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Old 01-08-2004, 08:16 AM   #15
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Thanks! I'm printing all of this out for a friend that knows electricity to look over. I hope it's an easy fix.

Are the most common problems with connections? I'm worried that something inside the walls might be the issue.
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Old 01-08-2004, 10:50 AM   #16
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Quote:
You will need to use the 30 amp if you wish to run the AC.
Rather let's say -- You will ruin the compressor on your AC if you try to run it off of a house circuit with an adaptor. This would be very expensive to replace.

If you wish to use your trailer for occasional guests and want to use the AC, speak to an electrician about installing a 30A circuit. No surprise -- you won't need an adaptor for that!
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Old 01-11-2004, 07:21 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally posted by davidz71

Try running your 15 amp plug to a wall receptacle inside the house (other than the bathroom) which usually is not a GFI circuit and see what happens.
Hi Craig..... I finally had a chance to run an extension cord from my livingroom wall to the trailer. The extension cord plug had a flash from within the plug as I hooked it up to the adapter.
The little green light on my charge wizard blinked twice the usual speed. I unpluged the cord and checked the fuses in the trailer and my home. Nothing blew. Little green light went back to the slow blink. I didn't touch the outside of the trailer to see if I'd get zapped.

I didn't plug anything in to see if I had juice at the trailer outlets. Is a short still a possibility?
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Old 01-11-2004, 07:44 PM   #18
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Where is FrankR when I need him. Diana, I don't want you to do anything that would get you hurt. Go to the hardware store and buy a Receptacle Tester (they are cheap). You plug it into one of your 110 volt receptacles that you can see through your open coach door. Make sure all your breakers are turned on. Plug in the power cord/extension cord inside the house and go back to the trailer. Without touching the trailer you should be able to see the indicator lights on the tester. There is a red light and 2 amber lights. Compare which lights are on and the diagnosis is listed on the card. My GB Instruments tester shows that if 2 amber indicator lights are showing then the receptacle is wired correctly. Other faults such as ground contact not connected, neutral contact not connected, hot contact not connected, hot and ground interchanged, and last, hot and neutral interchanged. I keep one of these plugged into the same receptacle as my converter but can move it about the trailer at any time. I did check every single receptacle in the trailer.

This is really quite simple as far as determining if something is wrong with your system and does not get you electrocuted (as long as you don't get your finger caught between the plug and receptacle when you plug the extension cord into the house).
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Old 01-11-2004, 07:45 PM   #19
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If the circuit breaker for the living room outlet did not trip, you do not have a short between hot and neutral or ground. The flash when you plugged in was normal.

That does NOT necessarily mean that you do not have neutral and ground improperly connected in the trailer. It appears that you do since it is tripping the Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI), what you referred to as the little fuse on the other outlet you first tried. This is something for someone who knows about electricity and residential wiring to work on. They just have to know that neutral and ground are NOT interconnected in an RV.

If you don't have the documentation for your Charge Wizard, one of our fellow RVers has scanned his and put it on-line in a PDF document here:

http://www.klenger.net/arctic-fox/charge-wizard.pdf

This will tell you want the flashing lights mean and what happens when you push the buttons.

Hope this helps,
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Old 01-11-2004, 07:59 PM   #20
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Thumbs up

Thanks, guys! I'll pick up a tester tomorrow. It's beginning to look like something not being wired right. I have a friend that knows electricity, but it's a bear trying to coordinate a time to meet.
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Old 01-11-2004, 08:11 PM   #21
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An outlet tester won't identify neutral tied to ground when it shouldn't be. That's "normal" in residential wiring.

It won't hurt to use it to make sure lines aren't swapped though.
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Old 01-11-2004, 08:17 PM   #22
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I e-mailed a link to this thread to my electrical friend. If all else fails, I made an appointment at the RV repair shop for Friday. If I can't get this straightened out by then, I'll take it in and get it done.

The final hurdle before the trip!
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Old 01-11-2004, 08:19 PM   #23
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Good point RoadKingMoe,
That is exactly what a factory maintenance man did to correct what he thought was a problem with my fuse box. Tying a jumper from neutral to ground is part of what was tripping my GFI breakers in the garage.

Diana, didn't you say you got a service manual with your trailer? If so, have someone take the breaker box cover off and compare the wiring (unplugged of course). The maintenance guy didn't even tell me that he had wired in the jumper but it was evident when I compared the schematic in my manual.
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Old 01-11-2004, 08:34 PM   #24
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Nope, no manual. There's a fusebox in the closet with three switches. One looks like the main breaker and two smaller ones.

I appreciate everyone's patience. It seems like the older I get the less I know. I'm sure in a few years programming a VCR will be beyond me.....oh wait....it already is!!!
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Old 01-11-2004, 08:40 PM   #25
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Diana,
You will be surprised at how much you learn about the operation of your trailer and it's systems. I learned something new today about Argosys only 2 yrs. older than my trailer that I didn't know. You'll be telling yourself, "Oh, that's how it works!" before you know it.
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