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Old 07-16-2007, 08:07 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by Ganglin
Something about the calculations don't look right - maybe I'm totally wrong. But, I ran this thru a voltage drop calculator. If his feed line is 12 gauge - 200 feet and the power draw is a full 15 amps - the voltage drop is only 9.7 volts. Still acceptable.

He was advised not to try running the air off this line.
Mine shows 12 ga at a 200 foot with 7.5 amps has 10V drop. Could you be using 200' as the complete loop (down and back) which equals 100' of distance?
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Old 07-16-2007, 07:39 PM   #30
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Thanks -

I knoe that something's different, as I no longer seem to be blowing that 20A fuse. Will keep the forum posted.

Josh
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Old 07-19-2007, 01:19 AM   #31
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i'm a newbie myself but maybe i can help.
could the lights not work because the batteries be dead? the shore line powers the univolt, which charges the batteries, which supply your 12v power. if you're turning off the power to the univolt/charger, the batteries die. guess how i found out? lol

am i thinking ok? anyone want to talk about shock dangers if the line gets wet?
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Old 10-07-2007, 09:41 PM   #32
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Been a while, and it seems like the (now old) electrical problenms are finally waning. full power this weekend and even ran the microwave! Splicing a 10 guage extension made quite a difference - even on the 200ft run.

This time around, the fuse connections were loose and when i rotated one, voila! All the power went on and stayed on! Voiltage up in the 16 range at one point. I'd never seen that before, but we had lights on, speakers playing and even the vent blowing - not a problem. If anyone has any advice on scoring the fuse connections or some way to keep them live, that would be nice.

Since then, we've conquered our ant invasion (exterminator) and the nasty stink in the bathroom (just a clog), but I was wondering about that intellivolt. It's buzzing like mad in there and I'd like to use the stereo without all the fuzz presently involved. can you give me your price on that (I have the '84 International) and let me know if you think it'll solve the problem?

Also, and this is an open question, is there any decent alternative to those darn flexsteeel sofabeds? I have the unique displeasure of sleeping right on the bar and even on a thick piece of memory foam, all I remember is the lousy night sleep I had...

Thanks,

Josh aka 'streamer
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Old 10-08-2007, 05:14 AM   #33
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16v is very high and not good for the battery or bulb life. there are spray electrical contact cleaners and steel wool but i'll let some of the others say what works best. a poor contact might be the cause of the high charge rate. disconnect the shore power, clean the battery connections and check the battery water levels. the 'buzz' varies by the load on the 'univolt'.
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Old 10-12-2007, 10:56 PM   #34
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I'm going to check it out this weekend, but i think a new univolt is in order and i'll definitely investigate the contact cleaners. Thanks!
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Old 10-20-2007, 08:14 PM   #35
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I have a '72 Overlander. I am planning on taking all the wiring out and strictly running AC. Can anyone explain the pros and cons of going in this direction? THANKS
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Old 10-20-2007, 09:35 PM   #36
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no brakes in a breakaway situation.
no lights before hooking up to a landline.
a few control panels use 12v (heat, a/c, fridge)
i'm sure there are more things.
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Old 10-20-2007, 11:23 PM   #37
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In May of 2006 we bought a 81 Excella II. When we brought it home and got set up we turned on the stereo and all we got was a buzz. Since it had set in a barn for 10 years I thought that there was a bad connection with the stereo. We changed the batteries after about three weeks of ownership and the buzz in the stereo went away. About a year later the buzz came back about the same time the univolt decided to cook both batteries and commit suicide. At that point we installed an intellipower 9200 and two new batteries. Since then the 12v has been at a top level and we have had no issues.
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Old 10-21-2007, 08:20 AM   #38
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Hey Richinny; Are you saying that the trailer brakes would not work if you went to AC ? I was told that I want to consider going to stricly AC. Any more advice would be greatly appreciated. THANKS
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Old 10-21-2007, 08:57 AM   #39
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when you're towing along the road, if your trailer takes a different route, the electric brakes should activate. The brakes will need the battery power in the trailer to work.

you should start a seperate post to go into more detail as to what you want to do and how you will be using the trailer.
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Old 10-21-2007, 10:30 AM   #40
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Re-wiring an Airstream

I am new to the Aistream forums. I am completely remodeling a '72 Overlander and I am doing away with the gas and going straight electical, since I am not going to be boondocking. Can I do everything in AC and get rid of all those wires that are in the camper or do I need DC as well? Any and all adive would be welcome.

Bob
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Old 10-21-2007, 10:37 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doglickfarms
I am new to the Aistream forums. I am completely remodeling a '72 Overlander and I am doing away with the gas and going straight electical, since I am not going to be boondocking. Can I do everything in AC and get rid of all those wires that are in the camper or do I need DC as well? Any and all adive would be welcome.

Bob
You will need D/C for things like vent fans, refer control panels, water heater controls, tank sensors, etc.

My opinion is to run your wire for your electric appliances and install a good converter for the 12v side such as the intellipower.

Your resale value will be much much less with out the 12v in there. Even if you didn't want to use it I would leave it.

My .02
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