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Old 05-27-2016, 12:03 PM   #29
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I am interested. How much?
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Old 05-27-2016, 03:48 PM   #30
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Yeah, seems kinda simple but I guess I am wondering where all these 50 Amp trailers come from? I am reading a online Owners Manual for the AS International models and all of them have 30 Amp. Maybe people are converting to 50 Amp?



Really green to all this, just ordered our 2017 23FB last week and trying to learn as much as I can prior to delivery.

First off, congrats on the purchase and welcome!

50 amp Airstream trailers have two heat pumps on the roof vs one. Quite useful in hotter climates for better air conditioning.
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Old 05-27-2016, 04:01 PM   #31
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What appliances and devices are most susceptible to damage from a power surge or incorrectly wired pedestal?
There are several threads on the subject and perhaps some answers on this thread too but I'll take a stab at addressing some of the common thoughts:

A true power surge/spike can cause problems with almost any electrical device. Think of a lightning strike for instance. I think the Progressive unit protects against this.

An ungrounded outlet or mis-wired outlet (floating neutral) can be a safety problem. In some cases the entire shell of the trailer can become energized. This usually exhibits itself by presenting the occupant with a slight tingle when touching the shell of the trailer. I've experienced this myself.

Low voltage can kill an air conditioner. While I don't know this for absolute fact I have read quite a few articles on this web site and others to know low voltage is not good for AC compressor circuits. On our trailer, when the voltage is low, the AC unit sounds different and seems to "labor." The Progressive unit turns off when the voltage is too low (and too high).
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Old 05-27-2016, 04:35 PM   #32
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A true power surge/spike can cause problems with almost any electrical device. .
What about circuit boards, microwaves, TV, 12v DC> 120v AC inverters and charging laptop computers? Are any of these particularly susceptible to damage from surges, or polarity problems?

The reason I am asking is I am using more electronics than in the past but no where near the electronic bells and whistles i newer units.
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Old 05-27-2016, 05:37 PM   #33
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What about circuit boards, microwaves, TV, 12v DC> 120v AC inverters and charging laptop computers? Are any of these particularly susceptible to damage from surges, or polarity problems
Any and all of the above could be damaged by faulty shore power. At a minimum, before hooking up to shore power I'd recommend a simple polarity and voltage check. These checkers are pretty cheap.

After that, a surge protector should protect those systems from an errant "blast" of whatever comes down the line, or from a significant drop in voltage (by disconnecting you from shore power until voltage climbs back up to an acceptable level). In our view it's certainly worthwhile insurance.

At the extreme careful end, we also use a voltage regulator which helps protect our heat pump from voltage sags by regulating that voltage and keeping it at an acceptable level even during many voltage droops that could otherwise cause a surge protector to cut power until the problem is resolved. This is particularly useful for folks who might have a pet in the trailer on a warm day while they are out and about. Given the scenario you describe (no mention of AC or pets), that's probably more than you need at the moment.
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Old 05-27-2016, 07:30 PM   #34
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You might want to also check to see if you have a floating ground on your generator, if so you will need a special plug the Progressive Industries sells. Check it out. Dave
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Old 05-27-2016, 08:32 PM   #35
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You might want to also check to see if you have a floating ground on your generator, if so you will need a special plug the Progressive Industries sells. Check it out. Dave
I use one Honda 2000si and a 2nd when I need AC. I have assumed this juice is clean enough so I don't need a surge protector?? Anybody know about this floating ground thing?
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Old 05-27-2016, 08:53 PM   #36
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Good point. My comments were based on using campground-based shore power.
Like you, I'd assume your generator's power is cleaner and thus safer.
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Old 05-27-2016, 11:44 PM   #37
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I use one Honda 2000si and a 2nd when I need AC. I have assumed this juice is clean enough so I don't need a surge protector?? Anybody know about this floating ground thing?
That's actually a lack of a neutral to ground bond, which is required at a single point ONLY in any 120VAC system. Your shore power has it at the main breaker box. Quality inverters like Magnum and Victron have it by action of a specific relay within the inverter that bonds the neutral and ground only when inverting 120VAC from your batteries, BUT MOST SMALL GENERATORS DO NOT!!!!

This is a simple fix. Either buy the correcting plug from Progressive Dynamics OR make one yourself. Get a 20 amp grounded male plug at a hardware or big box store. Connect a 12 AWG wire between the ground lug (green screw) and the neutral lug (white screw). Re-assemble the plug and insert it into one of the generator's 120VAC receptacles and your done! You are now to code.........
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Old 05-28-2016, 05:13 AM   #38
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That's actually a lack of a neutral to ground bond, which is required at a single point ONLY in any 120VAC system. Your shore power has it at the main breaker box. Quality inverters like Magnum and Victron have it by action of a specific relay within the inverter that bonds the neutral and ground only when inverting 120VAC from your batteries, BUT MOST SMALL GENERATORS DO NOT!!!!

This is a simple fix. Either buy the correcting plug from Progressive Dynamics OR make one yourself. Get a 20 amp grounded male plug at a hardware or big box store. Connect a 12 AWG wire between the ground lug (green screw) and the neutral lug (white screw). Re-assemble the plug and insert it into one of the generator's 120VAC receptacles and your done! You are now to code.........
Sorry if you have answered this in another thread, but does the generator chassis also have to be grounded to earth with a copper rod? And does this depend on the generator size/design?

Also to tag on another question -- apologies -- any idea if the fan noise in waldosgone's new FC20 is from their Progressive charger/converter upgrade? [which we are also considering]

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f516...rs-127845.html

Thanks as always for your expert advice and willingness to share it with us here. Have a good weekend!

Peter
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Old 05-28-2016, 09:36 AM   #39
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Trailer amperage?

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Buy the one that matches the amperage of your trailer.
What does that mean? I thought if you installed a 30 amp converter you had, by definition, a "30-amp trailer". If you installed a 40 amp converter, you had, by definition, a "40-amp trailer" and so on and so forth. No? A trailer's amperage is defined by something other than the capacity of the on-board converter?
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Old 05-28-2016, 09:52 AM   #40
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Ah, yes indeed.

The two amperage are measuring different things.

The first is for how any amps of AC power your trailer can draw via the shore power inlets.

The second is how many DC amps your converter can handle. Many Airstream converters, like the one in our trailer, are 50-amp units.

Thus, our trailer is a 30 amp trailer when discussing how much AC power it can pull via the shore power inlets, and a 50 amp trailer when discussing how many DC amps the converter can handle.

In this thread I'm pretty sure we were discussing AC amps drawn from shore power inlets.

So it's a bit confusing, but they are two completely different things. Hope that helps.
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Old 05-29-2016, 11:51 PM   #41
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Sorry if you have answered this in another thread, but does the generator chassis also have to be grounded to earth with a copper rod? And does this depend on the generator size/design?

Also to tag on another question -- apologies -- any idea if the fan noise in waldosgone's new FC20 is from their Progressive charger/converter upgrade? [which we are also considering]

http://www.airforums.com/forums/f516...rs-127845.html

Thanks as always for your expert advice and willingness to share it with us here. Have a good weekend!

Peter
The grounding rod is the final safety in the event of a lost neutral. ALL generators should have their chassis connected to a grounding rod or other similar grounding device (like a cold water pipe coming up from the earth) as you will see s marked lug for this purpose on any portable generator made today. This statement is a bit of a conundrum given that many water systems used are plastic, and we all know that plastic just ain't conductive!!!

So yes, to be in compliance, a neutral-to-ground bond (which will also let all of your GFCI circuits work) and an independent grounding source for the generator chassis are both highly desirable.
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Old 05-30-2016, 04:42 AM   #42
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. . .
So yes, to be in compliance, a neutral-to-ground bond (which will also let all of your GFCI circuits work) and an independent grounding source for the generator chassis are both highly desirable.
Thanks, we ordered the Progressive PT30C plug to strengthen the electrical chain, but not sure about banging a copper rod into the ground for each generator location!

Do many RV users (incl. self) actually do this, assuming the campground pipes are indeed plastic?

Would a 24" copper rod be better than nothing? It could live in our rear storage area along with the various cords and hoses. What AWG made-up cord would suffice to connect to the gen?

Thanks,

Peter






PS -- here is a 4' copper clad rod: http://www.amazon.com/eDragon-4-Feet...ound+rod+clamp

And this kit: http://www.amazon.com/Copper-Groundi...JD1BKZY9MH8NBZ

And a smaller unit for one outlet I guess? http://www.amazon.com/Ground-Smart-E...V976CS992B5D79

Does anyone use something like this for the gen location, assuming no CG copper piping?
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