. That is mostly older units.

What's the point of all this? The only way to tell how much current your A/C will draw is to measure it in the actual conditions that you plan on using it (unless you can get charts for the compressor or A/C as whole). At 65 degrees, your A/C is doing hardly any real "work". The only difference between hi and lo in an A/C unit is the fan speed. Therefore, if the A/C works in lo at 65 degrees and not in hi, it won't be able to move any heat in any temperature that really needs it.


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